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Old 02-04-2014, 12:36 PM
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"Washing" an engine

I have the very clean low miles 5.0 SB Ford from my '31 out and completely disassembled, including all of the core and galley plugs in the block as well as the heads. The only parts left in place are the cam bearings. I've done some work including grinding and drilling/tapping and now it needs a good wash out. I've always used ordinary Tide washing machine powder detergent in the past. This time, I intend to use my power washer with a detergent a high pressure rinse and then Tide for the final oil galley brush cleaning followed by another high pressure rinse. Being normally curious, does this still seem like a good way or are there other ways that some of you may have used?

Dave W

(even the black paint is gone now )


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Old 02-04-2014, 01:00 PM
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Castrol "Super Clean" works great for removing contaminents. Don't let it contact the cam bearings or aluminum for long and rinse WELL..
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com View Post
Castrol "Super Clean" works great for removing contaminents. Don't let it contact the cam bearings or aluminum for long and rinse WELL..
I'll take a look for some of that - thanks. I can probably protect the cam bearings pretty well

After I'm done assembling I want the exterior ready for some fresh paint as well since I've scraped and ground the old stuff off. My mistake - I used Centari instead of engine enamel. It worked before, just didn't this time

Dave W
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:12 PM
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If the picture you posted is of the engine, it appears to be a 351W not a 5.0,302,289 or any short deck Windsor. On those engines the dist. area is flush with the manifold surface of the block. The 351W has the illustrated 1.25 difference in deck height.
For cleaning, either, I use Dawn or a morotorcycle cleaning product, S100. It's available at virtually any bike shop or online. I usually get the larger 4 liter container.

Last edited by woodz428; 02-04-2014 at 02:22 PM.
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Old 02-04-2014, 02:41 PM
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If the picture you posted is of the engine, it appears to be a 351W not a 5.0,302,289 or any short deck Windsor. On those engines the dist. area is flush with the manifold surface of the block. The 351W has the illustrated 1.25 difference in deck height.
For cleaning, either, I use Dawn or a morotorcycle cleaning product, S100. It's available at virtually any bike shop or online. I usually get the larger 4 liter container.
First of all, I can assure you that it is NOT a 351W unless someone sneaked into my house and gave me a present of 49 cid, a much heavier and taller block along with a crank that has something bigger then 2.1235 rod journals and 2.2487 mains as I measured a couple days ago. A 351W was considered for the car as I've used them in past cars, but I just couldn't score a good roller cam crate motor at the time and at the price I was willing to pay.

I like Dawn, but I think it might be a little too mild to do a good job on oil galleys.

The same engine before it was taken apart for the current work:

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Old 02-04-2014, 04:06 PM
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oven cleaner for the tough ****, Purple Power mixed with HOT water for everything else- the block will come out looking new.

I also wipe everything down with MMO afterwards to prevent rust and it acts as a good final cleanser.

Also, installing cam bearings isn't all that hard to do yourself- I HAD to do it one time and was amazed at how simple it is- that was on a sbc though.
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Old 02-04-2014, 05:38 PM
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"Washing" an engine

On the last rebuild I did on my BBC, after I brought the block home I use 100# of air to blow through all the holes first. Then I used Simple Green to wash everything with. It's a degreaser that works good IMO. I dried the block with a terrycloth towel then blew it with air again. I wiped everything down with transmission fluid before bagging. The block and crank turned out good. Even the oily residue was gone off my aluminum heads. I did my washing with a microfiber towel and used brushes in the oil holes and just rinsed with a water hose. I would think the Simple Green would work better with a high pressure washer.
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:04 PM
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Good ideas - almost makes me wish that I had several engines to try them out on for the best way. I'm not sure I can handle the stench of Simple Green. I just did a really grungy and oily section of my painted shop floor with 100% and had to quit for the day at about 3:00PM. It is great stuff though.

I haven't decided on replacing cam bearings yet as these still look pretty good as the engine only has about 2500 miles on it since brand new out of the crate

Dave W
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Old 02-05-2014, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOBCRMAN@aol.com View Post
Castrol "Super Clean" works great for removing contaminents. Don't let it contact the cam bearings or aluminum for long and rinse WELL..
This stuff does work wonders. I would certainly include it as a part of teh cleanup.

Its good to use some good old soap and water as well, Tide would work wll. You want to get the soap in there to break down the surface tension of water which will help the water get into every crevice and in turn.

peace
Hog
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Old 02-05-2014, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by cdminter59 View Post
...Simple Green...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
I'm not sure I can handle the stench of Simple Green
Simple Green is amazing stuff! I use it on my guns as it works better than traditional gun cleaner solvent. I use it on auto parts too. Works miracles. Nontoxic and safe on skin too. The regular simple green will damage aluminum though through hydrogen embrittlement (Frequently Asked Questions). But for steel, no worries. Not sure what it will do to cam bearings.

Stench? Surely you jest? Smells fresh and minty!
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:11 PM
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Simple Green followed by Zep Heavy Duty Citrus Cleaner, seems one gets what the other doesn't. Pressure wash with steam if possible or as hot as water as you can get followed by air to remove moisture...an alchohol rinse helps to get all the water out. This method is about as good as you can get short of a high pressure blast cabinet

Tide leaves a residue no matter how much you rinse, if you use Tide wash again with TSP (trip-sodium phosphate) to remove the residue but use the recommended amount in the pressure washer and rinse with clear water.

Before paint a wipe with quality lacquer thinner or MEK works well.
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Old 02-05-2014, 07:53 PM
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If I was going to use Tide or any detergent, it would be the liquid, not the powder. I live in a rural area where we use septic tanks. We use to use powdered laundry soap until the main drain got plugged up. When we dug it up to clean it out, it looked like concrete. My only guess is some of the soap did not completely dissolve and plugged up the line.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:06 PM
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Simple green, purple power, superclean, "Awesome" found at Dollar General and sometimes Walmart is really good stuff.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:06 PM
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If I was going to use Tide or any detergent, it would be the liquid, not the powder. I live in a rural area where we use septic tanks. We use to use powdered laundry soap until the main drain got plugged up. When we dug it up to clean it out, it looked like concrete. My only guess is some of the soap did not completely dissolve and plugged up the line.
Luckily we have a town sewer system - and that line was replaced new last summer after a failure. What you dug up was probably a combination of detergent, soap and fat if it looked like what the laterals from the homes here looked like.
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Old 02-05-2014, 08:23 PM
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Luckily we have a town sewer system - and that line was replaced new last summer after a failure. What you dug up was probably a combination of detergent, soap and fat if it looked like what the laterals from the homes here looked like.
Whatever it was, it wasn't pretty and didn't smell like roses
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