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Old 08-08-2006, 06:02 PM
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Welder parts

Well my welder stated acting up, First the cooling fan went away. Now the wire feed motor or printed circuit board is getting weird. It has intermittant feed problems. It will weld ok for a bit 1 or 2 minutes then start sputtering than the wire stops. I can figure out which is going away easy enough, but what I am really wondering is if there is an online store somewhere that sells Lincoln parts that won't gouge me?

Anyone had any experience with someplace like that?

my welding supply can get them but they are sure proud of those parts.

My MIG is a century that I bought in '89 but Lincoln bought them and has all the parts available.

I really don't feel like TIG welding all the stuff on the chrysler.

Thanks for reading this, mikey

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Old 08-08-2006, 06:15 PM
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When my wire feed does like that its usually a acumulation of dust grit etc. in the cable jacket. I can pull my wire out of it, then pull the liner out of the cable and blow it all out good with a air hose, run some WD-40 down the liner, put it all back together and its good to go for awhile. I have found that the spool of wire ( I use the big ones) gets dirty and dusty when not in use and then when I use the welder it pulls all that crap into the jacket. I mounted a pied of foam rubber and ran the wire through it right before it goes into the cable. This works great as it wipes the wire clean before it goes into the cable.
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Old 08-08-2006, 07:25 PM
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Thanks Henry
I just replaced the liner a few months ago, and I always have a bit of scotchbrite pad held on the wire with a clothespin.
A 30# roll lasts me about 6 months.
I just blew the dust out with a blowgun also.

The motor stops and goes even when i have the pinch roller undone from the wire. That should eliminate any thing to do with the spool or liner.

I narrowed it down in the last hour to the circuit board. I hooked a VOM on it and when the wire feed roller wheel isn't turning it is because there is no voltage going to it. I wiggle the connector and it will work again. I checked the connector and it seems ok. I think it is a crack in the PC board. I was just getting ready to check that and my VOM battery went dead. I'm not sure I can solder it anyway. It has some kind of plastic coating on it.
WAAAAA!
where is my brownies?

Hey, do those big round things inside the welder case have a charge in them when the welder is unplugged? I'm going to try NOT to touch them.

thanks for reading this,
Mikey
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Old 08-08-2006, 08:35 PM
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"Big round things" Do you mean capacitors?
Yes they hold a charge after it has been unplugged and can send you across the room. You can safely discharge them, there are guides online for TV repair that will tell you how to do this.

There is a chance that there is a cold solder joint on the control board, which is easily repaired by reflowing the solder joint. I don't know exactly what you mean by "plastic coating", can you see the solder joints or are they coated too? If you can see them, chances are you can solder them. I am thinking the board may be silk screened, in which case you should have no problem soldering to it.
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Old 08-08-2006, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
Hey, do those big round things inside the welder case have a charge in them when the welder is unplugged? I'm going to try NOT to touch them.

thanks for reading this,
Mikey

Go ahead, set the brownies down, then grab a hold of one of those capacitors. It'll only tickle for a split second....


Reminds me of a good many years ago down at my parent's farm. One of the neighbors had a silo unloader electric motor that he dropped of for my dad to have a look at because he couldn't get it to work. When dad got home after work, he caught me before I electofried myself on either of the 2 capacitors that were roughly 3 or 4 inches in diameter. Probably would have fried myself but good with that....


In a while, Chet.
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Old 08-08-2006, 09:23 PM
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Thanks chet, elliot
I was making a funny about those caps. It has been a long time since I caught a buzz though.
We used to charge them up and leave them on the table in electronics class to watch when some kid picked them up.

Anyway
The plastic coating is like a clear varnish or something. I'll bet they painted it on because it is a PC board in a welder and could be exposed to metallic dust and stuff that will short it out. I can probe the board through it and it is clear. I pulled the board and the little offending wiring harness out and will mess around with it some more at home . I had it in the machine under power and could make the feed motor stop and go just by bending the board @ the pin connector.

