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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2013, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by robyyo View Post
I think that proves it. A forged bottom end isn't necessary. I'm going to stick with the stock 305, keep the tuning right and see what kind of performance I get.
I agree, especially for a first time try with a turbo. That thread about the 'grenade' is absolutely crazy. I know it made me feel better about trying an 8-10 psi setup.

Check this out, http://www.junkyardturbos.com/Rear-M...wholesale.com/ a pretty low budget way to pick up some HP on the cheap and easy.

I believe that the you should spend your money on a quality BOV and wastegate (no ebay $60 units) like Tial and save your engine upgrades until after you get the turbo setup running on mild boost. I would also recommend some form of AFR sensor to eliminate all of the guessing.

Like AP mentioned a couple of pages back, start the boost low and creep it up slowly. It will allow you to learn how to get the tune right without breaking. And if the worst happens, 305 are cheap and plentiful.

Good Luck.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2013, 07:36 PM
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I wouldn't worry about pricey bov's and waste gates, spend it on fuel. If you insist on running gas start with 100 or 110 for prelim tuning, or just go with an e85 system. Avoiding detonation is key and fuel is the cheapest way to do that. Inter oiling helps too and also gives you a denser charge when you get into higher boost levels.

AVOID detonation at all costs! Most important thing to making it work.
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2013, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ap72 View Post
I wouldn't worry about pricey bov's and waste gates, spend it on fuel. If you insist on running gas start with 100 or 110 for prelim tuning, or just go with an e85 system. Avoiding detonation is key and fuel is the cheapest way to do that. Inter oiling helps too and also gives you a denser charge when you get into higher boost levels.

AVOID detonation at all costs! Most important thing to making it work.
+1

Like ap said, make sure your full of good fuel before you the key the first time, unless your versed in HP tuners or some form of stand alone management its going to need too be tuned, on a dyno. There are several guys on thirdgen that can direct you to a safe "mail order" tune to get it up and running on the dyno, race gas is going to be your safety net and make sure you use it. Once you have a safe conservitive tune on the dyno get it out on the street and do some data logging. Dyno's are a great tool but cannot factor in all the variables of real life drive cycles. Once you have some street time and collected enough data to be comfortable using high octane pump gas (92+) then you can make your adjustments with timing and boost in very small increments. There isn't a lot of room for mistakes so don't get greedy. The urge to up the boost and let it eat will be strong.....ignore it.....be smart and you should be able to easily surpass your hp goals and live a long happy life.
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Old 10-03-2013, 11:45 PM
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Megasquirt.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2013, 12:18 AM
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The more I look at turbocharging the more I'm amazed at what you can do with these things. It's like all the conventional engine building goes out the window, all you need to do is stick a hair dryer on a stock motor, tune and go.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2013, 12:25 AM
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not exactly
at 8 pounds boost you could have 1.5 times what you had with no boost
IE: 300 horse motor becomes 450 hp

160 HP motor becomes 240 hp
start with good engine and the difference is more
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2013, 10:15 AM
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I have no problems with your choice to stay 305. They are cheap and plenty. My c10 has a 305 that is supercharged. Did 5 psi and 9 psi setup for daily truck driving 0-5500 rpm. Performer cam with vortec heads and 3000ish stall. Makes more than enough smiles. Do not over cam, keep it in the operating range, and figure your compression ratio.

If you are racing, staying with the 305 is a little silly, but whatever.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2013, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by spinn View Post
I have no problems with your choice to stay 305. They are cheap and plenty. My c10 has a 305 that is supercharged. Did 5 psi and 9 psi setup for daily truck driving 0-5500 rpm. Performer cam with vortec heads and 3000ish stall. Makes more than enough smiles. Do not over cam, keep it in the operating range, and figure your compression ratio.

If you are racing, staying with the 305 is a little silly, but whatever.
No I'm not really planning on racing with it, just a healthy street machine with some grunt, but not overdone.
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 08:42 AM
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Vortec 305 with twin turbos on a 0411 PCM.

GM Performance :: View topic - 98 GMC Twin Turbo with 12200411 PCM--- It's Alive

peace
Hog
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 01:18 PM
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i dont have time to read the whole thread but i did read a few posts but im going to chime in anyways

if the engine has a tpi intake on it u want a cam thats
218/218 @ 50
the goto turbo cam for the 350 tpi guys is the summit 224/224 but with a smaller engine the cams act larger

being as the tpi will have a slightly higher rpm range on the 305 u may be able to get away with the 224/224 summit cam , my good friend currently has a 305 tpi turbo build on thirdgen.org and is using a cam slightly larger then that

for a turbo pick up a ebay gt45 its cheap dead reliable and will make way more power then u want.
im not a fan of the ebay headers at all but if u cant weld up ur own set they are the cheapest way to go to get u into the turbo game.

i have personally had a few sets of the ebay sbc single turbo headers in my hands from friends who have bought them. out fo the box they will work but the welding is horrible on them. all my friends brought them to me for me to clean them up and reweld a few sections.

if u go this route bring them to a local welding shop and have them clean up the welding and slag left around the inside of the turbo flange and they will be fine for a year or 2

for a bov get an ebay rfl bov for 35$'s theese are simple piston type valves with one moving part , they work flawlessly and do not leak nor can they every break

for an intercooler setup the ebay kits work great ive used theese kist on tons of cars , for a camaro u want the kit that has the 32x12x4 with 3 inch in and outlets bar and plate intercooler that comes witht he 3inch aluminum tubing coupler and clamps.

megasquirt is a great choice its what i run on mine

lastly u will need to do some fuel system upgrades , a walboro 255lph pump should be fine for u as it will support around 500whp
and u will want 50 or 60# injectors


one very import part of this whole thing if u want it to live is the top ring gaps in the pistons, if they are setup for na the rings will butt together and break under boost, even if the engine is used u need to pull the heads and check the ring gap .007 to .008 per inch of bore is a good place to start with the ring gap

Last edited by Project89; 10-07-2013 at 01:25 PM. Reason: added ring gap information
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 03:29 PM
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Im not having ring gap issues. That I know of anyways. We cut the base of the exhaust manifold and weld the T flange on. The stock cast manifolds work awesome, and welds hold fine ( been over 18 months).

How much boost are running, that might be the problem.
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 04:05 PM
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Im not having ring gap issues. That I know of anyways. We cut the base of the exhaust manifold and weld the T flange on. The stock cast manifolds work awesome, and welds hold fine ( been over 18 months).

How much boost are running, that might be the problem.
it depends on how much boost u run , at only a few psi stock ring gaps are perfectly fine , unless u dont have an intercooler then they could be come a problem

even if the plan is only to run a few psi i still like to open the ring gaps , because as most of us know boost is adictive and theres always the urge/itch to turn the boost up , opening the ring gap up when u first start lets u turn up the boost in the future if u so desire
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 04:07 PM
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this is what happens when u get the urge to up the boost with a stock ring gap


that happened at a measly 12 psi

it broke the top ring the ring land and finally the second ring
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2013, 04:12 PM
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I ve used the 8 pound spring before, but leave the 6 in. I have used the 9 psi pulley on the blowers. I set the stuff I build to work at 4-6 , real nice smooth performance.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:14 PM
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I ve used the 8 pound spring before, but leave the 6 in. I have used the 9 psi pulley on the blowers. I set the stuff I build to work at 4-6 , real nice smooth performance.
yeah thats considered very mild boost when it comes to a turbo at those levels i would trust stock gaps as long as the tune is in check
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