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-   -   Washing surfacer after blocking. (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/washing-surfacer-after-blocking-101592.html)

zeke5 11-02-2006 05:18 AM

Washing surfacer after blocking.
 
After blocking surfacer is it OK to wash the whole vehicle? No soap of course. I am concerned about dust and sanding residue on the surface and crevaces.

astroracer 11-02-2006 08:41 AM

Yes, washing is okay and the about the best way to remove all of that sanding dust. A good, grease cutting, dish soap (I use Dawn) is fine as long as you rinse it off very well. Also make sure it is well dryed before you spray anymore paint. I use an air nozzle and blow as much water off as I can before is sits too long. And ALWAYS wipe the surface with a good degreaser like PrepSol or Pre-Kleano before spraying any paint.
Mark

jcclark 11-02-2006 09:57 AM

I do the same thing, always wash it off with Dawn or Joy dish detergent.
Haven't had any fish eyes since doing that, I quit using the
wax and grease remover afterwards long ago.
Also wipe as much water off afterwards as quick as you can,
water that dries on the surface leaves residues (spots) behind.
I squeege the surface off and dry with a towel after washing.
I usually wait till the next day before painting, it has to be
completely dry. :pimp:

baddbob 11-02-2006 01:31 PM

Water only for me if washing before paint, I've seen some major fisheye problems when using dishsoaps. Waterbased wax and grease remover before paint. I haven't had fisheye problems in years. A 50/50 mix of isopropyl and water also makes for a good prepaint cleaner-spray on and wipe off.

adtkart 11-02-2006 05:46 PM

I tried the dish soap wash on one of the last cars that I painted. Never saw so many fish eyes in my life, and I usually don't have any. I won't do that again!

Aaron

BarryK 11-02-2006 06:45 PM

Bob brings up a good point about wax and grease removers that needs to be expounded on.

Even though you wipe the wax and grease remover dry as you do each panel
that does not mean it is out of all the pores be it metal or primer.

High humidity will further slow the evaporation rate as well as a cool shop.
Some painter will use a blow gun as they tack the car to help dry and some will let the car set for 15 to 20 minutes to finish drying.
What you don't see can be a disaster if it is not dry.

crazycuda 11-02-2006 10:29 PM

I wanted to interject that some of the washing rags people use are shop rags or wash mits that had another type of soap or fabric softner in them. Alot of car soaps have silicone in them and if you use the same rag or brush that will cause a problem. For using towles or rags that have been through the laundry there could be residual fabric softner in the material.
My little shortcut is take one of those pump spray jugs (approx 2 gallon size) and fill it up with hot water and add a fiew spritzs of dish soap. Pump it up and hose away then rinse.

jcclark 11-03-2006 04:39 AM

That's probably where they're getting fish eyes from, it's not the dishwashing
soap, that's for sure.
Dawn or Joy will strip wax and grease better than anything, it rinses it
away totally, unlike trying to transfer it to a rag by wiping it with
wax and grease remover, most times people just smear it around that way
if not doing it right.
I use the same towel for finish washing, and only that towel for only
that purpose. I've been using Dawn for over 10 yrs now and don't use
any wax and grease remover once I've washed a panel.
I never get fish eyes that way, never. :pimp:

astroracer 11-03-2006 05:02 AM

Like JC said I have never had a problem with fisheyes using Dawn. As far as towels go I only use the Scott Blue Shop Towels for washing & drying.
http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/...00751462_3.jpg
I use them once and toss them. I also use them for degreasing. They are lint free and work VERY well. I wouldn't even think about using a regular cloth rag or towel for cleaning prior to painting. I highly recommend them, give them a try and let us know what you think...
Mark


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