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Old 06-28-2013, 08:51 PM
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water trap

Finally got around to building my paint booth water trap. Build from sc 40 pvc. The air comes in the middle and goes out to the air line from the top. The drain is in the bottom. 3" pvc pipe to 3/4 pvc air line. And before I get and heat over pvc air lines. I've had 4 shops one done in 1" copper, one done in black pipe and this is the second one in pvc. Last one was 10 years with no issues. this one 2 yrs so far. But you can not hook to air compressor without a flexable line. The movement of the compressor will break the line.Back to the trap, the idea is when the air enters the open space in the tube it cools. Water is heavyer than air so it falls to the bottom. Clean air comes off the top.Last one of these I had was a drive shaft with fittings brazed on. Worked great. If you forget to drain it for a week you wont beleive how much water it will collect.
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:42 AM
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I've thinking about using an empty freon tank with kitty litter in it. One 1/2 in. pipe for incoming air that goes to the bottom of the tank an another 1/2 in. pipe at the top of the tank for out going air with a air filter on the end. Just like a sand filter on a swimming pool.
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Old 06-29-2013, 09:14 PM
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I like the idea of a large diameter to slow the speed of the air so it doesn't push water up the lines. I don't know if it will cool enough to condense all the moisture.

Dogwater - That might work if you regularly change out the kitty litter.
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Old 06-30-2013, 12:19 AM
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pvc aging issues

When Pvc ages it gets brittle and the Manufactures recommend that you do NOT use them for air lines. If you keep them I would use some kind of a flak jacket around them. PVC shards do NOT show up in X rays. I have ran UNDERGROUND pvc air lines, and copper up out of the ground.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:15 AM
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I have been using PVC for 22 years in my shop ,it comes out the compressor as 1 in,the n goes to a 2 in the 2in goes up the wall to top of wall 12 ft then circles the entire shop 40x40 with 6 down tubes with a drain at bottom of each tube about 18 in from bottom I have a discharge line for connectors with regulators and in paint booth a dryer then a regulator regulator last ,No problems with PVC ,use heavy wall,
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Old 06-30-2013, 09:17 AM
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UV degradation.

When PVc is used for Farm Irrigation, anything exposed to sunlite has to be covered with dirt or painted, I had some piping above ground and after 20 years , if i bumped it it would shatter.
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Old 06-30-2013, 10:37 AM
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I have been using PVC in my shop for the last 15 yrs or so,,, I know a shop not far from me had it for over 30 yrs and still going strong,,, Can it Hurt you ??? I'm sure it can if you yank the line off the wall !!!!!!

But if you run it and make sure EVERYTHING is good and tight to the shop,, Where you can't pull on it,, It's fine... It's like anything,,, ANYTHING can hurt you if you don't use your head right..
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:02 AM
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The other thing to think about is if it retains heat, from what I understand PVC retains heat, heat = moisture because the air doesn't cool down enough for the droplets to get large enough for the water trap to effectively trap it. Or for the water trap to not have to trap it because it simply finds it's self in the drain first.

Water pipe is so cheap and available in so many different lengths I just figured why chance it? But as others have said, I have seen it in shops MANY shops with PVC and never heard of a failure that I can remember. I don't think the failure thing is that big of a deal, when you go to the store to buy your pipe, there is PVC, and next to it is galvanized pipe, you can grab either one, it's your choice right?

This is a flexible line I got at an aircraft parts place.





Up and over..



Mounted on blocks so that the pipe can get air all the way around it so it cools better.







Over the garage door and down the other side.





To the water trap and a drain before it that goes down almost to the floor.

I did this following what the major paint companies say on compressor piping, to a tee. It's 3/4" pipe (ID) galvanized, don't use black pipe it will rust. You will notice it is mounted at an incline, again, right by the paint manufacturers guidelines. This makes it harder for the heavier water droplets to travel up the pipe, instead coming back to the compressor to be drained out the bottom. The down pipe at the end takes an abrupt rise before it goes down for the same reason, so the droplets can as easily go up before coming down to your outlet. Again, this is all per the paint manufacturers guidelines to produce the least moisture at the end of the hose, at your gun.

