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Old 11-17-2010, 10:35 AM
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Welding on rearend

I'm not sure if this belongs here or on the rearend section. I'm putting new brackets on for my disc brakes on a 9" Ford rear. Do I weld the brackets with axles in or is it better to have them out?

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Old 11-17-2010, 01:05 PM
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I'd take them out, you don't want to melt the o-ring around the bearings OD.
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Old 11-17-2010, 01:38 PM
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I leave the axles in. The axles can help hold the housing straight just in case. Its cheaper to replace a o-ring or seal compared to fixing any tweaks. Just take your time welding and try not to put too much heat at once.
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Old 11-17-2010, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9
I leave the axles in. The axles can help hold the housing straight just in case. Its cheaper to replace a o-ring or seal compared to fixing any tweaks. Just take your time welding and try not to put too much heat at once.
I ALWAYS replace the axle bearings anyway
So I leave the axles in ...

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Old 11-18-2010, 10:38 AM
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Thanks guys,
It seems to be pretty much what I expected but I wanted to be sure. I know I've said this before but it drives me nuts that in order to build/fabricate almost anything you have to make it first and try it before you can make it?!?!
I can think of no way to fit the Speedway brackets with the calipers on the rotors to see if the wheel will clear without tack welding them on in the first place. So lots of weld will be bad anyway. Hopefully it will work the first time...yeah, right.
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:20 AM
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Tack weld them and trial fit everything.

Brian
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:40 AM
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Limit your welding to short passes to minimize heat buildup and consequently housing warp.

OOps one year old post, he's probably already welded it

Vince
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Old 11-19-2010, 09:04 AM
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UMMM, I don't think this post is a year old. The date on the #1 post is 11/17/2010, that's two days ago, right?
I was just gonna add that you should clamp your ground as close to the area your welding as is physically possible. You don't want to do something like placing the ground clamp on the pinion flange and then welding out at the end of the axle tube. A set up like that can cause big probs with the bearings in the third member as it MAY allow the ground path of the welding circuit to arc between the races and rollers which can do major damage to the bearings.

Maybe Miller says it better than I!

Q: How important is a good electrical ground in MIG welding?

A: In arc welding, an arc is established from the electrode to the workpiece. To do this properly, the arc requires a smooth flow of electricity through the complete electrical circuit, with minimum resistance. If you crimp a garden hose while watering the lawn, the flow at the sprinkler head is much reduced. Beginning welders often make the mistake of attaching the work clamp (or electrical ground) to a painted panel or a rusty surface. Both of these surfaces are electrical insulators and do not allow the welding current to flow properly. The resulting welding arc will be difficult to establish and not very stable. Other telltale signs of an improper electrical connection are a work clamp that is hot to the touch or cables that generate heat. Another key point to consider when attaching the welding ground is to place the welding ground on the piece being welded. Welding current will seek the path of least resistance so if care is not taken to place the welding ground close to the arc, the welding current may find a path unknown to the operator and destroy components unintended to be in the welding circuit.

SO . . . FIRMLY ATTACH WORK CABLES TO CLEAN BARE METAL AND CLOSE TO THE WELDING ARC.


If you already knew this, well, never mind!!
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:31 PM
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While rolling element bearings are most often thought of when welding damage is considered, plain bearings (babbitt or insert-type) aren't immune to welding damage.

Like has been said, grounding 'grab' as close to the weld as practical, and never allow the current to pass through bearings or electrical components.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:07 AM
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Once again, the best place to come for advice!! I need to do a little grinding on the bracket so it will clear the bearing "bump" at the end of the axle tube. I think that I can limit the weld to the tube itself and not weld directly over the bearing. As you advise, the best place to ground the welder would be on the bracket at the weld site. I will alternate from one end to the other to spread the heat, taking the ground clamp with me.
Thanks again!
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Old 11-27-2010, 12:59 PM
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Just wanted to check in with the final version of this post. I did remove the axles so as not to weld over them. It turned out that in order for the bracket to center the rotor I had to mount it on the bearing area. I alternated ends and didn't weld long in one place, letting the housing cool between welds. Everything seems to have worked well.

Thanks Again for All the Help!!!
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