[eric32]

Hi folks well first post so I will try as best as possible. Sorry about all the questions. I currently have a 86 chevy s-10 with a 350 G1 small block. I have a pete jackson gear drive currently on my motor but it was fine for a while but now it has a lot of slop in it and don't know why.

I have not even put 10,000 miles on it and never expected it to go bad this quick but after reading searches in google I guess people have had this sort of problems with them. So I have found a full double roller timing chain from jegs that I want to use.

I myself have never built my own motor but have been supervised on putting together a shortblock and I have read a lot of tech articles to understand a lot of technical terms and what the different parts are etc. I am wanting to try to do this job myself since my dad is busy all the time and I am wanting to learn to do this sort of stuff.

I use an aluminum timing cover 1 piece along with a locking plate for my cam to help insure no loose bolts. Ok what I am needing help with is basically needing step by step instructions along with pictures if possible on how to do this. I have an idea but I need to buy some tools such as a harmonic balancer installer remover.


I don't have an air compressor so I will have to use plain old hand tools. Can all of this be done with hand tools? Also is it hard to getting the crank gear off? Also on the cam gear I know locktite is used to keep the cam bolts in place better and can it be loosend by hand? Also what I am also concerned about is proper endplay with the cam and i know it should be no more then .010 and it currently is fine with the gear drive but if I go to the timing chain will I have to check things again? Should I also get a new cam button? Also on my oil pan I have gasket maker for my front seal and don't use the rubber ones since they leak a lot. What is the best way to clean all of that off and will I have to loosen up any of my first couple of bolts on the pan to get my cover off?

I have read that some don't it just depends. Also I will have to torque everything back up and I have a torque wrench for all that and that is not a problem I just need torque specs for my timing cover,water pump,balancer,and the other stuff. Can anyone help lead me in the right direction?

Thanks for any help and info you might give.
Eric

[matt167]

Put engine on TDC cylinder #1... your going to have to drop the pan down a little to get the timing cover out just so you know.. once you get the cover off, remove the gear drive. install the timing set str8 up in the middle keyway. you can check the clearence if you feel the need to do so. put it all back togther. there is a little lip on the timing cover you can clip off, to make installation easier, it won't hurt anything.

[richard stewart 3rd]

Hi Eric,
I hope this article will help you,
Good luck,
Rich

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...ion/index.html
http://boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_sb.htm

[Double_v23]

This really isn't part of your question but 99% of the time when those timing gears go bad it is because they were installed incorrectly.

[eric32]

Well first of all thanks guys for you help I apprecaite it a bunch But I know the gear drive was installed correctly cause my dad was the one who built my engine. I just selected the parts. He has built motors for almost 30 years and he can do a chevy blindfold. For some reason it just went bad quickly for some reason. I have read on some other car forums that its happend to other people as well. I will have to save up my cash and possibly try to do it. Thanks again Eric

[Double_v23]

I don't doubt that your dad has skills with motors. And maybe the one he installed was the 1% that was just a bad one.

But all those other guys you read about installed theirs incorrectly, installing a timing chain correctly is a breeze, installing a gear drive correctly is a process that requires several hours, precision tools, and a milling machine. The problem is that you don't hear about the ones that go good because it is not an issue, you only hear about the bad.

Anyways, back to the original question, you will need a three jaw puller to remove the gear off of the crankshaft. To make the process a little easier you will want to purchase a timing set with a single keyway, from that point it is pretty easy, just press the gear on the crank line up the marks and bolt up the cam gear. Done.

[malc]

Timing Chain Installation by Comp Cams.

[hotrod66_57]

One of the most helpful things i've found for this sort of stuff is to get either a Haynes or Chilton's manual, like the ones they sell at autozone, for lets say 70's chevy pickups. They usually have them, and since the carbed small block has been basically the same animal for years the information should be spot on. It will give you all the torque specs and they've got detailed pictures and descriptions to go along with most of the stuff. (I am assuming that you have a carburetor of course, but the majority of the info will hold for either one, so long as the block is a gen 1. ) Most also have a whole section on overhauling the engine which again gives a step by step. Just a thought, it's what i did on my first engine to figure out some of the stuff. They make it a lot easier to teach your self and they're cheap.

You should be able to do more than well though with just what people have posted for you already, good luck!

hotrod

[70bird]

For the tools (balancer puller/installer & 3 jaw puller) you can rent these from Autozone to save you some $$. You give them a deposit and they give all your money back when you return the tool.

[406 bug]

with regard to the cam button - i assume you have a roller cam/ lifters , if not you don't need the cam button.

[dalesy]

If you follow the links given above, you shouldn't have any problems.

Not from personal experience, but the engine builder that did my sand drag car for me years ago said Pete Jackson gear drives were not very good quality. That may be why you had problems. He refused to even use them.

[eric32]

Thanks guys I appreciate the help. When I go to torque the crank and cam bolts how am I able to torque them when the cam and crank are going to want to move? Hope that does not sound stupid but they do turn when you tighten them up. I just want to be able to get a correct torque on it. Also I do have a roller cam so I will have too use a new cam button but what I am worried about it has the correct clearance now but if I chanage things will it be different? I am guessing it will and I don't have a dial indicator to check the clearance and would not know completely how to do it but I have ideas. Thanks folks I might try to do it. I know about how to line things up dot to dot or straight up.
Thanks
Eric

[carsavvycook]

There is a lot of good information given you on this thread that will help you.

As far as torquing your cam gear bolts, it should not turn the engine over. For torquing the balancer bolt you need to remove the cover for the torque converter and use a long screw driver or pry bar to hold the flywheel or flex plate from turning, while torquing the balancer bolt.

Oh by the way Welcome to hotrodders.com