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Water heat

2K views 39 replies 14 participants last post by  johnsongrass1 
#1 ·
My car takes a long time to heat up, especially in the winter. I drive about 3 miles to work. A mix of city and freeway taking usually about 15 minutes. About halfway there the coolant warms up enough to produce heat. I have a '64 Nova wagon with a 194 6. Would changing the thermostat to a higher temp unit help?

Strummin
 
#3 ·
strummin67 said:
My car takes a long time to heat up, especially in the winter. I drive about 3 miles to work. A mix of city and freeway taking usually about 15 minutes. About halfway there the coolant warms up enough to produce heat. I have a '64 Nova wagon with a 194 6. Would changing the thermostat to a higher temp unit help?

Strummin


Geez, you're lucky you don't live where it gets cold.... :thumbup:

Thermostats only control the minimum operating temperature. Until they open the water just recirculates until it reaches the design temperature.

When it is cold, pop the radiator cap and start the engine. See if there is any water circulating when the thermostat is suppose to be closed. Should not be any movement. You might install a NEW 195* thermostat in case the old one partially opens at too low of a temperature, and then hangs at that setting until later, then goes to full open. Probably it will not help.

3 miles/ 15 minutes in freezing weather is problematic.

Heater cores are little radiators. When you have the heater on and blowing full blast the water is being cooled by the heater, so the engine takes even longer to warm up. Example = Lincoln TownCar the heater will not blow until the water warms to a 120*. No need to blow icy air at your feet.

I would suggest to you that "warming it up" for 15 minutes with the heater OFF, before you leave is probably the only way you will get the heat that you desire.

You could try using a coolant heater that installs in the heater hose and keeps the coolant at 50* all the time when it is plugged into the wall. That is.... if your heater is the full flow variety that does not have a water shut off valve when the heater is OFF.
12 hours a day plugged-in will cost you about 90 cents a day for electricity.

I remember when my buddy had a gasoline fired aircraft heater in his old Corvair....... instant full heat !!!!!!! That was nice at below zero.
 
#5 ·
I have no idea what's in there now. I bought the car like that. I have thought of doing what truckers do and restrict some of the airflow through the radiator by partially covering it up. This is also a new radiator that I've been using only since October.

Strummin
 
#6 ·
strummin67 said:
I have no idea what's in there now. I bought the car like that. I have thought of doing what truckers do and restrict some of the airflow through the radiator by partially covering it up. This is also a new radiator that I've been using only since October.

Strummin
You want a simple answer. NO, a new thermostat will NOT help if the old one is OK.

Covering the radiator will make no difference to the warmup. The water is not circulating through it until the thermostat opens.
 
#8 ·
As we got into the 20s last night---Brr---my blood is thinning

I am in the habit of warming the car before leaving---if below 40* out.
10 minutes and still no warm air-----2005 Ranger----
will warm after about 2miles + 10 min idle

Neither one of the T-Birds will blow warm until after 3-4 miles
These cars have Auto-temp-----won't even blow air til they warm up.

If you are only going 3 miles in 15 minutes---with a manual trans., you are not loading the engine at lights--longer to warm up.

Bryan
 
#10 ·
Lonestar said:
Personally, I would completely flush the system paying particular attention to the heater core. Then install a 195 thermo and see what happens.

Unless the system is properly "BACK flushed" it won't help anyway.

Very few places PROPERLY back flush systems,,,,,, all they do is drain and refill.

A proper system back-flush might even ruin an old weak heater core. But at least you'd be rid of it. :thumbup:
 
#13 ·
Well, I have a Maverick with a 250, 3 speed, bout the same set up as you. These cars never had a heater worth anything. Early Mustangs were the same too. I used a piece of card board and covered 1/2 of the direct air flow. It did help, it didnt set you on fire but it was warm. I disagree, when you partially cover the front of your radiator, you limit the amount of airflow the fan is pulling through it. Keep an eye on the temp gauge, in that short distance, you might could cover over half of the radiator. I dont know how cold it gets where you are. Are you running 50/50 in coolant mixture. If you run pure antifreeze, it takes just a little longer to warm up. I live in Ga, so the temps here dont drop and stay in the - F as ya'll do. We might get down in the teens for a short bit, mostly we get down to around 20 to 25deg. But for us thats pretty cold. All in what you are used too I guess. I have taken my fan off and drove all winter with no trouble at all. But it was a work thing, before I went any kind of long distance, fan was in the trunk, took 3 minutes to stick back on. Though not recommended, it did help. As a matter of fact I parked the car almost 10 years ago, fan is in the trunk now.
 
#14 ·
Glxy500 said:
I used a piece of card board and covered 1/2 of the direct air flow. It did help, it didnt set you on fire but it was warm. I disagree, when you partially cover the front of your radiator, you limit the amount of airflow the fan is pulling through it.

