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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2011, 09:14 PM
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Same linkage I have, works great. If you have a automatic, you will have to get an adapter for the tv cable (kick down). I have the Lokar, works good.

I think your 750's would be best, with a 50cc accelerator pump. Just have to boost ref them.

Hard to tell by the pic, but make sure your spacers have vacuum fittings. If not, you will have to drill and tap. That is where you will hook up you brake booster and pcv. I run my booster from the back and the Pcv off the front. I didn't have enough room to hook them up to the carb base plate because of the linkage and the fuel lines. Shop on eBay for the stainless fuel lines. I saved a ton. Weiand wanted 300.00, I got the for 120.00 (new)..

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-31-2011, 11:10 PM
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2 750 Holley dp manifold ref blower carbs will work right out of the box on a 355 sbc. Exactly what I have. There is 15k miles on them now with now problem at all.

They may be just a tad rich but a couple jet sizes down will work wonders for gas mileage.

A couple of Quick Fuel metering blocks will give you major adjustability. Be sure to order them direct and tell them your set up.

You should have a sweet running motor. Keep the CR well under 9:1

A very good addition will be a good air/fuel ratio gage.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2011, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOlowrider
Same linkage I have, works great. If you have a automatic, you will have to get an adapter for the tv cable (kick down). I have the Lokar, works good.

I think your 750's would be best, with a 50cc accelerator pump. Just have to boost ref them.

Hard to tell by the pic, but make sure your spacers have vacuum fittings. If not, you will have to drill and tap. That is where you will hook up you brake booster and pcv. I run my booster from the back and the Pcv off the front. I didn't have enough room to hook them up to the carb base plate because of the linkage and the fuel lines. Shop on eBay for the stainless fuel lines. I saved a ton. Weiand wanted 300.00, I got the for 120.00 (new)..
My carb baseplate adapter has two screw in vacuum nipples so I am good there. They are in the rear and since I am going to run 1" spacers I will not have a clearance issue. I saw those fuel lines on Ebay! Great deal if you ask me. Do you like the quality? Can you post a picture of how you connected your throttle cable to the Enderle bracket? Thanks!
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2011, 07:50 AM
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Make sure there are 1/8 npt ports on either side of the base plates....you may want to install a water/alcohol injector later.
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Old 08-01-2011, 02:34 PM
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I am very pleased with the fuel lines. The only issue I had, and it's not with the fuel lines is that when I installed the coupler into the fuel inlet my fuel bowl (2 of them) cracked. Over time the fuel bowls became brittle. I replaced them with aluminum ones and issue was fixed. As with any rigid fuel line, it took some tweaking to get them to stop dripping. I ditched the supplied aluminum crush gasket and it was solved. No problems now.

It hard to see i the pic, but my booster line goes into the spacer on the back and the pcv goes into the carb base plate (pic 2). The linkage blocked the pcv from the space on the frontr. On the other side the spacer nipple is capped off. I removed the booster line for the pic.

I had to put spacers under the linkage base plate to clear tall valve covers. I since have removed those covers, so I am going to lower the linkage back down.

Hope these help. If you have anymore questions, just let me know. These pics really make my engine look like crap, but it really is polished and clean. Crappy camera I guess.





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Old 08-01-2011, 03:01 PM
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Edelbrock boost referencing

I just thought I'd share how I "boost referenced" a friend's Edelbrocks with some pics. His blown engine is still alive today!!
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2011, 04:14 PM
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Thank you!

You guys are awesome! Thanks for all of the pictures. It really helps.

I have another question. It looks like my right valve cover interferes with the blower intake. I am running Dart heads and they have a raised rail. My valve covers are polished cast aluminum. The right side actually hits the blower studs and I cannot remove it without unscrewing the studs. Can I just cut the portion that hangs under the intake off?



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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2011, 04:21 PM
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Sure, I had the same issue with mine, you're using the correct aluminum studs I assume? My problem was more with fabricated valve covers hitting along the sides.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2011, 04:46 PM
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Do you have the intake manifold gaskets on? Can't tell from the pic. I have heard of people that shaved the bottom of the intake off.

Fel-pro 1256 intake gasket is reccomended for the SBC. It is pretty thick to bring that intake up some.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2011, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOlowrider
Do you have the intake manifold gaskets on? Can't tell from the pic. I have heard of people that shaved the bottom of the intake off.

Fel-pro 1256 intake gasket is reccomended for the SBC. It is pretty thick to bring that intake up some.
I do have the intake gaskets on in the pic. They are Felpro 1205's to match the ports on the Dart heads. Looks like I have some grinding to do.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-01-2011, 07:57 PM
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Just cut the studs off a little. They don't see much torque. You may even have to grind a bit of angle on the manifold like I did.

VC fasteners are another story. I have a nut driver that carry in the car for tightening them. the driver side top ones are tough to get to with this linkage....but possible. do carry extra nuts. I also modified a socket with a magnet siliconed into it. ARP I think makes a neat aluminum tall nut for about $12 a set of 4.

Those are nice lines. I use the other type for a bit cleaner look but they don't fit as nice as these do.

This is what we all use.
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