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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2012, 08:43 AM
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I've used it A LOT! and I think i like this better, it's easier to get the ratio right and sands like butter..
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=302
it's a 4-1 mix called featherfill..pretty much same as slicksand.

thin with acetone...
I really only use it when Ive done a lot of little repairs or a large panel. it's easier then trying to skim coat with bondo..
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2012, 08:52 AM
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To me the perfect place is somewhere with a lot of body lines and stuff like a tailgate, a firewall, those are the places I like a polyester primer the most.

Brian
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Old 05-23-2012, 01:51 PM
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poly primers save plenty of time in restoration. When you're expected to give mirror finish results with no orange peel the primer is essentially smoothing out what you can't see or feel.
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Old 05-24-2012, 05:47 PM
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shoulda had the cement truck come and pump it on..Get your self one of those texture ceiling hopper guns...Dont even get my started with slick sand OR feather fill.....To many things can go wrong for someone...this is a little one....
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Old 05-24-2012, 06:33 PM
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I had a good experience with Evercoat FeatherFill G3 flows out nicely with a 1.8 tip and had no problems sanding it.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:07 PM
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my 2.5 mm gun is practically a cement truck! I really think that stupid in-gun filter was the bottle neck. There's absolutely no reason this stuff shouldn't just fall out of my 2.5 mm cannon. I've been running power to my big air compressor so I haven't got back to shooting more, but it should help now that I'll be giving the gun all the air volume it actually wants as well.

I think this will be my first and only gallon of slick sand, however. It's just insane how hard this stuff sands. If I have to do it again I might try featherfill if it sands better. I think it might be cheaper as well, just doesn't build as much.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:38 PM
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That screen IS the problem toss it......I swear to god this is true: I saw a mexican looking dude spreading that on with a plastic bondo squeegie he poured it on a hood and spread it around...
At the time I just thought he didnt know any better.....maybe he had the same problem.
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Elcamino
I had a good experience with Evercoat FeatherFill G3 flows out nicely with a 1.8 tip and had no problems sanding it.
I like it with a 1.8 too but in the summer I prefer a 2.0 or a little thinned.

I actually like PLC poly primer better though but like how simple featherfill is to mix.
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Old 05-24-2012, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer
my 2.5 mm gun is practically a cement truck! I really think that stupid in-gun filter was the bottle neck. There's absolutely no reason this stuff shouldn't just fall out of my 2.5 mm cannon. I've been running power to my big air compressor so I haven't got back to shooting more, but it should help now that I'll be giving the gun all the air volume it actually wants as well.

I think this will be my first and only gallon of slick sand, however. It's just insane how hard this stuff sands. If I have to do it again I might try featherfill if it sands better. I think it might be cheaper as well, just doesn't build as much.
Featherfill sands nice. I don't see a problem with how it sands. I see a possible problem with rock chips cause it doesn't have an element of flex like your 2k's. Haven't seen any issues but can imagine it maybe being an issue. So, on my Mustang the front end will get one app of poly and one or two rounds of 2k , just to make me feel better about it.

with that said, we always see our cars 6 months later when we do a free buff job on the car and I haven't once seen a rock chip on any hood. Some are drivers and some are diva cars.
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:54 AM
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Do you guys think Slicksand would be a good way to fix a
hail damaged panel like a hood?
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:16 AM
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Its a good way to finish off a hail job but if your talking just fill and block with feather-fill until hail dents are gone no. You put that stuff on that thick and sooner or later its going to crack big time. Fill your hail dents with filler or glaze, sand with 40- 80 then use your feather-fill.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swvalcon
Its a good way to finish off a hail job but if your talking just fill and block with feather-fill until hail dents are gone no. You put that stuff on that thick and sooner or later its going to crack big time. Fill your hail dents with filler or glaze, sand with 40- 80 then use your feather-fill.
I was thinking of sanding 90% of it off leaving mostly only the dents filled,
then maybe a good urethane primer to block it straight.?
(I've never used poly primers)
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:26 AM
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Works great to fill sand scratches and take out waves. I did fill a small hail dent one time with it when I started to put it on a roof that I did hail repair on and noticed that I missed one. I wouldn't use it by its self though.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:30 AM
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Sounds like it wouldn't be any better than a high build 2K.?
I might as well skim coat with spot putty.
That's how I fixed the last hail damaged vehicle.
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Old 05-25-2012, 11:32 AM
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This stuff FILLS just about anything you want, but like any product it has it's limits. You could literally tape a dime to a fender and bury it with five or six coats! BURY it!

I did a test one time and as I remember I got 14 mils with three coats.

Brian
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