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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2006, 09:11 AM
camaroman7d's Avatar
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Plain water cools better that water/anifreeze. Antifreeze is good for two things, prevent freezeng (hence the name) and lubrication for the water pump. I do not run antifreeze in my hot rods, I run straight water and Hyper-lube similar to Water Wetter but, I like it better. There are several additives out there now that work. I don't live in a freezing climate so I don't use antifreeze also my toys gets park inside. My daily drivers do have antifreeze in them, never know where they may end up during the winter, better safe than sorry.

You do need to run an additive to the water, to prevent corrosion and for lubrication.

I wouldn't change anything if you are staying at 185* at all times.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2006, 12:44 PM
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Naive here

Wait, naive here. Am I understanding this correctly. You mean you don't need antifreeze to make an engine run cooler? Why do they call it coolant? And if I run just water and an additive it will run cooler than with antifreeze?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 07-21-2006, 12:47 PM
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The mix of water and antifreeze is called coolant. A/F also raises the boiling point.
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Old 07-21-2006, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbchevfreak
The mix of water and antifreeze is called coolant. A/F also raises the boiling point.
as does the radiator cap 3* per pound of preassure.
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Old 07-21-2006, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longboard
Wait, naive here. Am I understanding this correctly. You mean you don't need antifreeze to make an engine run cooler? Why do they call it coolant? And if I run just water and an additive it will run cooler than with antifreeze?
Check this out
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/et...col-d_146.html
Quote:
Note! The specific heat capacity of an ethylene glycol based water solution is less than the specific heat of clean water. For a heat transfer system the circulated volume must be increased.

In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 oF the specific heat capacity is decreased with aprox. 20%. The reduced specific heat capacity must be compensated by circulating more fluid.
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Old 07-22-2006, 08:43 AM
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Topic has been done many times, see below.

A clue to whether water wetters do what they say they do is that a common recommendation that goes with them is 'reduce or eliminate the a amount of anti-freeze in the coolant mix'. When you reduce the ethylene glycol and replace it with water, of course your cooling will be better. Adding water wetter has zero effect, it's the water that does the work. As Triaged's link suggests, NOTHING is better than water for transferring heat. No material liquid, solid, or gaseous carries as much heat/# as water. IF water wetter by itself works (I still am a HUGE skeptic) it is some other mechanism than surface tension reduction. Look inside a freshly drained radiator top tank and you will see the brass surfaces still coated with a contiguous coat of water. There ain't no surface tension problems there. As long as the water doesn't bead up and not coat the brass, no additive will improve the water/brass contact. You are already transferring as much heat as possible through the water/brass interface if the water sheets and sticks. As I mention as often as possible, the water side of the cooling system is usually not the problem - it's 99% of the time inadequate air flow.

Radiator additives to reduces temperatures

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Old 07-22-2006, 09:40 AM
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My experience to Water WetterŪ is limited to some circle track customers of mine, my own car, and a friend with a blown (6-71 on a 396) '37 Chevy truck. My car and the truck both showed a 10 degree reduction in coolant temp with no other changes than the WW. We both run 50/50 mix (it gets COLD up here and my car is stored in a un-heated car-port). As has been said, there are a lof of factors in what consitutes an effective cooling system and there are different opinions and reasons to run given temperature. If someone was running at a temp slightly higher than desired and wished to lower it without adding a bunch of shrouding or other modifications, WW is a good way to try it. It is cost-effective when it it works and doesn't involve a lot of effort and cost if it doesn't.

tom
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2006, 09:44 AM
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One thing you are not taking into account is the lubrication and corrosion resistance that an additive like Water Wetter offers. Like I said before I prefer Hyper-lube. I have seen how well it prevents corrosion, I could care less about the tension/adhesion deal. It will also raise the boiling point, as mentioned above. Raising the boiling point doesn't mean the car will run cooler, it just helps prevent it from boiling over.
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Old 07-22-2006, 10:44 AM
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Boy, you guys are way over my head and I have a masters degree. After reading all the posts, additonal links, and other posts, I still think the jury is out as to whether it helps or not with the exception of the emperical data (testimonies). I think I'll go to water only and try one brand or another to see for myself. Great discussions and it amazes me how much you guys know!
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-22-2006, 11:50 AM
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Try It for yourself

I have viewed all the posts to this thread, and wetter water works + other products.
I have used several.( In my dirt bikes also-Great for atv's)
Like what was stated,
In my opinion,they all(cooling additive products) seem to work better with more water than antifreeze-Willy's and other's stated
when I run 50/50(antifreeze/water)+ cooling additive= Little change
when I run 70/30 (70-Water 30 antifreeze)+cooling additive= I then noticed cooler temps all across the board.
I agree, the antifreeze is for lube/corrision/freeze protectant
water provides best cooling-One would have to -use distilled water and drain it more often.
as stated
if you are at 185 and do not tow a trailer with your ride
you are cool-(LOL)
A certain amount of heat is needed in the system
for proper operation (I.E. warm up -burn off moisture in oil)
this is just my take on the question guys,........do not quote me and rip me apart
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