Hot Rod Forum banner

welder reccomendations?

35K views 32 replies 10 participants last post by  paulerow 
#1 ·
hey folks. im getting ready to get a welder finally. i know little to nothing about welding but i dont really care. ive never had a guitar lesson - that doesnt stop me from crankin out the noise.
so anyways just want some ideas and preferences. ill be buying a house soon and im pretty broke. a inexpensive solution is preferred. im looking hard at dual migs, like a 130 or so. something that runs off 110.

so what brands are the favs?

sound like a good starter size?

cant wait to screw some junk up! ha ha

( we need more smiles or graphix on here)
 
#2 ·
1. decide if you want a welder to play with or to do work with

2. figure out how much you can spend on said welder

3. take the amount in #2 and multiply by 2.5

4. take amount in #3 and add $100 for S&H and or other supplies like a helmet

5. buy a welder or don't

I am sure most here will say look at harbor freight, Hobart is good, Miller is good, Lincoln is good...

I would take a Millermatic 135 any day; however, as I have no real projects to work on and no idea how to weld I simply cannot justify the cost of something like that.
 
#3 ·
3. take the amount in #2 and multiply by 2.5

ha ha thanks... i got a stud welder from harbor freight.. anyonne know if chigago electric makes ecent welders?
i burnt up the stud welder a few times i keep having to pull it apart and sand it to operate properly - im not sure if this is normal because im screwing up or if its a defective product ??

im thinking 400$

i have a trike to rake out for starters, also i would like to do as much body work with metal as possible. ill put it to use.
 
#4 ·
Lincoln offers nice hobby-welders at a pretty good price and quality.
I got the Lincoln Handycore 100 (I think) wire feed with flux cored wire (no tanks required) and it works very good so far.
If you really want the tanks there is the same model availabe with the adapter kit for tanks.





Mike
 
#5 ·
If you plan on welding heavier sections like frame rails or roll cages, any 110 volt unit will be marginal. 220 is a much better choice.
A true MIG with gas setup is almost a requirement. Flux cored wire makes relatively dirty welds and is no good for sheet metal work.
A used brand-name rig is better than a new off-brand one. Brand names in my book are Miller, Hobart, and Lincoln.
Many welding supply houses often take trade-ins and can be a source for the budget minded.
If you figure out what you want, there are a lot of welders sold on eBay. Do some homework first so you'll recognize the decent ones. Remember to figure shipping if you are not buying something local.
 
#7 ·
welder reccomendations ?

I my self prefer Hobart "made my miller" and the company
that I deal with doesn't charge for shipping ( FREE STANDARD GROUND SHIPPING ON ALL ITEMS FEATURED ON THIS SITE WITHIN THE CONTINENTAL U.S. ) " that's a plus!".

I have the Hobart 135 mig 115volts (I have no problem welding 1/4"+ steel.)and the airforce 400 plasma cutter that works on 115 or 230 volts.( I have no problem cutting 1/2" steel.)Both units are priced below any one else. "and did I mention free shipping ?"

What ever you do don't buy a small machine to start with, go for the extra bucks "buy it one time".

On most smaller migs and plasma cutters the power cord is light weigh, changing the cord & plug with an separate receptacle near the power panel makes a world of difference how the machine will perform.

Auto darkening welding helmets: I had a few and the best one I found to work best for me is the shade master, big bucks but well worth it . (nothing to adjust)

Shade Master Technical data :
Light state Shade DIN 3 Dark state Shade DIN 11 Active viewing area 90 x 35 mm Detection TOP™
TIG Optimierter, Photosensor Switching time 0.0006 s Clearing time automatic 0.1 - 1.0 s Energy supply solar powered UV/IR protection CE (EN 379) Water, dustproof IP 68 Operating temperature -10 °C to +70 °C Expected lifetime 10 years Maintenance no battery - change Manufacture made in Switzerland Warranty 2 years Patents EP'550'384 US Pat.5'315'099


:D
 
#8 ·
Had a Dayton 80 amp mig with gas, waste of money. I researched the big 3 and HTP on the net. The HTP had a better duty cycle and amp rating and better internals. It works wonderfully, and it has stitch & spot settings. Check them out www.usaweld.com
 
#9 ·
welder reccomendations

Toyman said:
Had a Dayton 80 amp mig with gas, waste of money. I researched the big 3 and HTP on the net. The HTP had a better duty cycle and amp rating and better internals. It works wonderfully, and it has stitch & spot settings. Check them out www.usaweld.com






I guess they may foot the bill for some.
However, most of the dealers in my area
don't carry parts for generic machines.

