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Old 01-21-2012, 10:53 AM
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warped....., so is my tailgate

Hi everyone. New to the site. Shaved and modified my sons Nissan tailgate. As usual for me, got impatient, auto darkening helmet went out, and .......warped the crap out of it. The welded panels are fine, its the areas below the panels that warped. Thought about cutting relief cuts, cut off wheel thickness, less coffee and more time between tacks. Seems to be a reasonable method. Any other suggestions? Looks like the waves of the ocean halfway across right now. Kinda pissed at myself. LOL, now...... damage control.

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Old 01-21-2012, 11:03 AM
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Heat dime sized spots with oxy/ acetlylene torch with brazing tip. Just do one spot at a time. Hammer and dolly flat and quench with sponge or wadded up rag and cold water. Very time consuming on a large panel, but it can be done. Don't get impatient with it or you will make it worse. Even if you can't get to the backside with a dolly, it can still be done, it just takes longer and a lighter touch with the body hammer.
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:08 AM
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they don't need to be shrunk, they need to be stretched. Prode and poke around to find where it's the most tightest and sunk in, then use a hammer and dolly to sandwich the metal and stretch it(if you can somehow get it in there) with some hammer blows. This will release it and raise it back up. Then hammer and dolly to straighten. Last, if you have a shrinking disk run that over it.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:29 PM
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Buy a new tailgate and start over. Seriously. Sometimes it's a lesson learned and the second time around it will be easier. What is your time worth to you? Tailgates can usually be found for 40-60 bucks.
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Old 01-22-2012, 12:50 AM
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www.car-part.com the wrecking yard interchange..

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Old 01-22-2012, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmc-10
Hi everyone. New to the site. Shaved and modified my sons Nissan tailgate. As usual for me, got impatient, auto darkening helmet went out, and .......warped the crap out of it. The welded panels are fine, its the areas below the panels that warped. Thought about cutting relief cuts, cut off wheel thickness, less coffee and more time between tacks. Seems to be a reasonable method. Any other suggestions? Looks like the waves of the ocean halfway across right now. Kinda pissed at myself. LOL, now...... damage control.
I appreciate the tips guys. Buying a new one,at the moment, not an option. It's personal now. Been doing this kinda stuff for 20 yrs or so for fun. I had forgotten how thin Japanese metal was.I knew better, just been a while since I shaved a handle on my 82 c-10 (as well as everything else on that truck.or several in the past) I will try the heating & queching technique first and see where it gets me. I will let yall know how it turns out./ I'll try to post a couple of pics, it's pretty cool if I do say so myself. Thanks again guys. Keep ya posted.
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Old 01-22-2012, 07:45 AM
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Yep..understand..Now try a shrinking disk on it...much easier to control..

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Old 01-22-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmc-10
I appreciate the tips guys. Buying a new one,at the moment, not an option. It's personal now. Been doing this kinda stuff for 20 yrs or so for fun. I had forgotten how thin Japanese metal was.I knew better, just been a while since I shaved a handle on my 82 c-10 (as well as everything else on that truck.or several in the past) I will try the heating & queching technique first and see where it gets me. I will let yall know how it turns out./ I'll try to post a couple of pics, it's pretty cool if I do say so myself. Thanks again guys. Keep ya posted.
why would you use heat? Heat is what got you there in the first place?
It needs to be stretched. This isn't debatable, it's FACT! Heat will just shrink
down the areas that haven't shrunk and didn't lost their contour. Your solution is just to F up everything else that hasn't been F'd up. If you can't get to it with a hammer and dolly to STRETCH than MAYBE I'd consider doing it the wrong way with more heat where the metal is loose. Ya see, the weld zone will be tight and shrunk but it borrowed that metal from somewhere so find it out where it's loose and shrink those areas, if you insist on shrinking, but if you have space use the hammer and dolly for the tight areas cause it's the correct way to fix that.
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Old 01-22-2012, 03:51 PM
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The problem is all in the weld area, stretch it back out where it was and the other problems will go away.
You will end up stretching some areas too much, then have to shrink them, that is common to happen.
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Old 01-25-2012, 10:35 AM
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Hello again. Fixed my issue with the tailgate. I did try to heat the weld area's, and while it did bring some out, it caved the others further. Went back to an old approach I learned as a teenager. I used the water drain holes in the bottom of the tailgate (where the damage was) and a long rod with a flattened end (3-foot 3/8 extension, modified, to be exact), and did more of a paintless dent removal process. By creating tiny dimples on the exterior surface from inside the tailgate, I essentially stretched the skin a tiny bit in every dented area, treating it more like a dent, less like warpage. Using a grinder and sanding disk, I got the whole thing down to metal and the dimples (about a 16th in size each) essentially dissapeared. Now about a 16th or so of a skim coat of filler,(which I planned on anyway) and, it will be straight as an arrow. I do appreciate all the suggestions. You guys truly rock. I'll post a few pics when I get back on it. Thanks again.

Last edited by cmc-10; 01-25-2012 at 10:36 AM. Reason: Cause I sometimes cant spell
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmc-10
Hello again. Fixed my issue with the tailgate. I did try to heat the weld area's, and while it did bring some out, it caved the others further. Went back to an old approach I learned as a teenager. I used the water drain holes in the bottom of the tailgate (where the damage was) and a long rod with a flattened end (3-foot 3/8 extension, modified, to be exact), and did more of a paintless dent removal process. By creating tiny dimples on the exterior surface from inside the tailgate, I essentially stretched the skin a tiny bit in every dented area, treating it more like a dent, less like warpage. Using a grinder and sanding disk, I got the whole thing down to metal and the dimples (about a 16th in size each) essentially dissapeared. Now about a 16th or so of a skim coat of filler,(which I planned on anyway) and, it will be straight as an arrow. I do appreciate all the suggestions. You guys truly rock. I'll post a few pics when I get back on it. Thanks again.
I am glad it all worked out , even though I was no help at all . Hopefully I'll do better next time. Big Al
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Old 01-27-2012, 09:44 AM
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dimpling it probably stretched it some raising the metal. Good to know you got it handled. That thing is been thru war and now you have a little history and story with it.
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Old 01-27-2012, 11:15 AM
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Doing it yourself is a good thing so now you know more about how to fix something which can be useful to you in the future..good job...

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Old 01-28-2012, 09:51 AM
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Thanks again guys. Been in metal fab since I was about 18 (37 now), and customizing anything with wheels since, well.....forever. Worked fabbing metal since then off and on. Worked on LVD, Armada, and Cincinatti press brakes (everything from 3 foot to 11 foot beds), as well as a few different punch machines. I love metal work, and I'm pretty good at it, but had to teach myself welding (mig, arc, etc, never tried tig but I plan to) and dent repair. As you all know, we are all constantly learning.Just a little background. I am happy I found this site and forum.
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinger
Buy a new tailgate and start over. Seriously. Sometimes it's a lesson learned and the second time around it will be easier. What is your time worth to you? Tailgates can usually be found for 40-60 bucks.
I'll second that ....The last thing you want to do is spend 50hours fixing a 50.00 tailgate...and I'd look into HOW your welding it ,also surrounding the area with wet towels will help suck up the heat.
sounds crazy I know but using more heat and faster wire speed will warp it less
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