[matt167]

I couldn't find the specs when I did them and just tightened them till I felt they were properly torqued.. oil pump bolts arn't critical as to the torque. the gasket will make up any torque diffrence, and as long as there torqued, there won't be an issue

[74chevyflat]

thnx progress is as follows oil pan finally removed after countless tries of double jacking on both ends without pulling motor. even though it would've been easier. the oil pan has shavings in it. the rod bearing have about .025 play. two rods only are in this condition. the crankshaft end play is within tolerance. no play in main bearings just rods. gonna replace all bearings checking for damage and galling / dragging on crankshaft journal. what should i do to prepare the mating surfaces for break in. and how do i break in these bearings? Is there a certain rpm i have to have it set at. i know using deisel engine oil for assembly is ok.any further help would be great. thank you.

[74chevyflat]

replaced all the bearings. and number 1 cylinder bearing had been smashed out and around the rod journal. they all were showing copper. didnt take any pics because my hands were so nasty. but i found shavings in the sludge on the oil pan. it didnt really have much sludge. most of it was in the dimple for the oil pump. I had run sea foam in the engine a week or two ago. . the pickup screen had sludge particles and cakes lodged in it i spread it apart and cleaned it all up inside the tube flange and everything.

One minor note. the number one cylinder may need repair on the crankshaft. it still knocks at 2000 rpm. not as hard as it did though.

[Caballerokid]

i had a slight nock at idle but would go away when reving the engine up slightly. It was a 280ZX turbo that had been very well taken care of and has 110k on it as well... inline 6... Anyways... I popped the oil pan off with engine still in the car and everything was beautiful inside the engine. I have never seen an engine so nice and clean nearl brand new inside! I checked the rod and main bearings which seemed to be in pretty good shape, no copper showing. I mic'ed the crank rods and mains and all were dead on to manufacturers specs. I replaced all the bearings and even used ARP rod studs and still have the same noise... I am now looking at the lifters are bleeding down at idle or the oil pump volume is weak. Luck for me the oil pump is external to the engine on these! Just for thought tho...