I think you're right on about the 20w50 oil having a hard time flowing when cool, which would cause oil starvation when first started. I've seen it first hand here allot (I live in NY, and it DOES get cold here) Ditto on the drain back issues, especially if/when it hits the rotating crank, lots of oil above, but little below until things warm up. I've also seen pushrod, rocker, and valve train damage from thicker oils. I think if you need 20w50 to maintain oil pressure it's time for a rebuild, or the clearances are loose to start with. Of course, if your engine builder recommends 20w50, than you should use it, because he is the one who built the engine, so he probnably knows what he's talking aboout. The best answer to this may be to ask your Engine Builder what he/she reccomends and uses themself. Personally I use 10w30 Valvoline to break in new engines, and the first time out or first 300 miles (depending on engine application). After break in, I use Mobil 1 in all the engines and cars I build/own. I tear down and rebuild at least a dozen race engines every winter and can tell which guys are using the synthetic and which ones are not from wear and buildup. The difference is amazing. I can't see using an oil with a low number lower than 10, unless it's in a 4 banger, but lots of racers I know like the Castrol Syntec and run it all year. I do know that after your engine is broken in, synthetic oils are better against wear, heat and breakdown than regular motor oils (I fail to see how anyone could argue with this). I would say that your reasoning is sound and makes sense. I can't think of any drawbacks to switching to a synthetic oil other than cost. 2 more cents. :-)
[ November 26, 2002: Message edited by: Airport Towing ]</p>
|