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Just what does design load and spring rate mean? Does the design load mean that's how much max weight should be on 1 spring? and most of the springs I've looked at have at least 1 tangential end which means I'm going to have to cut one or maybe 2 ends off. Since my old springs were around 11 1/2" '(actually 1 was 11 3/4" and 1 was 11 3/8") do you think if I would cut the new ones to 11" It might be a starting point. I know this is touchy,and it would be nice not to have to take them back off and cut them again,and no good to cut too much at first----I just thought maybe 11" because the old ones are a little higher than that and the new ones will probably be stronger---MAYBE even 10"--I don't want them to rub,but I hate big fender gaps
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Yes, the design load is the weight per spring it is intended to carry at the load height(compressed amount). Rate is the amount that will compress the spring 1". For say a 200 lb/in spring if 400 lbs is placed on it it will compress 2".
I wouldn't cut them shorter than what you have now, they will settle some after a little use. Only thing you can do is trial and error, and I know iit is a pain, but no pain, no gain
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Spring caclculator
This is simple math use the formula I posted earlier or go to this link CALCULATOR
. You say that the car weighs 2400 on average 70 percent is up front 1680 or 840 per wheel so just calculate your spring compression use the calculator until you reach the magic number and you have it. This works for any normal a-frame setup, geometry only comes into effect on long a-arms like on a off road buggy or truck. I would say design load would be up to the manufacture I do know that the main manufactures of springs like Eaton, Moog and others use a per spring rating not pairs. |
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I don't know if I'm just dumb or what,but can't seem to understand formula's. And I've been getting all kind of conflicting advise
This is what Eaton told me The HD Corvair spring has a rate of 188 lbs and the lightest M2 spring has a rate of 308 lbs. Cutting the M2 would increase the rate. So useing an M2 spring is not an option. Now what realy causes you trouble is replacing the Corvair spring. I have looked over the specs of the nearly 600 coil part number we have and none of them even come close to what would work for you. We have not made any for yeas. And I do not know anyone who is making them. We have had some calling for them but not enough to justify making any. We need to make at least 50 springs to get the price affordable. I told them it was not a corvair,but a 26 T with a 350/350 and thats what they came up with |
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Have you tried Clark's Corvair Parts, or looked for any Corvair clubs online?? Clubs usually list links to parts services or have classifieds just like here at HR's.
I took a quick look at Clarks, they do list some in their catalog. www.corvair.com |
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Just want to give a big thumbs-up to amx180mph for his advice on the springs! checked with the "spring guru" expert at Eaton and he agreed totally that the ones that amx180mph recommended was the best match out of 800+ springs that they make !--but they want $159.00 at napa only $43.99. not trying to cheap out,but can't believe Eaton's are 3 times better???
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I noticed that there was a mention of a shorter control arm? That WILL affect ride height with a given spring, maybe switch sides with the springs?
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OK
I got the springs in--I cut 1 1/2 coils off and the darn thing is sitting like a gasser!!! got 3 1/2" maybe 4" of fender gap. Now what I want to know before I take them back out to cut more is this. Say that I want it 2" lower than it is should I measure how much 2" is on the springs while they are in the car in their compressed state and cut that much off??
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