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Old 12-08-2005, 01:47 PM
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Welder Ye or Ne

Guys I am just getting started on my car.
I need a decent welder to install new floor pans and other small repairs, no major welding.

I was wanted to get anyones thoughts about a small welder like this one on ebay.

Link ==>
http://cgi.ebay.com/CRAFTSMAN-WIRE-F...QQcmdZViewItem


Thanks for you info
Mustang_Tom

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Old 12-08-2005, 02:09 PM
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Mustang, I strongly suggest avoiding the gas-less wire welders because they have some VERY undesirable characteristics especially for auto body work. If you are on a tight budget and only plan to use this welder occasionally after doing your project then one of the cheaper MIG welders from Harbor Freight may be ok. If you can afford to spend more($450-$600) then by all means pass up the cheapo machines and get a Lincoln, Hobart or Miller(220 volt is a lot better than 110) because these things are miles ahead of the "bargain" brands and will last a long time with parts and consumables being easy to find. If you only intend to do hobby type body work and little else then a cheap 110 machine will work but not for much more than body panels. I have a Friend that has a Harbor Freight MIG that he bought about a year ago for $199.99 that works darn good for the price and is holding up well so far so it really depends on the intended use. Tell us more about your project and what you intend to do with your welder.

I always like to hear from another Mustang owner
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Old 12-08-2005, 04:22 PM
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welder

I have this one from Sears it works very well. It's made by Clarke
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...00&tab=spe#tab

This is the Clarke model at a much better price
http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/we...WE6523P-1.html
or a 220v model
http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/we...WE6524P-1.html
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Old 12-08-2005, 05:53 PM
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welder ye

I have a century 130 mig that i use with c25 gas i have used a small 90 amp mig with flux wire for putting a floor in my couger it is not as handy because you have clean the flux before you can finish or paint but if it's all you have you use it ihave found the 110 volt mig to be better for use outside or in a friends shop.
hope this helps max
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Old 12-09-2005, 09:45 AM
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Thanks guys for the info.

A little about my plan for my Mustang follows.

I need to replace the driver side floor pan because it has rusted out. The passenger side is a little rusted too ( I could live with it) but I figured since I am at it I might as well replace it as well to be on the safe side.
Another area that may need some TLC is the pass. side qrt. panel I may need to remove then attach a new skin.

That way I would have a solid car to start out with.

That is really major welding that is needing to be done. I also want to customize the front fenders a little, but nothing crazy.

Correct me if I am wrong but I think the floors are 19 ga.

That should be the thickest I will be welding

Thanks,
Mustang_Tom
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Old 12-09-2005, 09:54 AM
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I hate to push the Big Box stores, but go to Lowe's-they carry the Lincoln brand at a pretty good price (their Pro Mig Series are the same as the standard Lincoln Series just rebadged)-

Craig
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Old 12-09-2005, 07:49 PM
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you need to be one or two steps better then that welder.....you will want to have at least 4 heat settings and you should buy one that is convertable to full gas mig welding if you ever get serious...i have a lincoln mig pak 120 or something like that and it works great! one of the best buys i ever made
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Old 12-09-2005, 11:33 PM
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i have a Lincoln MIG pak 120 or something like that and it works great! one of the best buys i ever made
That is very true. I have a Lincoln MIG pak, i cant remember the model, but it't the 220 volt version. Great welder with it you can weld with or without gas. and it says that you can do up to 1/4 thick. And with the right attachments you can do aluminum. In my opinion I think it could weld even thicker than that if you know what you are doing. Great tool don't know how I lived with out it. If you are only going to do body work and light stuff i'd go with the 110 version, but go with a good brand name because they will stand behind there product and have more parts available than the smaller companies
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Old 12-10-2005, 04:13 AM
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I would definately get a Mig or one that is convertable to gas. You will want that doing sheetmetal. One thing that people forget, or don't know, is that you also have to figure in the cost of the gas cyl and gas refills. I have a very old Craftsman that I bought new. I never thought about the gas costs when I convinced my wife to let me get it. She really had fits when she found out what the gas cost me. I recently got my cyl refilled, actually just exchanged, and it cost me $57.
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Old 12-10-2005, 08:01 AM
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Once the tank is bought the cost of the gas is more than offset by the fact that the solid wire costs about a third of of the useless, uh I mean gas-less wire. Also you need to remember that gas-less wire is not as strong as solid wire no matter what the specs say. It may be ok for body panels(other than being hard to use and looking like crap) but I would never use it on a frame or any critical component. I know people use it on frames and just about everything else but it is not a good idea since this stuff is compromised in order to allow it to be used without gas. I am basing what I am saying on over 35 years of using this wire in sizes ranging from .030 to 1/8" and metal from body panels to sections over 14" thick. IMO gas-less is a loser anyway you look at it except for the fact you can weld outside with it in cases where strength is not critical.
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Old 12-10-2005, 08:15 AM
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Everyone has there own opinion so here is mine. I use Flux-core (cuz I haven't broke down for the bottle yet). I have fabbed two trucks using a combination of arc and mig with no problems. These were both offroad applications so as far as strength goes, the flux holds up just fine.

Buddy of mine built a trailer using the same set-up, he hauls tractors(smaller like the Ford 8n) and cars with it. Maybe it comes down to how you weld,I don't know but maybe someday I'll use the gas to. I guess for the little bit that I weld, this is why I went this route.
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Old 12-10-2005, 08:39 AM
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Twisted, Gas-less welders(all MIGs use gas, M-etal I-nert G-as) are not used where strength is critical any where in industry. Over the years we have tried just about every trick in the book to get a stronger weld with this stuff because most of what we do is outside where MIG sometimes is not practical but nothing has helped very much. There is quite a bit of difference in strength and on any component requiring max strength/crack resistance either MIG or stick is used, and for good reason. If you think it works good for you that's fine but I have been a certified welder for over 35 years and have I have spent this time maintaining some of the largest earth moving equipment in the world and have burned literally tons of this wire so I do know a little about it.

Something to think about, look at the spec sheet that comes with it and you will find that one of the "ingredients" used to make it work is aluminum
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Old 12-10-2005, 08:46 AM
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If you think it works good for you that's fine but I have been a certified welder for over 35 years and have I have spent this time maintaining some of the largest earth moving equipment in the world and have burned literally tons of this wire so I do know a little about it.
I don't seem to remember attacking anyones knowledge. Maybe I'm wrong but thats why I began with ,
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Everyone has there own opinion so here is mine
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Old 12-10-2005, 09:04 AM
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Twisted, I guess I took that wrong, sorry for any misunderstanding.
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Old 12-10-2005, 09:38 AM
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No problem
The point I was making is that flux is all I have really used and have had no problems with it. Your points are valid, I have just never made the change to a bottle yet. I kick myself everytime I go and buy another spool of wire and compare the costs of each .
Someday.........
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