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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2009, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staleg
I'm a little confused about how the different helmet brands describe the switching time on their auto dark helmets.

For example:
Miller Pro Hobby is changing from light to dark in 1/12000 sec, while their more expensive Pro Elite use 1/25000 sec.

That makes sense, but when I look at Lincoln helmets, their entry level Viking Tribal uses 1/25000 sec, while their more expensive Vista 3000 uses 1/10000 sec???

I would say 1/10000 is a slower change than 1/25000, right? But in that case, the 200$ Lincoln Vista changes from light to dark slower than the 120$ Lincoln Viking...


This is a classic case of marketing hype, as if 1/12000 of a second is a lot better than 1/25000 of a second. I guess it can be argued that it must be better but honestly in what way? The operator can not tell the difference, I sure can,t and I have been using these things since the first Jacksons hit market years ago. If you are concerned that you will be getting more exposure to UV/IR with the "slower" 1/12000th second model then you are concerned about exactly nothing. We have covered this many times before and the fact is the reaction time has nothing to do with UV/IR exposure since the radiation blockage is a function of the lens material and it does not matter how fast (or even if at all) the lens switches to dark. The darkening function of the lens filters the visible light spectrum while the UV/IR is absorbed/blocked by the outer lens material so you receive the same protection whether the lens goes dark or not. You will not burn your eyes with a "slower" reaction lens nor will you burn your eyes if it fails to darken, which it almost certainly will tend to do occasionally, the protection is ALWAYS there whether the lens is dark or not.


[EDIT] 1/12000 or 1/25000, I just noticed I have that backward but there's not any real difference anyway.

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Last edited by oldred; 11-01-2009 at 05:21 PM.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-01-2009, 01:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
You will not burn your eyes with a "slower" reaction lens nor will you burn your eyes if it fails to darken, which it almost certainly will tend to do occasionally, the protection is ALWAYS there whether the lens is dark or not.
Which is not the case with my Cherokee which when open has a clear lense. You MUST close it before welding or you will substain eye damage.

Brian
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Old 11-01-2009, 02:16 PM
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Helmet

HF has a auto dark helmet with backup battery for 80 bucks.

I just got a used Speedglas 9000X for $100.00, same guy I just bought my Millermatic auto-set 140 with small gas tank (1 hour time on it) for $450.00, he was hurtin fer money, his loss my gain.

I checked on line and the welder is $809.00 new from Miller and the helmet is $455.00 new.

I also bought a very nice mig welding cart from HF for $49.95, sane exact color as the welder.

Last edited by Carlos Murphy; 11-01-2009 at 03:46 PM.
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:18 PM
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Sounds like a pretty good score, Carlos.

One thing that I DID notice about the cheaper helmets, and worth mentioning in this thread, was that they had "non-rechargeable, non-replaceable" lithium-ion battery. What do you do when it goes dead ... garbage the helmet and buy another one?

The Hobart one uses alkaline AAA's.
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:43 PM
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dead batt

Maybe the battery maintains its charge with the on-board solar power system?
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Old 11-01-2009, 05:27 PM
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I have one of the older Hobarts that has over 10 years on the battery and it is hardly ever used, it does however stay in a well lit area. I also have known people to take out the "non" replaceable button cell battery and put a new one in. The trick is to not store the thing in a dark area, not sure why this should make a difference if it is supposed to turn itself off after a period of non-use but the booklet that came with my Hobart said not to allow it to stay in a dark place for extended periods.
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Old 11-01-2009, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Which is not the case with my Cherokee which when open has a clear lense. You MUST close it before welding or you will substain eye damage.

Brian

It probably would cause problems if it happened often but even that clear lens offers some protection from the UV/IR, quite a bit more than most people might think. It is definitely NOT enough to prevent eye burns with more than momentary exposure but for the occasional slip-up it is a heck of a lot better than nothing at all and could very well prevent a flash burn. With a conventional lens or an electric type it is really not the tint that stops the harmful rays but the lens material itself so there is no more protection from using a no.12 lens than there is from a no.10, same for the auto dark and setting it to a darker shade does not increase protection from the harmful light spectrum. Of course using a lens that is not dark enough for the welding task being performed will present it's own problems and over time could cause eye damage but this is a different problem that would be more akin to looking a bright light than being exposed to an electric arc.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:37 PM
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Will the HF unit accept a magnifying lense? Getting old has its advantages and disadvantages.
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