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Old 08-28-2005, 04:56 PM
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wax and grease remover - non waterborne bad?

Hey guys

Ran over to the local body shop supply, trying to get some waterborne wax & grease remover. They only had one can in a bulk style container with a no name label saying silicone, wax and tar remover.

On the back warning label it says thinner. Im worried it is a glorified paint thinner. What do you guys think? Is it going to be decent? Are the chemicals in non waterborne cleaner any good? Will it be bad before epoxy primer? Should i was the metal with anything after cleaning it?

Thanks!

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Old 08-28-2005, 05:05 PM
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Sounds like it will be fine, according to the lable.
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Old 08-28-2005, 06:45 PM
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Barry I want SPI stuff badly, but it can only ship hazardous, cant afford 50+ bucks shipping for a 20 dollar gallon of cleaner

Aparently ANYTHING in gallons is hazardous to UPS, wanna make some in quarts?? :p

thanks for the input
mike
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Old 08-28-2005, 07:51 PM
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Go down to the local Wal Mart or whatever you have up there and buy up all their 91% alcohol. I think that is what the majority of the water borne cleaners are anyway.

Vince
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Old 08-28-2005, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302/Z28
Go down to the local Wal Mart or whatever you have up there and buy up all their 91% alcohol. I think that is what the majority of the water borne cleaners are anyway.

Vince
Really? hmm i havent used waterborne stuff yet but im sure it cant be that easy haha.
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Old 08-28-2005, 09:54 PM
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so theoretically i should be able to wipe with this until it is completely clean, then prime right away?
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Old 08-29-2005, 04:02 AM
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Yes but give IT 5-15 minutes just to make sure all the solvent is dry or lightly blow over the metal.
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Old 08-29-2005, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
Yes but give IT 5-15 minutes just to make sure all the solvent is dry or lightly blow over the metal.
I priced a gallon of this stuff from our local PPG jobber and they wanted about as much as a gallon of DX330. I declined and then got on the net and looked up the MSDS. The first ingredient was alcohol, and a lot of it.

Vince
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Old 08-29-2005, 06:41 AM
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I've been using a 50/50 mix of water and rubbing alcohol to do final cleanup before paint but it definately won't remove heavy wax and grease like the solvent based stuff. Bee4me mentioned the 50/50 mix quite awhile back and I now keep it stocked-nice light duty cleaner IMO. Dupont had a waterbased W&G for many years since the late 80's that worked really well, the stuff looked like milk and I used it off and on for a few years. I'm anxious to try the SPI stuff- you know if Barry recomends is the stuff works well. Bob
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Old 08-29-2005, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by baddbob
I'm anxious to try the SPI stuff- you know if Barry recomends is the stuff works well. Bob
Me also, I've got a partial gallon of DX330 left that I will be using to finish prime and blocking the body of my 34. I will be ordering several gallons of SPI water borne cleaner for use applying the base and clear.

Vince
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Old 08-29-2005, 11:30 AM
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If your doing bare metal,Use some acetone.
I've been using HOK's KC 20 lately for post clear sanding on graphic's and it seem's to do a good job but I wouldn't recomend it for pre cleaning.Has a funny warning about "Flammable Water"
Use a spry bottle for applying as it dosen't waste material like dumping it on a rag to wipe down with.
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Old 08-30-2005, 05:05 AM
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Guys,

I know of no such thing in the automotive refinish field as a non-solvent waterborne wax and grease remover.
Most of them are 30-60-% water with alcohol and other solvents.
Remember some things need to listed on an MSDS sheet some things don't, so that will not tell you the full story.

Alcohol and acetone by themselves are just too fast drying and will not do a good job of cleaning the metal.

Alcohol in a waterborne is used for adjusting the dry-time and that will decide how much alcohol is used along with the other cleaners/chemicals.
Did I mention how many different grades of alcohol there is?

On bare metal I just don't think this is an area you want to play with as short term the problem of bad adhesion will not show up but long term
DE-lamination may raise its ugly head and it will be expensive to repair at that point.

Cleaning of paint is another thing all together as since the paint has been sanded worst scenario is you get fish-eyes on the first coat that you apply over the cleaned area.
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Old 08-30-2005, 06:57 AM
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cool, thanks barry

I'll give this stuff a try. I think it may be this repackaged:

http://www.proformproducts.com/en/pr...detail/?id=159

they sell alot of proform stuff, and im guessing the hazardous stuff is repackaged by an importer.

Thanks,
Mike Walsh
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