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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2014, 06:11 PM
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I stand corrected. I looked at my '89 roller cam engine before posting and was sure that it was a 351W and haven't been on since I posted. There was something that was weird about it or I wouldn't have checked mine. The water passage bolt holes looked close to the deck which I figured was from the camera angle. When I logged back on and saw your message, I had to double check and realize from your pic that the front cover top bolts aren't parallel to the pan and manifold surfaces like the earlier ones. I know they went to a smaller waterpump/and timing cover later on so I am guessing they altered the front block castings as well? Is that later than '93?? Stuff like this drives me crazy until I pinpoint the reason for the differences. I had the 5.0 and 351W engines within feet of each other and only the 351W had ribs between the front cover area and the top of the block, so I am guessing your block is later than '93. I still swear by the S100 though

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Old 02-18-2014, 06:16 PM
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Your line was clogged with chloresterol most likely- the same stuff in a fatty steak. It plays hell on sewers and waste water systems.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2014, 04:43 AM
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Can't believe no one has told you to go ahead and remove the cam bearings...........How you gonna get the passages completely clean if you don't? As far as cleaning goes, I soak mine down with engine degreaser and then haul to the local carwash and blow that sucker out. As soon as I get it back home,I use compressed air, wipe down with trans fluid and run brushes through all the passages and the spray it all down real good with trans fluid.
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodz428 View Post
I stand corrected. I looked at my '89 roller cam engine before posting and was sure that it was a 351W and haven't been on since I posted. There was something that was weird about it or I wouldn't have checked mine. The water passage bolt holes looked close to the deck which I figured was from the camera angle. When I logged back on and saw your message, I had to double check and realize from your pic that the front cover top bolts aren't parallel to the pan and manifold surfaces like the earlier ones. I know they went to a smaller waterpump/and timing cover later on so I am guessing they altered the front block castings as well? Is that later than '93?? Stuff like this drives me crazy until I pinpoint the reason for the differences. I had the 5.0 and 351W engines within feet of each other and only the 351W had ribs between the front cover area and the top of the block, so I am guessing your block is later than '93. I still swear by the S100 though

The engine is a '98 manufacture (to be exact, 11/20/98 @12:45PM). Please don't use a Ford timing cover bolt up arrangement for the engine identifier as what I used is a 351W front cover from a 1976 engine I pulled out of a pile at a salvage yard for $20 years back. The original front cover along with the smaller reverse rotation pump and balancer were sold at a swap meet. I can't find a photo of the 'undressed up' engine as the digital camera I had when brought home died but may take some during reassembly.

Are't Ford engines 'interesting' with their bits and pieces?

Dave W
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2014, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by TroyBoy View Post
Can't believe no one has told you to go ahead and remove the cam bearings...........How you gonna get the passages completely clean if you don't? As far as cleaning goes, I soak mine down with engine degreaser and then haul to the local carwash and blow that sucker out. As soon as I get it back home,I use compressed air, wipe down with trans fluid and run brushes through all the passages and the spray it all down real good with trans fluid.
On a Ford engine, there is absolutely no problem accessing every oil passage. There are two holes in each main bearing web. One goes directly to the camshaft bearing webs, the other directly to each of the oil galleys running through the lifter bores. The feed from the oil pump to the filter then back are also clear shots. As long as every galley plug is out, there is totally clear access to everything in the oil passages. And this is a low miles engine as well so really needs no boil out/bead blast cleaning. As far as using a coin op car wash, see OLNOLAN's post on that subject!!!

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:59 PM
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I would never degrease an "open" engine or transmission with water.

I have cleaned many engines and transmissions by hanging them off an engine puller or engine stand and spraying them down with kerosene in a pump sprayer.

My current 1500 Fiat engine I am running in my Yugo, had a leaky valve cover and was coated in dried oil. I sprayed the block, underside of the crank, into the cambox, coolant and oil galleries and let it drain out and dry overnight.

Then taped off between the engine block and head and painted the block Ford blue (I'm also a Ford man) and it didn't even fisheye.

Your neighbors might complain if they see this nasty funk running down the street towards a storm sewer so be discrete about it! Luckily I have no next door neighbors and don't live in a burb...

I use kerosene in my parts washer which is cheaper than naptha based cleaners and doesn't stink as bad and seems to cut grease just as good. Also great to mop garage floors with after an oil change!

My only concern about doing what I have done is kerosene will wash out any oil. But won't rust internals like water will. I'd rather have kerosene get into a manual transmission than I would water. At least it will mix and can be drained out and replaced with fresh gear oil.

Diesel fuel is cheaper but it's more of an oil where kerosene is more like a solvent and will evaporate. I once tried diesel fuel in my parts washer but didn't like it because I had washed some parts and after a week, they were still wet! It seems diesel fuel won't evaporate!

