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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2012, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod and Custom
Smart Craftsmen learn from the mistakes of others.


I hope you cross-measured the existing cowl to be sure it's square. The time to correct that is before attaching the new metal.

From the beginning of any project, it's important to establish a level line from front to rear, and a correct centerline.

Without the basic reference lines, it's easy to get lost.

I think we all know most of this, you just kinda forget about it

sometimes we all need a refresher course

I think my head will explode sometimes


thanks guys, that why I started this thread

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2012, 08:13 PM
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II think most of us are just bored because its too dang cold out to play with our own cars ...I'm hearing a lot of good ideas though ,just keep in mind its just a firewall and with all those bends and beads you shouldnt have much trouble at all with warpage,and if you do remember two things....it can be fixed with a little bondo and since its only seen with the hood open its a perfect place to learn welding and filler techniques so no bid deal ....NOW ,if you put a ford motor in there I guarantee nobody will notice the fire wall even if you warped the crap out of it and painted over unground welds ................
.....Just sayin........
relax and enjoy the work9or the learning process, even if you screw it up completely its no big deal ,by the time you get to the exterior you'll be an expert.
I guess what I'm sayin is even if you have to slam the doors twice to get them to close and you have a 200.00 econo paint job its still a really cool car and driving it will put an ear to ear grin on your face every time......
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2012, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman
I guess what I'm sayin is even if you have to slam the doors twice to get them to close and you have a 200.00 econo paint job its still a really cool car and driving it will put an ear to ear grin on your face every time......
kinda the way I feel about it
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2012, 09:14 PM
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BTW.......I was just kiddin about the ford motor,,,
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:18 PM
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BUTTTTTT....six 2bbl Strombergs or a blower will accomplish the same.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-21-2012, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
BTW.......I was just kiddin about the ford motor,,,
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
BUTTTTTT....six 2bbl Strombergs or a blower will accomplish the same.
the first step, will be just a plain ole 496 with RPM Air Gap and EZ-EFI on it

but the long range goal will be a tunnel ram with dual EZ EFI (that should be distracting enough)


but I need to weld on the firewall first
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:45 PM
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yea Matt. i go with the trial everything - or at least all the front together from the A posts forward. i understand the need to keep the momentum going, but it's discouraging to have to re-do - or worse spoil something to make something else fit...
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Old 01-25-2012, 01:48 PM
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...and if you have to fit the firewall, leave it tacked. it's easier to cut the welds if you can still see the edges
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2012, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 350bmw
yea Matt. i go with the trial everything - or at least all the front together from the A posts forward. i understand the need to keep the momentum going, but it's discouraging to have to re-do - or worse spoil something to make something else fit...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 350bmw
...and if you have to fit the firewall, leave it tacked. it's easier to cut the welds if you can still see the edges
I know better, I was just all excited with seeing some progress, and my brain slipped into neutral
I didnt even do any welding, I just screwed it on and walked away
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-25-2012, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 350bmw
...and if you have to fit the firewall, leave it tacked. it's easier to cut the welds if you can still see the edges
I always use drill screws to assemble everything then take it all apart and start welding when I know everything is going to fit....It's quick and its ez...and any problems your going to run into will show up then ,all you gotta do is unscrew something and screw it back together.....

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Old 01-25-2012, 11:04 PM
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Fitted from the back like stock and button hole welded.
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by la4dice
Fitted from the back like stock and button hole welded.
hey, la4dice, do you have any more pics of your project?
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Old 01-26-2012, 12:10 PM
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Here's another tip. If you use screws, filling the holes later can get to be a problem. Welding them up can cause warpage and sometimes you end up chasing the holes around. Since I was a young bodyman, I've always soldered up small diameter holes (3/16" or smaller). I use a 400 watt soldering gun and Rosin core solder. Don't use acid core. To prep the hole I use a ball mill cutter for a Dremel tool. That bevels the topside and cleans the metal. And it makes it round. Then stick the hot tinned tip in the hole and add solder. Twisting the soldering iron spreads the ball of solder around the perimeter. Once the solder is in full contact, add a little more as you pull the tip out of the hole. That leaves a nicely rounded mound that can be ground or filed flush, and voila, the hole is gone with no warpage whatsoever. If you don't get enough solder in the hole, just re-heat and add more.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts37chev
hey, la4dice, do you have any more pics of your project?
I do. Mostly of fabbing the floor and installing rockers at this point. I see where your rockers have the curve to the front and rear post area. What company? The ones I used were *****in Products. They were straight. You have to fab the turns.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2012, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by la4dice
I do. Mostly of fabbing the floor and installing rockers at this point. I see where your rockers have the curve to the front and rear post area. What company? The ones I used were *****in Products. They were straight. You have to fab the turns.
wow thats a good looking job on that floor

my firewall and front floor are Direct Sheetmetal pieces (i was told they made some of 8!tch3ns' parts)
and all my other repair parts are made by EMS

I have links to their websites in this "official 37 & 38 chevy thread" I started , for us to share info and pics, just talk about these cool old chevys
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