[jcarter]

I have some of the filler on my rear fenders,not smooth enough for primer yet. I started building my runningboards,and have to fashion a bracket on the back edge that bolts to the fender.I've done all this, and when I tacked the two pieces together, which were right against the filler, I got a black sooty area. Is the filler affected as far as adhesion, or is this just the surface that will need to be cleaned up? Jim

[willys36@aol.com]

Heat will loosen body filler. If it was hot enough to discolor, it probably let loose. Try a putty knife around the edges to see if it will lift off. No big deal, replace as necessary.

[MARTINSR]

I am with Willys on this, be very wary of filler near welding. It doesn't take much heat (remember we are talking 1500 degrees or so at the welding point, so MANY inches away you can still be in the hundreds) will affect the plastic fillers adhesion BIG TIME. Redo it if ANY doubt what so ever, and go beyond where you think when you strip it off to be sure.

[jcarter]

Thanks,that was my gut feeling about this area but wanted a more experianced opinion just to be sure.I'll grind it out and redo .

[sevt_chevelle]

Ill add my two cents here. I work in a production body shop doing metal work. I prime my work then send to paint for painting. Last week I was doing a 01-02 Chevy Sub, fixed the right 1/4 panel, had roughly a 4x4 area of glazing putty.
Since I had other things to do I used a bake light to help kick that primer along to get it out of my hair.

Well to make a long story shortier I got that bake light a tad close and BAKED the filler right off the metal. After the light was off I felt the panel and it felt like a bag of walnuts. Started sanding with 180 grit and filler started coming off in chucks!!!

So if a 1000 watt light can COOK filler off metal a puddle of molting metal sure will. I had to redo that entire 1/4 on that Sub.

[BodymanDave]

Don't feel bad. I have over baked a few panels in my days also.