.

Please help me understand. I need to learn. :welcome: I grew up/ 20 years where it got -30* BELOW ZERO.

How could blocking the air flow through the radiator make the engine warm up faster IF THE THERMOSTAT IS NOT CIRCULATING WATER THROUGH THE RADIATOR anyway ??????

Sufficiently restricting the airflow will make the coolant hotter than the thermostat's open-temperature AFTER the engine warms up.
In such case, you just need a higher temperature thermostat.

Teach this old dog a new trick. :cool:
 
#16 ·
A freeze-plug style engine block heater will warm the engine up before you start it, and they are very foolproof (they can't overheat the coolant).

If you find someone who knows how to install a block heater, its a simple, quick job. The heater itself is only about $25.

Bruce
 
#17 ·
xntrik said:
Unless the system is properly "BACK flushed" it won't help anyway.

Very few places PROPERLY back flush systems,,,,,, all they do is drain and refill.

A proper system back-flush might even ruin an old weak heater core. But at least you'd be rid of it. :thumbup:
I realize that I didn't use the term "back flush", but when flushing a system there is only one way to do it properly.

If the heater core cannot take it then it's time to replace it.

3 miles is not a long distance to go, but 15 minutes should warm up an engine in most cases. My thought is basically to first ensure that the system is clean and then to make sure it's functioning properly.

Cardboard in front of the radiator only helps when the radiator is functioning so well that it keeps the coolant too cold therefore not retaining enough heat to transfer through the heater system...it will not help in this case.

Ensuring a clean and properly functioning system may as he doesn't see temps this cool too often.

Also, starting the car a few minutes earlier would probably help.
 
#20 ·
Lonestar said:
I realize that I didn't use the term "back flush", but when flushing a system there is only one way to do it properly.

If the heater core cannot take it then it's time to replace it.

........
Also, starting the car a few minutes earlier would probably help.
agree.
Most shops only back flush the engine, and do not disconnect and backflush the heater separately. Lots of them have silicone in the passages.
 
#21 ·
strummin67 said:
It's usually in the 40s in the mornings but lately it's been in the upper 20s low 30s. A little unusual here.

Strummin
Yes, we've been hearing about your freezing temps, and the effect on the citrus crops, which affects us all.



This cold weather is due to a huge Hi in the arctic, pushing all that cold air south.


It was -30°C (-20°F) here in Alberta a few days ago, but has now warmed back up to right around the freezing mark. (0°C or 32° F) which is about the same as El Paso!!!

Sounds like you don't have a thermostat ... remove the thermostat housing (attaches the upper rad hose to the engine) and have a look. Make sure you have a new gasket first, or you'll be hitch-hiking to the parts store. :mwink:

<Teasing now>
Dress in layers, put on a touque and scarf, and your "long-john" thermal underwear ... and hang on ... this "cold" weather won't last. :D
 
#22 ·
I usually laugh at the people who complain "it's too cold" when it's in the 50s. What we have here in the Bay Area is nothing compared to other parts of the country. Even at work I have to wear my coat in the shipping area. Even with the doors shut and the heater going. I never had to do that before. I must be getting old. :D

Strummin
 
#23 ·
strummin67 said:
I usually laugh at the people who complain "it's too cold" when it's in the 50s. What we have here in the Bay Area is nothing compared to other parts of the country. Even at work I have to wear my coat in the shipping area. Even with the doors shut and the heater going. I never had to do that before. I must be getting old. :D

Strummin

Did you say old or cold? :D

20 and dropping to 15 they say. Next week might be 60. never know.

Cold isn't too bad if it isn't real windy. I just hate the heavy ice storms that do our bi-annual tree trimming and power line testing.
 
#25 ·
How could blocking the air flow through the radiator make the engine warm up faster IF THE THERMOSTAT IS NOT CIRCULATING WATER THROUGH THE RADIATOR anyway ??????





This usually helped after the thermostat opened, or the water reached operating temp. The cardboard was for trveling at normal speeds down the highway. His problem could be no thermostat at all, restricted/ kinked hose, collapsed fitting, plugged core. Could be a number of things, the cardboard worked for us. Still does for me. It was just a suggestion to try.
 
#26 ·
congrats on solving the problem (new thermostat)....don'tcha' love it when $10 is the fix!

I'd be looking for some new doors/windows weatherstripping....50* and 90% humidity and a 65mph draft in the car = friggin refrigerator....they aren't real expensive or difficult to install.....to do what you can to keep the heat in the car

"el cheapo" fast and easy weatherstrip fix, thin, "closed cell" door foam/self adhesive weatherstrip from Lowes on top of the existing to get back an air seal.....wipe down the old with lacquer thinner, paint the new foam rattle can flat black before installed....I mentioned this cause I don't know if a new rear door seal is available for your car....
 
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