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Old 02-19-2003, 07:15 PM
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Post Water temp.

I have a sb 350 with a 195 degree thermostat. It will usually stay at 195 but occassionally it will go to about 210 degrees. At what temp should I be worried? How hot is overheating or getting close? Should I step down with the thermostat and go with maybe a 180 degree? Thanks for the help guys.

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Old 02-19-2003, 09:12 PM
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i'm running a 180degree thermostat...i think, but anyways mine stays right at about 180 without a fan shroud. if you dont have one it will run a bit warmer because it wont be sucking in air as well. im guessing the freeze plugs will pop on your block at somewhere around 250 degrees, so stay away from that high of temp but why dont we let the real pro's on this site tell you....anyone?
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Old 02-20-2003, 03:07 AM
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Anything over 250 i would be concerned. Some 350's run around the 210 mark.
It also depends what all you have truned on while your hit 210. A/c, Running up a hill, defrost, and the list can keep going.
Sometime the radiator cap will have sometning to do with it. are you running a 6 lb, 13 lb, or a 16 lb cap?
There's a link in the knowlege base on over heating. It's very helpful on overheating
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Old 02-20-2003, 05:43 AM
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Like awsum34 says the higher the pressure cap the less temp. like a pressure cooker. Depends on the type of fan, do you have a shroud? Put some Purple Ice, Red Line water treatment in it to help, it helps absorb the heat into the coolant better between 10* to 20* it does work. 210* is the perfect temp to run at but an older design 350
likes 195*. The newer ones have reverse flow thru the heads to help with spark knock at the higher temps. A good high flow water pump will help, you can get a kit with a backing plate that you can put on your pump, but be careful tapping the rivets in. A GM aluminum High flow is $85. that's what I paid for my Vette with a 3/4" bearing.
Also check out the knowledge base on this site, there is a lot of useful information. I also use a thermo clutch fan to help.


[ February 20, 2003: Message edited by: 1BAD80 ]</p>
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Old 02-20-2003, 05:55 AM
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mine was doing that- I lost the clutch fan & went to a straight drive 7 blade fan & it stopped.
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Old 02-20-2003, 06:08 AM
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I had the same kind of problem, so i put a 6 blade racing fan, and a 160 degree therm in my truck, plus the temp guage was wrong. how many blades you got on your fan, if you have 4 or 5 try moving up to 6 or so, and yes a lower therm should keep it below 210, if not, it will not go to high to crack anything. good luck, chevyman.
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Old 02-20-2003, 09:53 AM
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A higher pressure cap will not make an engine run cooler it simply raises the boiling point of the coolant thus allowing an engine to reach a higher temp before boiling over.Sounds like an air flow problem to me.Do you have a fan shroud?
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Old 02-20-2003, 03:29 PM
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Typical coolant pressures can build to over 16 PSI at 200 degrees F from room temperature. Internal pressures can build to over 28lbs of pressure under certain conditions and yet pressure is a radiator's friend, if it can be contained and used productively. Pressure provides increased boiling protection, hot spot formation protection and pump cavitation prevention. For example, a typical 10 PSI increase in internal pressure can bring the boiling point of water to 240 degrees F.
When temperatures go up when running down the road at cruising speed, this usually indicates an overly lean condition. However, a like condition may be induced by altering the frontal area of certain cars and trucks with the removing, adding or modifying of air dams or simply blocking air. Removal of air dams of production cars can produce high pressure behind the radiator at speed and reduce airflow thru the radiator itself causing overheating. This is especially true on Corvettes, Camaros, Mustangs, Firebirds and the like. Custom front ends that impede the flow of air into the radiator can do much the same thing.Another less likely cause of rising temps at cruising speeds, if using a shroud on tight engine compartmented cars (ie. Narrow-nosed street rods), the shroud may be inhibiting airflow when at speed even though the shroud is warranted when idling and at slow speeds. This can be relieved by cutting holes in the shroud and affixing rubber flapper relief valves that let air thru from the back but will close at idle to keep the air pulled through the radiator.
Go to the Knowledge Base and you will find what your looking for.

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Old 02-20-2003, 03:35 PM
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For every pound of pressure, the boiling point increases three degrees. The pressure decreases the size of any air bubbles traped it the block/heads, reducing the hot spots. $0.02
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Old 02-20-2003, 07:44 PM
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You may want to check your timing if its set to high it can make you run a little hot if your car has a computer and mine does it runs in that range
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