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Old 05-06-2007, 05:20 PM
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Welding Stainless Steel to Hot Rolled Steel?

Can Stainless Steel be welded safely to Hot Rolled Steel?

I am having difficulty locating steel pipe with 1/2" ID to use for making my own hidden hinges.

I have some Stainless Steel Pipe with 1/2" ID and would need to mate it to 3/8" x 2" flat steel at the end of the steel piece.

IF the metals are incompatible - I'll keep looking!

Thanks!

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Old 05-06-2007, 05:44 PM
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The shop I used to work in did it sometimes (weird things the customers dreamed up). They used a special wire for it though on the migs. I wish I could remember what grade it was. Sorry.

You might talk to a welding supply house if no one around here knows what the wire is.
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Old 05-06-2007, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian_B
The shop I used to work in did it sometimes (weird things the customers dreamed up). They used a special wire for it though on the migs. I wish I could remember what grade it was. Sorry.

You might talk to a welding supply house if no one around here knows what the wire is.
Hmmm - I have a roll of .23 and .30 Stainless...I wonder if they were just using the stainless wire to weld to the steel?
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Old 05-06-2007, 06:53 PM
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No. There is a lot of different grades of stainless. 304, 316, 317, 317LM, hastelloy, inconnell. I am sure there are others...its been a while.

Just welding it with stainless will not hold. There is a particular wire made for just welding hot roll to stainless. I just wish I could remember the number. It was rare that we ever did that in the shop.
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Old 05-06-2007, 07:23 PM
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welding s.s. to hot rolled steel.

I've done it many times.

Are you planning to mig it or tig . If you have eccess to a tig that would be my choice,
with a tig you can use either 304-308-309-316 s/s filler rod.

If you are concerned about strenghts, 309 filler rod, or mig wire.

For most applications 304 filler rod, or mig wire,

Or if you plan on arc welding it, the same s/s welding rods numbers would be efficient for what you are doing.

The important thing is preparation. A weld is only as good as the preparation.

The material should be beveled or v'd out if you will, flat bar to pipe might not need to much bevel.

If you need to sand and polish it after, you might need to bevel the flat bar for proper penetration, cause you sand away part of the weld.

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Old 05-06-2007, 07:49 PM
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MIG welder is all I have available to me right now - the welds will not need to be ground or polished.

The stainless wire I have is ER308LSI

I can't find a marking on the stainless - but I've welded this material before.

I might just cut a couple of pieces weld them together and then do a strength test.
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Old 05-06-2007, 08:14 PM
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if you want to weld ss to carbon steel then use 309 rod, if a tig is being used.
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Old 05-06-2007, 08:16 PM
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Rambo that wire is an excellent choice for what you want to do and with proper prep that weld should hold just fine. I have joined stainless to carbon steels for years successfully.
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Old 05-06-2007, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Rambo that wire is an excellent choice for what you want to do and with proper prep that weld should hold just fine. I have joined stainless to carbon steels for years successfully.
Thanks oldred thats good to know...

I'm going to suicide style my rear doors on my 49 Stepdown so I am going to build some hidden hinges. I bought about 120.00 worth of steel thats enough to do both sides and then some but after buying all that steel I still needed the 1 critical piece to make the hinge pin housings which I couldn't find at 2 different stores ~ but thought I had at home in SS. and I did!

I thought about going with pre-fabbed kits but the stepdown has bolt on quarter panels and the kits would have required a ton of mods to work within the unibody and the quarter panels.

I'll post a new thread sometime when I get a door done up!

Thanks everyone!
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Old 05-06-2007, 09:50 PM
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Since there are many different stainless types you might want to make a test weld first but you have a versatile wire and I would be surprised if you have problems.
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Old 05-07-2007, 08:23 AM
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The other option is to forget about the stainless and ream/drill out the tubing/pipe to the diameter you need. That's what I do to make hidden hinges. It's a bit tricky to get holding the pipe straight and true in the drill press...but it can be done. I also use a plastic of brass sleeve between the hinge "hoop" (the pipe you are boring out) and the hinge pin. This helps prevent squeaking later on and also allows a bit more fudge factor when reaming out the pipe.
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Old 05-07-2007, 11:05 AM
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The approach Cboy uses is the same that I use and works well..most of the time one can use common steel pipe for the housings and get the bushings from tractor supply , grainger, Mcmaster Carr or some of the other suppliers we have discussed..

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