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Old 09-16-2003, 03:01 PM
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Weird stamping codes need help!

This is for a chevy smallblock in my friends 87 Z28, its not the original engine and the last owner stated it had a 350 put in it and had only about 16k miles on it. Well I checked the suffix codes but the middle one was missing for some reason. So i'm working on swapping a cam and intake for him and decide to check the serial codes on the back of the block. Well they look pretty weird. Here is the first one: GM S./LG and the second is SG1. What do these codes mean? I'v never seen any like this. I hope its not a 305 which the LG would seem to mean LG4, if thats the case we got to have a little chat with the seller. It runs great but needs a set of valve seals and it runs very strong. And I know the engine was replaced with an older perimeter style head engine. But need to know if its a 305 or 350. The suffix code I can read is U-A but can't see the middle one, its just been ground off or something. But all I can figure from that is that its a 305 or a 350. Thanks for any input! Let me know if I need to check for numbers elsewhere on the block, not sure where they would be though.

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Old 09-16-2003, 03:27 PM
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The "U*A" code could be either a 305 or a 350 according to my references. Those other codes don't make any sense. There should be a casting code of 7 or so numbers on the top left rear of the block.
Failing everything else, you'll have to pull a head and measure the bore...unless someone out there has a better suggestion.
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Old 09-16-2003, 03:47 PM
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I found the right numbers, their actually on the passenger side on this engine. According to the mortec site its a 87-95 350. Which might mean disaster! I told my friend to get a 57-86 cam because the heads I know are pre-87 and don't have the canted bolt holes or the center bolt covers. If it doesn't have roller lifters is this Comp Cams XE262 cam going to work? I really hope so or i'm going to feel real bad about telling him to get the wrong cam.
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Old 09-16-2003, 06:19 PM
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I've got a '92 350 that came with a flat tappet cam. Your cam should be ok with the proper lifters and pushrods.
Your pre-87 heads are ok too as long as you use the older style intake and valve covers.
Really the only difference for your purposes is that the engine has the one piece rear seal.
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Old 09-16-2003, 09:08 PM
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I believe that you can go from roller valve train to hydraulic without any maching, just a new cam, lifters, pushrods, and maybe new springs. I just know you can't go the other way (if infact your block is a roller setup"

On the 350 truck blocks of that era, the block was milled to accept roller valvetrain, but they just used hydraulic cams.
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