Check out http://www.cyberweld.com

;)
 
#10 · (Edited)
thx

i figured i would get a response from that question. thanks ppl.
i was thinking hobart would be a good welder.. just by looking at it and the price.

i think a 135 would be great. any concerns?

even when i rake the trike, or if i do frame work...
it should be sufficient if i practice and get good with it huh? i mean - i should have to much of a prob if i know what im doing?

well i got so many helpful answers out of that question...

anyone know of a good stock to buy? msft is too close to its 52 wk high, - wmt and xom are too expensive... lol im just playing people dont throw a fit.

thanks again for the input and links.

r4r
( i forgot, im looking for versatility here. like - could i use a normal welder as a plasma cutter - just by putting a different peice on it? or would i be able to tig weld with a mig welder? i really just wanna buy one welder. -impossible?-maybe even one that does the work for me .)
 
#12 ·
nevermind

you guys can keep answering my retarded questions, im sure ill learn something.

just wanted to let you kno i picked up a new hobart 140 handler on ebay for 430$.

hope it works out for me, im pretty excited about learning.


r4r
 
#14 ·
no it was free man.

the unit was 30 something dollars cheaper than anywhere else. cyberweld was the best bet otherwise.

so - i can weld aluminum and steel? or just steel with it?

thanks - r4r
 
#16 ·
cool

so i just have to use aluminum wire? also you must sheild the weld with gas when welding aluminum? or its just preffered?

did you mean to post a link or were your making a refrence?

thanks
 
#18 ·
Some things to remember when welding aluminum.

Make sure the aluminum is clean of all grease, dirt, etc., by using a degreaser/solvent. Before you weld you must remove the oxide on the surface using a stainless steel brush that cannot be used for other metals otherwise it contaminates the welds or us an oxide cleaner.

If you store aluminum in cold places you should bring it up to room temperature, eliminating condensation. Do not heat cold metal with an oxyacetylene torch (which is a common practice, but not a good idea). This can introduce carbon into the oxide coating.

At the end of the weld you should keep the gas on the weld bead for about 15 - 20 seconds to prevent cracking.
 
#20 ·
I also have never welded before, but just got a '78 formula that I need to put a quarter on. (hince an excuse to buy more tools :) I've been reading some and am thinking about a Miller 135. Would that work for frame work as well as sheet metal? I doubt I would do anything that heavy, but just incase I get ambitious.
 
#21 ·
I think pure argon is required for MIG welding aluminum. I know that's what I have to use to TIG it.

The Millermatic 135 is one of the better 120 volt welders. It would do light frame work but you might need to do multi-pass welding occasionally. The 240 volt 175 is a better choice if you have the wiring to support it. It will have a heavier single-pass capacity and the larger welders are usually very smooth a low currents.

So, if you need a 120 volt unit, the Miller is a good choice.
 
#22 ·
right

100% argon for welding aluminum, and 75% argon 25% CO2 for solid wire. - at least thats what it says on the inside of the welder.

whats the biggest wire the hobart 140 will take?

also whats the deal with the gas? it shows in the manual that it plugs into the back of the welder. does the gas travel trhu the handle ?? like i just plug in the gas and turn on the regulator valve.?

weird - i pictured it as gas in one hand - welder in the other lol.

someone clue me in please.

thanks r4r
 
#23 ·
Having bought a Lincoln 175 Tig and a 125SP Mig(6 years old,now), I have not had a problem with either. To do it over, I would stick with the 175, but go alittle heavier on the mig. The manual says it will to 5/16". As easy as mig is, I wish I could do 1/2" single pass. I still stick weld anything 1/4" or better. I just trust the penetration more than the mig.

Think about your purchase before buying.

1.) Buy a P.O.S., and what do you have? P.O.S.
even if you don't use it, you will get ZERO resale.
If you keep it, you will always want to upgrade it.

2.) Buy the best you can buy, and if you ever decide to bail, you can resell in a heartbeat. You will RARELY ever upgrade the best you can buy. You only have to buy it once. Money saved in the long run!
 
#26 ·
crap 4x4

do i need a degree to understand that?

ill be back to look at that later, like years later when im old enough to understand it.


ha ha thanks 4x4.

so braising is braising, gas is gas and can be shielded, and mig is metal electrode arc welding.

can we get a scientist in here?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top