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Old 01-19-2006, 11:03 PM
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Thnx 57

It seems to like a lot of advance and the Vacuum guage moves right to where it need to be. No ping. I'm feeling better. Thnx

Nice car, by the way.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2006, 04:02 PM
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wierd distributor problems

akbat-I moved the wires counterclockwise; and then rotated the dist.clockwise to make up the difference. Also, on a similar note, a friend of mine is putting a showcar together and had it running and for some strange reason his distributor (pertronics replacing the points) the center carbon electrode in the cap disintegrated itself. This was after he had fired the engine and broke in the cam, and started it several times after that. He replaced it with a Mallory points distributor and it wouldn't even try to fire.The original dist. had a vac. pod and the mallory didn't so he guessed where to set it initially.He lives quite a ways from me so we tried everything I could think of.It had spark,was getting gas, 12v to coil,he had an induction timing light, so I even had him check each plug wire with it and the light flashed on all of them.Out of desperation I told him to advance the distributor as far as he could and try it-just to see if it would at least backfire -it started right up! It doesn't make sense why it didn't even try to fire before, but food for thought.
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Old 01-20-2006, 05:32 PM
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Could be that your Harmonic Balancer is from a 305 and then your marks would then be off 12* making you think distributor is off.
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Old 06-21-2008, 05:14 AM
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How did it go....

Hi

did moving the cables solve your problem? I have the same problem with my CSB Goodwrench Longblock so maybe its not a problem, more of a feature. To what use is hard to say.

Ok, this topic is very old and untouched for some time so my hopes to get a reply is not that great.
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Old 06-21-2008, 05:46 AM
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This thread is somewhat antique.

01-13-2006, 11:13 AM

Why not start a new one with your particular problem ?
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IgnitionMan
.090 shaft clearance between shaft and base plate??? .009 possibly.

One of my precious jobs was working qt Holley, bandsawing Holley Dominators in half and wideneing them for Pro-Stock racers. The most successful ones used teflon bushings in that areas, NOT a sloid metal one.

What I have found on Q-jets is, the actual "bushing to shaft" interface area is quite small, and inwards towords the sidewalls if the throttle bores. When the base plate wears, there is a larger than the bushing diameter area on both sides of the throttle shaft, that have not been damaged.

Whenever I do a Q-jet baseplate, I find that the larger areas in the base plate, and the shaft have NOT been touched by the wear. What I do is cut srtips of .014 teflon to fit the bored areas of the baseplate. I have measured bouches of Q-jet baseplates and found that htis large bore area to shaft is .030 overall, .015 per "side". It is simple to insert the teflon into the unworn area between plate and shaft.

I use new throttle plate screws as well, button head Allen screws, staked and Lock-tite'd into place.

I find the solid bushings need way too much clearance to not bind when the carb is torqued down to its proper 60 inch pound torque, that is 5 foot pounds of bolt to manifold torque, not the usual impact wrench to 200 foot pounds torque I usually see on one of those carbs. The solid bushings still leak after install, but the teflon doesn't leak nearly at all, and the throttle action is one heck of a lot smoother.

Hi Ingnitionman,

I was pointed in the direction of this post #9 by someone from another forum (ray_mcavoy from the 67-72chevytrucks.com forum).

Do you have any pictures of these teflon bushing you did?

I am having a probmem with my Quadrajet, that the throttle does not return all the way, when the engine is warm and running. It DOES return when the engine is cold and off...I already checked fast idle cam, throttle cable etc....just didnt take the carb of yet to check for any other obstructions. Bet then I would need t check it without the engine running...and since it returns just fine without the engine running...it would be very hard to find wat is causing it..

so I guess these teflon mod would help, but also any advise would be greatly welcome

(sorry for my english, I am Dutch)...
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