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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2012, 07:51 PM
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I'm not worried about the stall, just trying to learn everything I can about the truck. It pulls hard down low so it should be pretty close to what is recommended for weight, cam, etc. Also, finally found the weight of the truck......3800lbs. At least it's the lighter of many full size trucks.

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Old 10-27-2012, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by jjack010 View Post
I'm not worried about the stall, just trying to learn everything I can about the truck. It pulls hard down low so it should be pretty close to what is recommended for weight, cam, etc. Also, finally found the weight of the truck......3800lbs. At least it's the lighter of many full size trucks.
Swap the heads for Vortecs, paying attention to the static and dynamic compression ratio and quench distance. Attention to details makes a LOT of difference in the final results.

Use a matching Vortec intake like the Edelbrock RPM. Keep the 750 carb. Use long tube headers w/dual exhaust w/a connector between the two sides aft of the collector and before the mufflers.

Recurve the distributor- this will help regardless of anything else you do.

See what the cam is that you now have. You could have a roller block- if so use a hydraulic roller cam and lifters if the cam needs to be changed from a flat tappet cam and lifters. You can pick up the lifters, dogbones, spider and cam retainer off eBay. Info on what blocks to look for is here.

If you want to double check the weight, take it down to the recyclers and weight it on a drive-on scale. Some dumps also have a scale available.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:27 AM
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I may actually look into that. I know nothing about vortec "stuff." Scared to take the plunge, but I continue to hear even a stock vortec head makes great power. So will everything else I have work with the vortec intake and heads.......distrubutor, carb, headers, etc?
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:49 AM
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What's a reasonable price to pay for a set of vortec 906's? Found some locally, guy says they are fresh from machine shop. Dang, they are a lot more expensive than the early heads.
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Old 10-28-2012, 12:52 AM
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call scoggin dickey the gm dealership and ask about the performance vortecs
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Old 10-28-2012, 05:46 AM
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Most of the used vortec heads floating around for sale are cracked. Thats why they are being sold off.
The good vortec heads that are not cracked are reused/rebuilt when the L-31 vortec truck motor
is rebuilt and put back into service. Good vortec heads rarely end up in the junk yard.
The junk ends up in the junk yard or on craigslist. (cracked fubared vortecs)

When buying used heads you need to be able to ID junk...
if it won't pass a mag check, whats it worth?

The reason there are so many cracked vortec heads around is the stock vortec motor had a cooling system problem.
that destroyed the heads.

Any used vortec head you are considering buying should be mag checked for cracks, BEFORE you pay.
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Old 10-28-2012, 08:04 PM
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Good advice, thanks. I installed a Moroso 4 hole 1in carb spacer that I've had sitting around for a while. I felt a noticable difference in seat of the pants power. Especially mid range. Hopefully Wednesday I can make time to install the roller rockers.

OH! And I finally looked at my engine casting number.............14016379. From my research- 350 1977 - 79 2 or 4 bolt main bearings. Are there any other stampings that would tell me 2 or 4 bolt main?
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjack010 View Post
Gave a shot at determining stall tonight. Brakes would hold til 1800rpm. I know that's not a real accurate way to measure since I'm not sure if that was the true stall speed or if the brakes just give at that point. I tried to get flash stall speed but it was damn hard by myself. I did record it and looked like 2200 but the tires were spinning. I'll try a few more runs tomorrow.
Drum brakes on the rear? Adjust the shoes out against the drum before leaning on the brake pedal.
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