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I like to get the car as high as I can and use the stands under the suspension so the weight of the car rests on the suspension,just as it would normally ...Its very important with a uni body...and a good practice with full frame cars too...I've had the door gaps close or get wider on a few hardtops and most convertibles even with full frames,so just put the stands under the suspension just in case... and be safe...
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Is that car a unibody like a Mustang..if so do all you can to support the car and put the temp bracing in like Joe suggested. Make sure the doors are right before welding anything..
Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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Check the pics. On the front you want to be on the lower arm toward the wheel. It may even have the stock jack point there. In the rear you want to put them under the shock plate (where the rear is bolted to the springs and the shocks attach).
Pics are from a Mustang, but yours should be similar. |
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heres a couple ....put them under the rear axel and under the control arms where ever it fits best usually by the ball joint,,,
This way its just like the car is sitting on the ground .... |
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heres some of the bracing ...
I just used what I had laying around but found that electrical conduit works well ,just smash the ends flat and run a 10mm drill screw it.No need for welding.You'll also need a screw at the intersection of the X. You'll want to replace or repair any worn hinges first then adjust the door gaps. Put your braces on the inside of the jamb so you can open and close the door ,this way you can monitor any movement when your cutting and welding.. The bracing I did here is way more than you'll need because I replaced the floors and rockers also dropped the body over the frame.. if your only replacing the floor theres no need for a brace connecting the front and rear pillar ,the rocker will do that.All you really need is an X in the jamb but extra bracing never hurts. Send pics of your progress as you go... |
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