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Old 07-24-2005, 07:00 PM
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welders 101

howdy, i've been doing some reading ,asking and looking. i am thinking i can do my own fabrication and welding on the front suspension.
previously i MIG welded some exhaust pipes for my corvette. the job wasn't pretty,but functional..
my question; do i stick weld the mustang II components, or is MIG the way to go?
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:13 PM
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Mig welder

Mig weld is the way to go. You will get a better weld and less clean up when it comes to painting your frame.
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie Hogan
Mig weld is the way to go. You will get a better weld and less clean up when it comes to painting your frame.
ronnie, that's what i was thinking. how big of a unit do i need?

robin
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:39 PM
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Size???

Use a unit that has gas. Don't try to use a 110 unit that is gas less.
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:43 PM
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Pictures

Do you have any pictures of your project, with the sub frame? I would like to see some pictures of your job, before and after you finish doing the welding.
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:55 PM
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Help 37 PlyDude

Looking for someone that has done some interior work on the inside of a trunk lid on a 1956 chevy. I would like to cover it with some material, but having some trouble finding a good backing to attach to the frame work. Any ideals....
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Old 07-25-2005, 09:42 AM
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37, IMO to do any suspension work with a mig get at least 175-180amps, another thing to look for is one with infinate voltage not one that has 1-2-3-4 heat settings, but a thought from past experience buy as big as you can afford chances are then you'll only buy one once. Hobart, Miller,Lincoln well known brands.
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Old 07-25-2005, 11:16 AM
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I'm a former basic welding instructor for the USAF, and I have to agree with Zonk. If you have a 220V outlet handy get a 220V welder. They will usually weld 1/4" steel with one pass. 110V welders will usually only weld 3/16" in one pass, and that is if you have the "gun" held at the right angle. 1/8" is more like it, with 3/16" for the 220V models (though some of them do have the power to weld 1/4" thick single pass). You can make an extension cord and use a dryer outlet if that's near by. Don't get carried away with length though, 50' would be tops, and shorter better.

You definitely want to get a welder that has the capability of using a gas bottle. I bought a little Campbell-Hausfeld from Wal-Mart for home use, but I still have access to shops with big stick welders if I have anything heavy to do. I mainly weld 1/8" steel and sheet metal at home, and then only occasionally. C-H has two models that Wally World used to carry -- a $199 version that was flux core wire only, and a $289 that could be used with flux core or gas. Flux core wire splatters a good bit but is okay for 1/8" steel (maybe 1/16", or 16 gauge) but not good at all for thin sheet metal. With shielding gas you don't use flux (which causes the splatter) and you get a much nicer looking, more solid (stronger!) weld that doesn't require lots of clean-up after.

Unless you go for one of the light duty 110V models like I have, expect to spend around $500 for one. You won't regret it, especially if you don't have easy access to another machine. Check some of the deals at Harbor Freight (http://www.harborfreight.com). They have factory reconditioned Hobart Handler 135A welders for $379 and Chicago Electric 120A on sale for $199. Both have four heat range settings. To get something with a variable setting you have to move up to a 220V machine close to or over $500. A couple companies do make 110V variable heat range machines, but they are close to $500 also.
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Old 07-25-2005, 04:14 PM
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Yeah don't use flux core wire. it doesn't seem to produce good, strong welds. I would use tig myself because it's the cleanest and penetrates more than mig. If you must mig, 2 passes should be more than enough. Do the right thing. Excessive bead reinforcement will actually make a weaker weld. Good luck!
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Old 07-25-2005, 04:35 PM
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welding on a front end, you better do it right the first time, are you a good welder???
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:52 PM
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Steve , i'll be real honest. i am not a good welder....yet. i plan on alot of practice passes before i strike an arc on my car.but i am under no delusions,i will have my tests inspected at Disney by a certified inspector. if they don't pass, i'm not going to risk my life or others on poor judgement
i am going to begin working p/t at a rod shop, doing assembly work. i may be able to get the owner to help me after i prove my worth.
i am asking questions and trying to be informed on what i am getting into...

robin
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Old 07-26-2005, 05:33 PM
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Have those practice pieces stress tested too. Weld a sample piece and have it bent in half. If the weld is good, then it won't crack. If it cracks, then you fail. Also discontinuities that could fail your weld are: Porosity (3 kinds), cracks, incomplete penetration/fusion, undercut, and distortion.
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Old 07-26-2005, 05:53 PM
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hey plydude, i am not that good of a welder either,, just keep practice,, you will get it, good luck
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Old 07-26-2005, 06:29 PM
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howdy all, update, one of our WDW welders stopped me today to ask if i was still working on bikes.....hmmm, i think i've got a 'new' helper!

ride safe!

Robin
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Old 07-27-2005, 06:33 PM
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Maybe he'll help you with the welding then!
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