I built it all with pipe right off the shelf combining precut lengths to fit. I had to have them cut and thread one piece for me (at no cost) and I was done, a system I never even have to think about, done deal.


Brian

Last edited by MARTINSR; 06-30-2013 at 11:07 AM.
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Old 06-30-2013, 11:53 AM
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Brian, your piping is like mine, compressor on one side of my garage with my pipe going up an over the door, pipe above door angling back towards the compressor side then pipe going down the other side of the door to the filter/water trap & connections. I also used iron pipe, the only thing my filter catches is very small prices of rust from the pipe, like half a tea spoon after a year. No water issues at all, but I know their is water & oil vapor still in the air. So I was thinking about building this kitty litter thing which I'm sure would take care of that, but it might start a dust problem. Maybe I should build it an see how it goes. I'll use dispose able filters on the outlet end. The only time I get fish eyes is when spraying metallic I was thinking that might be from the water/oil vapor in the air.
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Old 06-30-2013, 12:57 PM
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unlike the dessicant, the cat litter will clump, and once it's clumped it would be hell to get out of a system.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:03 PM
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Brian, your plumbing system is good except for one thing. Don't make the water go all the way back to the air tank. Put another drop line in the corner on the left side of your garage door. 80% of the moisture will fall in that drop line and you can drain it from there with a ball valve.

I have my cooling line set up similar.....50 ft of pipe along the wall/ceiling but all mine is angled down along the entire run with 3 drops before it gets to the hose reel. I've always heard to not use galvanized pipe because it doesn't adhere as well on the inside and is thinner, making it prone to flaking off and plugging quick couplers... All my pipe is black.

I also extended the bottom tank drain out to daylight with a ball valve at the end to drain. I got tired of laying on the floor and reaching under the tank in a big hurry....
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Old 06-30-2013, 08:35 PM
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Sounds like all of our systems are similar I ran the 2 in PVC because it is what I had left over after building my house have 140 ft of 2in 40 ft across back wall and 40 ft up either side an 20 ft across front then 6 8 ft dountubes with a drain at bottom of each ,so I think it should be enough volune to cool I felt the same about lying down draining tank so I installed an automatic tank drain on tank ,still have to drain down tubes occasionally ,mine also drains away from tank toward manual drains ,,I did not know how to set it up so a service man from the shop I use to work at set it up for me.

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Old 06-30-2013, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Too Many Projects View Post
Brian, your plumbing system is good except for one thing. Don't make the water go all the way back to the air tank. Put another drop line in the corner on the left side of your garage door. 80% of the moisture will fall in that drop line and you can drain it from there with a ball valve.

I have my cooling line set up similar.....50 ft of pipe along the wall/ceiling but all mine is angled down along the entire run with 3 drops before it gets to the hose reel. I've always heard to not use galvanized pipe because it doesn't adhere as well on the inside and is thinner, making it prone to flaking off and plugging quick couplers... All my pipe is black.

I also extended the bottom tank drain out to daylight with a ball valve at the end to drain. I got tired of laying on the floor and reaching under the tank in a big hurry....
Holy crap, you are absolutely right, that makes perfect sense!

I will have to do that. I put a remote drain with a ball valve off the bottom of the tank so it's easy to reach.

Brian
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Old 06-30-2013, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Holy crap, you are absolutely right, that makes perfect sense!

I will have to do that. I put a remote drain with a ball valve off the bottom of the tank so it's easy to reach.

Brian
And if you have hard pipe from the tank,, With no hose when your Compressor is running it will shake the piping and you don't want anything shaking when your painting.. You could get something in your paint job... Seen a lot of people wonder why they get trash in their paint job and you go to their shop and no rubber hose coming of the compressor..

I would make sure Your flexible line isn't to hard...Put your hand on your wall when the compressor come's on..You will know..

One thing to keep in mind when your running that pipe over PVC.. They both get water in them.. The pipe will rust, The PVC won't...
As far as the pipe getting hot... You will have that problem with both...
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Old 06-30-2013, 09:38 PM
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Thanks, yeah the flexible line works great, it doesn't vibrate the pipe on the wall at all. I assume the galvanized pipe will rust at some time, this is true.

Brian
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