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Old 01-16-2008, 08:57 PM
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Welding Axle mounts

I'm trying to set up my rear suspension on mt '27 T sedan frame and need some ideas. I'm assuming the diff is cast iron (1980 Chev 1/2 ton) so I'm not sure if I can weld to this. I want a triangulated four bar but the space constraints are kinda tight, the uppers would be about 12" and not at 45 degrees more like 60-70. Here's a bunch of shots:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12817213@N06/?saved=1

I don't want to move the kick up forward as seat space is at a premium and the axle would look funny if I move it back. Any ideas or input would be great, might even have to go parallel 4 bar, but those would be quite short as well.

Oh yea, I've got coilover shocks and a 383 SBC with AFR heads and the works so it has to be sturdy.

Thanks,
Sean.

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Last edited by sgo70; 01-16-2008 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:14 PM
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Some of this may help you...
http://home.earthlink.net/~whshope/ I have the same problem and solved it with a three bar..the center bar is low attached under the rear and the outer bars are attached to the top of the housing..Panhard bar keeps it from moving sideways..

The axle housings are steel so you can weld to them..

Good luck

Sam
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:20 PM
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I've tried to read that link about 5 times before I realized I had no idea what is being said!!

Do you have a picture of yours, I don't think I've ever seen it that way. I have a new Panhard bar I could use.

Thanks,
Sean.
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:32 PM
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Hopefully by the end of next week I should have it done...We are setting the engine and trans in tomorrow so I will have a better idea of where the cross member is located and then I can fab the lower link..

Sam
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Old 01-16-2008, 11:52 PM
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I'm kinda thinking about welding a bracket to the axle housings that goes across the pumpkin.......Hmmmm. Anyone know how thick the metal is on a 12 bolt chevy axle??

SGO
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Old 01-17-2008, 05:21 AM
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The axle tubes are almost 5/16" thick. The center is usually cast steel and can be welded to. Test weld a small spot and it won't take long to see if it cast iron or steel. Cast iron will give you a very porous weld ,cast steel will weld nicely.
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:25 AM
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From your pictures, I could not see what the problem is. I would add another cross member at or near the point of anchoring the angled rods to add some strength to left/right rigidity of the frame rails. You could even anchor your angled rods to this added cross member if that would improve your geometry. I personally would weld to the axle tubes vice the 3rd member housing. The housing is not in the center and requires a lot less measuring to get the geometry trued up.

Trees
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:14 AM
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Thanks guys, I hears the casting will crack and not penetrate well unless it's preheated to about 1200 degrees F.
I still have to add in a few crossmembers but I wanted to locate my axle first. I actually found this idea that I think I could fab up:

http://suicidedoors.com/S103-LinkKit.php

Thanks,
Sean.
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Old 01-17-2008, 08:58 PM
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You could run a Satchell link I'm sure, with no problems. It looks like you have plenty of room. A Satchell link is when the lower bars are triangulated.






The upper bars don't have to be as long as the lower, triangulated bars. But I would keep them at the least half the length the lower bars are. You entire four link doesn't need to be all that long either. You probably only need a total of 6 inches of travel out of it at best. This setup doesn't require a panhard bar to locate the axle. Just make sure you keep your instant center in front of the axle. I see a lot of people with frames similar to yours (and mine) that end up with an instant center behind the axle because of compromised 4-links. But its really not that hard to do it right.

Also, just for future reference, your fish plates, such as the one int he lower left of this picture.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/12817213@N06/2198269459/
Those should be shaped like a diamond, or a fish, to evenly distribute the load. It works better than a square does.
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