Weiand 6-71 bolt torque specs - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 10-26-2013, 01:17 PM
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Weiand 6-71 bolt torque specs

I have a Weiand 6-71 that I'm replacing the corroded iron Allen head bolts in the end plates with stainless and can't find the torque specs for them. It's the 5/16x18 bolts front and back and also the small bearing cover (dog bone shape) bolts (3/16x32?) in the rear end. I'd like to have a torque chart for the whole thing but would settle for these values.
Also, as far as anti-seize, would copper coat or permatex #2 be better?

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Old 10-26-2013, 01:58 PM
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I've tried to find this info before and end up pointing the OP to Blower Drive Service's phone number for help. I must not be very good at googling, because I simply cannot find the info on the web.

Here, however is a link that will help some, scroll to the bottom of the page for grade 5 and grade 8 screwed into cast iron and into aluminum.....
Torque specifications for fasteners

I think what I will do if I ever have to fiddle with another Jimmy, is to install studs.

Anti-sieze.....
PERMATEX Anti-Seize Lubricant, 8oz. at West Marine
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Old 10-26-2013, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
I've tried to find this info before and end up pointing the OP to Blower Drive Service's phone number for help. I must not be very good at googling, because I simply cannot find the info on the web.

Here, however is a link that will help some, scroll to the bottom of the page for grade 5 and grade 8 screwed into cast iron and into aluminum.....
Torque specifications for fasteners

I think what I will do if I ever have to fiddle with another Jimmy, is to install studs.

Anti-sieze.....
PERMATEX Anti-Seize Lubricant, 8oz. at West Marine
Same here. I can find the torque specs for changing the snoot and torque to intake manifold but that's it. I called Dyers and they said 25 lb on the 5/16x18 and 10-15 on the little ones but I think that's for 1/4 and mine are 3/16x32 which I believe is refered to as #10-32? I set a good snap-on to 120 inch lb but they felt like it'd strip if I went that high so I stoped.
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Old 10-26-2013, 06:26 PM
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see if this helps

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...99R10244-1.pdf
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:31 AM
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Already had that and it's no help. Mmmm, maybe the NSA knows. lol
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:07 AM
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i just looked at you tube and this guy rebuilding the blower said just get them tight, but if you need specs you will have to make the call .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2feFw6jyqtA
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:18 AM
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Tighten about 1/2 turn before it strips.

Seriously, consulting a fastener torque spec sheet should give you an answer.
Small fasteners can be tricky. Some times a bit of your gut feeling is what you need to use.
Good luck!
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Old 10-27-2013, 11:10 PM
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I found that gr 5 bolts are enough but gr 8 look better.

As far as tightening if it is a cast case or stock case it's more important to tighten the bolts in a group ( rear cover for example) evenly and snug. Most of the bolts in a 6-71 are only 1 diameter deep as opposed to 2-3 dia required for heavy tightening. If you overtighten you surely will strip one sooner or later. The casting is not very strong when threaded. I agree with the studs. Most of the fasteners on my blower are studs. The nuts still work loose but you just have to keep after them.

If you have trouble getting feel for how tight bolts should be get an inch pound torque wrench and start light.

If you use Never-Seize, you will not have to tighten as much due the reduced friction.

It doesn't hurt to have a 5/16 and 3/8 heli coil kit available just in case.

I too did not find much on torque spec. There used to be a pretty good article on the Hamb that had a complete build of a stock 6-71.
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Old 10-28-2013, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blwilliams View Post
Tighten about 1/2 turn before it strips.

Seriously, consulting a fastener torque spec sheet should give you an answer.
Small fasteners can be tricky. Some times a bit of your gut feeling is what you need to use.
Good luck!
Found this torque sheet. Steel Bolt Torque Specifications Table - Engineer's Handbook
Thanks for the info. Notice they are for "dry" bolts. Read somewhere that with anti-seize reduce torque by 30%.
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:08 AM
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Blower Torques from Holly/Weiand

Received this torque chart from Woody at Holly/Weiand. It's for all their blowers.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf blower torque.pdf (30.7 KB, 56 views)
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:29 AM
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Looks like a handy chart, but I wouldn't use their belt tension suggestion, that is going to be WAY too tight.
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Old 11-01-2013, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by camaroman7d View Post
Looks like a handy chart, but I wouldn't use their belt tension suggestion, that is going to be WAY too tight.
What do you set your tension at? Hot or cold?
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Old 11-01-2013, 11:01 AM
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I'd add that the specs to the manifold bolts are different between bolts versus studs. If you use studs, or breakaway studs, then the torque is not the same.

I would not use anti-seize. The intended torque specs for most things are intended as clean and dry. Adding anti-seize will change your torque. By how much depends on the K factor of the product (several variables) but enough to be way outside the mfg's specifications. It will also allow for the preload of the fastener to be lost easily (which means it comes loose much easier). I realize that many like to use it on everything (including lugnuts which is a huge no no) but if you examine tests done and the problems encountered from using it everywhere it really is not a good idea. Dry and clean is the safest method. If threads dirty and gritty, just invest in a set of chasers.

Now if putting stainless into aluminum then yes, you want an antiseize. Preferably with a nickel base or zinc based. It will prevent the cold welding of the materials (ss into aluminum requires caution). Luckily stainless fasteners are indicated in many engine applications (it is much weaker than the coated or uncoated steel bolts). But treated and/or coated steel (ie - stock bolts) into aluminum should be clean and dry.

Absolutely keep anything containing graphite away from aluminum (and similar metals) as it can cause galvanic corrosion. If SS and high heat don't use it either, will cause carburization and ruin the fastener (indicated by seeing the 'red rust' around the SS head).
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Old 11-01-2013, 06:56 PM
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Cool chart

As you can see most of the bolts are far below standard bolt/nut torque values. You don't need a lot of bolt torque on these blowers.

As for belt tension. I have run 8mm belts for a very long time. I have over 20k miles on my current one. i don't even carry a spare as the motor will run without the belt at all. Not fast but you can get home. I set it hot after a good warmup. At least 1/2" easy play. Very subjective. I think loose is better than too tight. It will whine if it is too tight.

If you use aluminum studs on the blower to manifold, best to keep a bunch of spares as these can gall up very easily and usually bust off. That's what they are for. Put some spare nuts in the tool box too as you probably won't be able to separte them inthe field. However on a streetrod driven a lot, steel studs are better in my mind. They won't stretch or gall and can be torqued very evenly which is very important. If you bang a street blower hard enough to cause the studs to stretch or break you really need to study up on tuning and make sure the popoff valve is working.
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