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Old 12-21-2010, 06:53 PM
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wanting to build 355 or 383 need suggestions

Hello,

I have a 350 sbc with stock heads yet, dont have any other parts on it yet.
Just got it for free today.

I was wanting to bulid a 355 or a 383

But its a 2 bolt, and im wantin to put it in my 84 blazer which has a 350 in it now. Truck has 38" swampers on it with 9" lift.

And im wanting to now if i make a 355 or 383 out of the engine will a 2 bolt hold up.
Guy who gave me the block spun a bearing on the crank.
Only took the pan off to look inside. just in case the crank is to bad i have 2 extras out of a different engine. let me no what u think

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Old 12-21-2010, 07:48 PM
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the difference in strength between a factory 2 bolt and a factory 4 bold is little or none. i have worked in a machine shop for about 5 years now and we personally choose the two bold blocks over the four bold blocks. if you compare the two blocks side by side you will see that the mains have thicker webbing on the two bolt. we turn these engines 7500 rpm on a dirt track on a very regular basis. as far as stroking one goes your fine as long as you keep it under 6000 rpm, and if it is a four wheel drive you most likely will. if your insistent on four bolt mains i would take a two bolt and convert it to a four bold with aftermarket mains. you dont need buillet, good after market mains are good enough.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:13 PM
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ok thanks, ill just stick with keepin it a 2 bolt then. it will only be driven a few times a month anyway. if i get the heads port and polished is there anything i would have to change. and wat would be a good size carb for a 355/383
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327TransAm
the difference in strength between a factory 2 bolt and a factory 4 bold is little or none. i have worked in a machine shop for about 5 years now and we personally choose the two bold blocks over the four bold blocks. if you compare the two blocks side by side you will see that the mains have thicker webbing on the two bolt. we turn these engines 7500 rpm on a dirt track on a very regular basis. as far as stroking one goes your fine as long as you keep it under 6000 rpm, and if it is a four wheel drive you most likely will. if your insistent on four bolt mains i would take a two bolt and convert it to a four bold with aftermarket mains. you dont need buillet, good after market mains are good enough.
I find a lot of the first half of this statement erroneous. How many 6000+rpm/400hp+ 383's have you done in 2 bolt mains?? The 2 bolt cap has less surface in contact with the main webs of the block than a 4 bolt cap, the 2 bolt will show signs of distress at the cap/block interface if over 400hp is made(cap walk) leading to it tearing up the bottom of the cap and block where they meet(microwelding).

I agree the 2 bolt converted to splayed 4 bolt is the best, but a stock 2 bolt is not stronger than a stock 4 bolt. Otherwise, GM never would have spent the money to tool up for 4 bolt in the first place.

If you are only doing 2 bolt 350's with stock stroke you may not be seeing any cap walk, but get into a longer stroke and it will show up on 2-bolt 350 blocks. I know, I've seen it, and what the bearings look like when it exists.
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Old 12-21-2010, 08:34 PM
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is there kits to make it into a 4 bolt, then i could just get the holes drilled and tapped at a machine shop
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WHITExTRASH
is there kits to make it into a 4 bolt, then i could just get the holes drilled and tapped at a machine shop
It takes more than that, the caps have to be fittetd to the block cap regiaters, the bolt holes drilled and tapped, and then the new caps and block align bored then align honed to correct size.

A $500 operation in my neck of the woods to do this, only worth it if you are adding splayed caps and going racing with it, high rpm or 550+ hp. Otherwise just get a stock 4 bolt block to start with.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:12 PM
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you can disagree if you wish but i am speaking from experience. 90 percent of the blocks we build are 2 bolts. when we come across a 4 bolt we grab it up but only because there are people out there that insist on having one. as i stated before look at the webbing differences for yourself. the only factory 4 bolt that i really like is the famed mexico block. the webbing is as thick as a two bolt but it also used 4 bolt mains. when you find 4 bolt blocks that have failed the mains crack between the two bolt holes on one side and down into the block. long story short i am not saying a 4 bolt block is bad, i am just saying that the two bolt gets a bad rap and i prefer it. As for how many 400 hp 383s have i been involved with building? 3 last year and one the year before. also built a small block 406 for a mud dragger. 680hp 720torque with CNC ported heads. 7500 rpm out of a factory prepared two bold block and still running strong for two seasons now.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
It takes more than that, the caps have to be fittetd to the block cap regiaters, the bolt holes drilled and tapped, and then the new caps and block align bored then align honed to correct size.

A $500 operation in my neck of the woods to do this, only worth it if you are adding splayed caps and going racing with it, high rpm or 550+ hp. Otherwise just get a stock 4 bolt block to start with.
ok thats more than i want to spend on it since i need a different carb and intake yet. ill just stick with the 2 bolt and if it doesnt last then o well. ill just bulid a better bigger one.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327TransAm
you can disagree if you wish but i am speaking from experience. 90 percent of the blocks we build are 2 bolts. when we come across a 4 bolt we grab it up but only because there are people out there that insist on having one. as i stated before look at the webbing differences for yourself. the only factory 4 bolt that i really like is the famed mexico block. the webbing is as thick as a two bolt but it also used 4 bolt mains. when you find 4 bolt blocks that have failed the mains crack between the two bolt holes on one side and down into the block. long story short i am not saying a 4 bolt block is bad, i am just saying that the two bolt gets a bad rap and i prefer it. As for how many 400 hp 383s have i been involved with building? 3 last year and one the year before. also built a small block 406 for a mud dragger. 680hp 720torque with CNC ported heads. 7500 rpm out of a factory prepared two bold block and still running strong for two seasons now.
400 2 bolt is a whole different animal, I know. The 400 2 bolt caps are just as long as 350 4 bolt caps, so they have a good amount contact with the block, they are stable(very similar to 2 bolt BBC caps). Done a couple 600hp+ 350 block nitroused 383's with 2 bolt caps and learned my lesson, the caps move around a bunch at the interface, even with a girdle on them. Drag cars with Transbrakes

Just a question, not dogging on you...do you know what signs of cap walk look like an the caps and block?? Most guys don't, thats why I ask.
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Old 12-22-2010, 08:01 AM
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i must admit that i dont know these signs. i will have to look into this, and since our engines are usually dirt track we dont run nos. good chance i spoke out of turn. thanks for the food for thought and i will certainly look into the subject more keenly. thanks again
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327TransAm
i must admit that i dont know these signs. i will have to look into this, and since our engines are usually dirt track we dont run nos. good chance i spoke out of turn. thanks for the food for thought and i will certainly look into the subject more keenly. thanks again
It looks like random spotted areas of the cap and block colored with pencil lead, when looked at close you can see it is metal transfered back and forth between the cap and the block as the caps dance (chatter) around against the block. Proper term for this metal transfer is fretting, or microwelding.

Your right about 2 bolts being enough to hold things together, just that the 350 and under engines don't have enough cap surface(clamp area) in contact with the block to remain real stable and they wiggle around in spite of studs or good bolts. Doesn't happen so easily with 400 2-bolt or BBC 2 bolt because the caps have a footprint just as wide as a 4 bolt cap(possibly even better because no face material is lost to a set of outer bolt holes).

Internal balance makes a big difference here with the 2-bolt 350 cap, less force trying to wiggle things around. External balance 383 makes it really show up.
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Old 12-22-2010, 06:18 PM
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thanks for the explanation. that makes since. i really do appreciate it.
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