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Old 02-21-2014, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Irelands child View Post
On a Ford engine, there is absolutely no problem accessing every oil passage. There are two holes in each main bearing web. One goes directly to the camshaft bearing webs, the other directly to each of the oil galleys running through the lifter bores. The feed from the oil pump to the filter then back are also clear shots. As long as every galley plug is out, there is totally clear access to everything in the oil passages. And this is a low miles engine as well so really needs no boil out/bead blast cleaning. As far as using a coin op car wash, see OLNOLAN's post on that subject!!!

Dave W
Good deal for your Ford. Just went through 8 pages of Nolans posts and didn't see a reference to car washes. Been doing it for 20 + years .
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2014, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by TroyBoy View Post
Just went through 8 pages of Nolans posts and didn't see a reference to car washes.
You should have gone one more page. See post 45 here: Converter problem - maybe??
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2014, 01:43 PM
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I see why you/him are upset. I don't do that. Probably one of the few who don't leave a mess. I always scrape the majority off the outside of the block anyways. The stuff he points out are for the guys who that also leave all kinds of crap in parking lots after a get together or hangout session ,too. Like I said, I am not that guy. I suppose I should have posted some carwash etticate (I know- wrong spelling) but assumed someone on here would use common sense. Not EVERYONE is a jerk in regards to other peoples property. Now, with all this being said , again, I'm glad your Ford engine is easier to clean than mine.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 02-21-2014, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jseabolt View Post
I would never degrease an "open" engine or transmission with water.

I have cleaned many engines and transmissions by hanging them off an engine puller or engine stand and spraying them down with kerosene in a pump sprayer.

My current 1500 Fiat engine I am running in my Yugo, had a leaky valve cover and was coated in dried oil. I sprayed the block, underside of the crank, into the cambox, coolant and oil galleries and let it drain out and dry overnight.

Then taped off between the engine block and head and painted the block Ford blue (I'm also a Ford man) and it didn't even fisheye.

Your neighbors might complain if they see this nasty funk running down the street towards a storm sewer so be discrete about it! Luckily I have no next door neighbors and don't live in a burb...

I use kerosene in my parts washer which is cheaper than naptha based cleaners and doesn't stink as bad and seems to cut grease just as good. Also great to mop garage floors with after an oil change!

My only concern about doing what I have done is kerosene will wash out any oil. But won't rust internals like water will. I'd rather have kerosene get into a manual transmission than I would water. At least it will mix and can be drained out and replaced with fresh gear oil.

Diesel fuel is cheaper but it's more of an oil where kerosene is more like a solvent and will evaporate. I once tried diesel fuel in my parts washer but didn't like it because I had washed some parts and after a week, they were still wet! It seems diesel fuel won't evaporate!
I have used K1 as well as diesel for parts cleaning - but really can't in my neighborhood. As far as diesel being cheaper - not at $4.49 a gallon vs kero at $3.79 (noon today when I put $85 bucks worth of diesel for about a half tank for my Ford truck)

This engine is 100% apart so any water left can be easily blown and swabbed out - and that project, if the weather stays above freezing, should happen tomorrow, Sunday at the latest
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:29 AM
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It's washed - and is squeaky clean:
Dawn
Pressure washer detergent
Bore brushes
Many, many gallons of 150 degree water
Wire brushes, steel wool and even some sandpaper.

On it's way:


Clean!!!!!!


I can't believe how fast flash rust appeared after I had finished - literally in seconds and well before I got it back in my shop - which meant that more steel wool, wire brushes and even some Scotch-Brite and oil in the cylinders

Thanks to all the great suggestions. After doing a really good initial scraping, using some rotary fiber brushes and wire brush cleaning on the stand, it really didn't need much more then a splash off. That's one of the pluses of having time to putter (I'm retired)

Dave W
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2014, 07:05 AM
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This is what the engine looked like just before I reinstalled it in the car. I still have a day of double checking odds and ends(fasteners and electrical connections), but it will be rumblin' soon. Thanks to all who helped/commented:





Dave W
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2014, 07:21 AM
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Lookin Good

Lookin good Dave. It's a sanitary setup. I love to see em all dressed up like that, except that I like mine with a BOWTIE.
Great job, carry on Sir.

Nolan
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Old 04-14-2014, 08:04 AM
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Lookin good Dave. It's a sanitary setup. I love to see em all dressed up like that, except that I like mine with a BOWTIE.
Great job, carry on Sir.

Nolan

Thanks Nolan. At least it will be clean again for a couple years. I also hope the noise went away with the old torque TCI converter/flex plate as the next thing in line is the transmission.

As far as bowties - I only do them with a monkey suit and only for weddings (and dam' I have GC getting close to that age)

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Old 04-14-2014, 08:50 AM
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Best of luck with the clunking noise

I sure hope it works out for you. I mean eliminating the clunk. Sometimes it works out the best to go from front to rear.

I have a good friend who's an expert mechanic. He's Ford factory trained in everything they offer. Has his own transmission shop nowadays and can troubleshoot about anything he comes across. We were working together on a motorhome brake issue a while back that was driving us nuts. We were both at a loss as to the problem and he said, "Sometimes you have to put your pride at being able to troubleshoot the EXACT problem aside and just start at the beginning and work your way to the end, lets start changing some parts".

Nolan
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