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Old 10-15-2006, 07:48 PM
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Warpage! what to do.

I have welded in a 30" X 18" approx panel in a 56 truck (suburban, behind doors) with inner fenders. No access for banging the weld out as is suggested to omit warpage. So I took it easy. But got some bulging. I do not know if you call this shrinking or expansion or both. Will a shrinking disc help? What is a shrinking disc? does it rotate on your grinder or do you bang on it or what? Everyone (on Hotrodder) says it's a great tool that really works. What the hell is it? Never seen one. If this is what I need I will get one. I can not get a dolly behind the repaired area. It may be ok after filler, I dont know yet. But what should I do. thanks.

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Old 10-15-2006, 07:57 PM
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A shrinking disk goes on a grinder/sander. They use a rubber backing pad. I got mine off of evilbay for about $30. The sunchaser ones are probably better, but $$$$$$
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:13 PM
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Great, now how do they work? I mean what function do they perform and............do I need one?
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:19 PM
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Here is a lot of information on them:

metal shapers

Here is a video on how to use them:

video

Don't know if you need one or not. Read and watch and then decide.
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Old 10-16-2006, 12:26 AM
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Thanks BrianB. Still need to hear if I would get worse warpage if I used one in my case. that guy on that web site even tells how he makes them. At least I think I see what he does and where he gets the material. Looks easy to make your own. I think my metal is "stretched" and that the "shrinking" disc would reduce the bulges?

Last edited by bartamos; 10-16-2006 at 12:46 AM.
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Old 10-16-2006, 07:55 AM
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Those are links to my album and some unedited video of my disc.

The flat or low crowned discs actually work better than the sunchaser disc, and are far less expensive...they last longer as well.

However, your panel is shrunk from welding. You need to stretch the welds. Shrinking the bulges you have next to the welds might blend the shrink into the panel, but what will that do to the surrounding area? I'm guessing it will pull something that you do not want under tension. Better to figure out a way of getting at both sides the weld with a hammer and dolly than to indiscriminantly shrink.

John
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:14 AM
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John, when you say the flat discs work better, do they actually shrink more? Will you notice a difference if you were to have them side by side and shrink an area and then follow up with the flat disc and the flat disc would shrink something "missed" by the other?

I wonder because sometimes it doesn't seem like the ribbed on shrinks at all.

Brian
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:24 AM
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Can I hammer after grinding (carefully). My welds are pretty lumpy and some are big at the burn thru fill-ins. Partial grinding? Can't really gauge the full uneveness with the welds in the way.
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Old 10-16-2006, 09:32 AM
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Hi Brian,

I started making flat ones when Wray Schelin suggested that his sunchaser disc worked better as it got flatter and more worn out, and that a flat disc might work better. In my opinion, the ribs on the sunchaser tool do nothing but stiffen the disc up...no magic vibrations of the molecules as suggested on his site. The flat discs are stiffened by adding a saftey flange or by putting a low crown in them. I have done a side by side comparison (very short test) and from my obviously biased view, mine works better. By that I mean it shrinks faster, and lasts longer. This was not a scientific test, but i would be willing to participate in one. Claims of high rpms, magic ruffles, and fancy backup discs being required are bogus. It is all about friction. High rpm just make the heat build up faster than lower rpm.

If your sunchaser is not shrinking, you need to spend more time on the panel. It will certainly do a great job of shrinking. If the metal steams when quenched, it is shrinking. it is important to remember that you can shrink many times in the same spot if necessary.

By the way, I thought the video that came with the sunchaser was excellent, although Ken's idea of safety is not mine.

John
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Old 10-16-2006, 12:08 PM
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John,
Which would be the best all around best disk to get?
Low,high,flat?
I need one and it's mostly flat or slightly curved metal I work with.
Thanks,
Mike K.

As for hammering after grinding,it's ok and is a 'test" to your welds ability to hold.
I'd knock off the high spots first so the bead is fairly flat before doing ANY hammer work.Large lumps can distorte the way the metal "goes" and it's best to have the bead fairly uniform.
Sad thing is the basic of welding,You weld,it shrinks.
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Old 10-16-2006, 12:19 PM
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Respectfully, this thread was started by me to get help on my problem and to receive many ideas and suggestions. Please stick to the topic. it is getting to be a shrinking disc thread. I now know what one is and what it looks like and does. that takes care of that part of my question. I can not get to the back to hammer. Any other suggestions and analysis of my problem would be appreciated.
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Old 10-16-2006, 12:30 PM
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Hi Mike,

The low crowned disc is the most useful of all. It can do truly flat or mild reverse panels as well as high crown panels.

Bartamos, Threads tend to wander...it's the nature of conversation. If you can't reach the back side with a dolly, you might consider cutting away whatever is in the way to gain access, or pulling the low spots and filling.

John
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Old 10-16-2006, 01:10 PM
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thanks John, do you know if I can gring the welds down first, at least a little to get them flat before/if I hammer and dolly?
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Old 10-16-2006, 01:28 PM
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I'm sure John will get to this, but, yes, you can grind the Welds down. The challenge is to not grind to much (cause a lot of Heat) and shrink more.

Some guys like to use Flap Discs (CAREFULLY!) and grind them down-others will take a cut-off wheel (I stack two together)and grind them down-there are other ways too, but these are probably the most common- I use both-
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Old 10-16-2006, 04:59 PM
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Thanks 35window. I have ground them down on other areas and use my 4 1/2 with a thin disc and have learned to be slow and not create heat. But just to be sure, I am asking if I can grind them down BEFORE hammering or will that somehow mess up the whole idea of hammer stretching the area/welds?
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