Those big caps were right under my hand. I wasn't skeered

I gotta put my tight eye magnifying spectacles on and go searching.

I should probably still seek out a new board.
Does anyone know of a good place to get this kind of stuff online?

Here is how I fixed my cooling fan issue. (until the new one comes in)
450 CFM dual impeller adapted from a vent hood. WHOO HOO.
I hotrodded my welder

later, mikey
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Old 08-09-2006, 06:26 AM
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If you can find a crack in the trace just use a razor blade and scrape the coating off. Scrape at a ninety degree just using the edge. You may need a mag. glass to find the crack. Be carefull as you might lift the trace. Then using an acid free flux, solder a jumper wire over the crack then seal it with clear finger nail polish. Check the connector. The female side of the connector. You may have to squeeze the inputs in a little. Hope this helps you out. Cheers!!!
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Old 08-09-2006, 06:30 AM
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keep screwing around, i'll bet you can get her up to at least 80% duty cycle...

don't know of a place to get the circuit boards online, but i bet you could build a new one easy enough.....
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Old 08-09-2006, 07:54 AM
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Thanks 46chev
I resoldered all the pin connects on the side that was messing up, I couldn't find any cracks. though I did try probing for continuity while bending the board around. (with my luck I probably put some cracks in hahaha)

Yeah larry, Like minds lay in the same gutter. I could immerse the whole unit in silicone oil and get'er up to 100% duty.
I know I'm treading the fine line between being mr fixit and just being stupid.
I already found both IC chips online(the're motorolas, all the rest of the stuff looks like the stuff in the drawers at radio shack. Now if I get out my stock of unetched circuit board and my india ink ( I do have some)and spend 27 hours.............The new board is only 150.00 at the welding supply.
I found one in an ebay store for only 169.00.

for now I'll just leave the side of the welder off so's I can wiggle the connector .

later, mikey



later, mikey
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Old 08-09-2006, 05:19 PM
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Doc here,

Is this an EDGE Card connector?

If so..Try this..

Pull the circuit card..get some GOOD contact cleaner..and a pencil Eraser, Clean ALL the traces on the edge card backplane that go into the connector with the eraser, Then Wash down with the contact Cleaner..

Set that aside, and let it dry while you attack the edge card connector (female hardwired side)..Get a GOOD Burnishing tool, Burnish all the pins Carefully on the connector..until they are nice and shiny..Then wash down with the contact cleaner..

NEXT and the most important Step..get a Dental pick (rat shack..a few bucks) And CAREFULLY pull the edge card connector pins outward..to expand or "Bow" Them out in the center..Be careful when you do this..If you Yank too hard .. you can rip the pins from the Free Floating side, and they may short when you insert the card..use small amount of pull to "bow" them out..

Reinstall the card and test the mutha...

Sounds like you have a working card, with dirty pins/card inserts, and one or more pins collapsed slightly, loosing contact as "Stuff" moves..Common computer type Failure..I could see it easily applying to a welder card..

Doc
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Old 08-09-2006, 06:10 PM
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Thanks Doc

It has three 6 pin inline connectors, and a couple of pairs of spade connectors. I checked all the connects, they are all good. Nice and shiney and tight. I reinstalled it after re soldering the board where the pins go in, like elliot suggested. and it is still doing it. I am at a loss as I couldn't trace the intermittant dieelectric gap.., with the board out of the welder. It may be in one of the IC chips or who knows. I know that when the motor is running and pulling wire the output voltage fluctuates .2-.5 volts and the wire speed fluctuates along with it. It is a variable speed dc motor that drives the wire in that setup..
I ordered a new card today and hopefully the old one will get me through this job. I know that when these cards go south they act intermittantly good/bad for a while and then crap out.

I priced a new 210 lincoln and they are 1400.
Not going there right now. I could put a wire feeder on my TIG but it is such a fat hog to drag next to a car.

Thanks for reading AND replying!

Mikey
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