I have this aluminum cooler that I want to use in front of the radiator for my transmission . It has hose ends where you can slip 3/8 hose over and clamp.I want to use AN fittings with steel braided hose . I already have some steel male 06 (weld on) fittings .
My question is , what do I use to fasten them ? which type of solder ?, or brazing
I have a welder (MIG) but I cant weld aluminum . Any help would be appreciated
Thanks Doug

I had the same problem awhile ago with power steering and couldn't find anything. I surfed the Eaton Aeroquip site today and found this:

http://hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/ja19.pdf

The Lifesaver is a fitting designed to be siver brazed to a tube, with AN threads on the other end. You might have a little trouble finding them, you will probably need an industrial distributor like McMaster-Carr -- Eaton probably has a distributors list on their site too.

Now I now how I am going to redo those power steering hoses when it gets warm enough to work. Let us know how it goes.

Well you cannot weld steel to aluminum I don't think and I don't think you can silver braze on aluminum either. What you need is a aluminum adapter fitting that you can weld (with the proper equipment) on to the aluminum cooler.

Henry is right. You can't weld aluminum to steel. You need to find an aluminum fitting and have it TIG welded onto your cooler. If there is room you may be able to drill thread and tap for the steel fitting. Without pictures it's hard to recommend a way to get it done.

royce

Thanks guys , I guess the TIG is the best way . and I dont have acess to one , Let me ask you this .
Is that the only way to join two peices of aluminum ?
Sorry I cant put up some pictures , I don't know how to do that either ?

I found some alumium fittings

TIG is not the only way to join two pieces of aluminum, but it is by far the best way. What part of CA are you in? It may be cheaper to just buy another cooler that has female NPT (national pipe threads) in it. That way you can just screw in your AN fitting.

Royce

Well those coolers are not cheap Royce , but I will do what I have to.
, Gilroy CA. not all that far from Vacaville.
Thats one bad *** Camaro you have !
Doug

Thanks for the compliment. I sold that car about a year ago to a guy in L.A. I am building a new car now, hope to have it done for this years cruising/racing season.

I agree the tranny/engine coolers aren't cheap, but if you ruin that one you will have to buy another one anyway. Sometimes it's cheaper to just do it right the first time. If you get the fittings (aluminum) you should be able to take it to a welding shop and for less than $50 have the fittings welded in for you.

I have a brother down in your neck of the woods. There are quite a few hot rods down there, too.

Don't know if Swagelok or Hoke make it, but a standard compression fitting with a AN adapter might work.

Vince

Thanks Vince , I allready have the adapter or fitting , we were just trying to figure out the best way to fasten the fittings to the cooler ?

Standard plumbing solder should work fine. The line going to the cooler won't have high pressure in it. Ever sweat soldered a joint? Use a high silver content solder for best strength. The solder will hold about the same pressure as the aluminum lines -- should be good for around 150-200 psi. I've seen air lines with soldered hard copper tubing.

This you do with a propane torch. Just be careful not to get the aluminum up to the melting point.

1. Make sure the fitting is a good fit on the line. Doesn't have to be real tight, but shouldn't be much gap.
2. Put a little flux on the aluminum and in the fitting then heat until the flux runs/melts.
3. Slide the fitting on, then heat the fitting, NOT the aluminum tube. Move the torch around so that the fitting is heated all around, not just one side.
4. Touch the solder to the joint once you think it's hot enough. If it is, the solder will not only melt but suck up in the joint. You touch it and feel the solder melt (use slight pressure, pushing the solder toward the joint), then the solder just disappears. Do this all around the joint, shouldn't take but a minute once the fitting is hot.
5. You will need a propane or butane torch. An iron won't work.

I don't think silver solder will hold it. Sure you can sweat copper, but I have never heard of doing that on aluminum. They do make a special rod for aluminum, but it can be tricky to get the heat right. The problem is once you contaminate it, you won't be able to get it TIG welded. 99.9% of the time it is cheaper and easier to do the job right the first time.

Oh Well ? Now I don't Know what to do .

I'm going to do a few tests on some scrap material , I'll let you know how it turns out .
Doug