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Old 11-09-2007, 10:43 AM
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Wet sanding clear

I mostly spray Concept 2021 clear, usually 3 coats. If you start sanding with 1000,1200,1500 and 2000 then buff, how much clear have you probably removed ? One coat ? Just curious.

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Old 11-09-2007, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polish Painter
I mostly spray Concept 2021 clear, usually 3 coats. If you start sanding with 1000,1200,1500 and 2000 then buff, how much clear have you probably removed ? One coat ? Just curious.
Practically none to all of it depending on how aggressive you are with 4 grades of paper and 2 or 3 levels of compounding and how much three coats of clear really covers the way you spray.

Dave
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Old 11-09-2007, 06:56 PM
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Dave hit the nail right on the head. Everyone, and every gun sprays differently, giving you varrying thicknesses of film build. That menas that you can have very little clear to start with, or it may be relatively heavy. Add to the variations in the thickness of the clear, the fact that everyone can sand differently, who know what you end up with.

Why are you sanding it, specially with so many steps? Is there orange peel, solvent pop, or just trash? Solvent pop or OP can get you sanding more clear off than you really want to, just to get it smooth. If it is just because of trash, I would not be sanding with 1000 grit.

Here is my take on the grits and uses.

I use 800, 1000, or 1200 for what I consider "leveling". They are relatively course, and will remove material fairly quickly. Good for removing OP, urethane wave, and heavy scratches. You must make sure you have enough clear there.

I use 1500, 2000, 2500 and 3000+ for polishing. They are relatively fine cutting and do not remove much material. They can remove most trash in a new paint job, and also remove the sanding scratches from the previous step. Proper proceedures will buff out sanding scratches from these grits.

Normally, I will choose one grit from each category for a job. If I go with, say 800 grit first, I will go with 1500 for the next step. Then depending on the surface, weather it has body lines to deal with or not, I may go to 2500 just to make the buffing easier. If it is a large flat surface, buffing from 1500 isn't difficult at all. If I started with 1200, I would likely go with 2000, or maybe 2500 for the next step. The main reason for the second sanding is to remove the course sanding marks, to be able to buff, not to remove material.

Aaron
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Old 11-11-2007, 02:50 PM
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Thanks Adtkart, Thats some good advice. I can spray a pretty slick surface, low orange peel and very little trash. I normally always start with 1500, then 2000 buff. But I am now looking more closely at the panel and would like to level urethane peel. If I started with say 1200 could I wet the panel with wax and grease remover and tell if the urethane peel is gone before moving to finer grits ? I would hate to sand with finer grits, buff and discover peel is still there. Thanks for your help.
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Old 11-11-2007, 06:12 PM
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A lot of people do wet the panels to see how they look. Keep in mind that any liquid that you put on there may make it appear smoother than it really is. Liquid will be self leveling.

Aaron
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Old 11-12-2007, 05:12 AM
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I sure wouldn't wet the panel with a solvent like wax and grease remover. While it would remove sanding sludge, it would also put more nasties in the air and in you.

Being the rank amateur that I am, have found that if you want a slick look, water will do it just fine but hide all those imperfections - trash, peel and runs. For my inspections, I'll wash it down with a sponge and clean water, then dry it with a towel. Trash sticks up like a mountain peak, peel shows as shiny spots as the panel dries and the runs show like lump. For level, you need a block that easily conforms to the panel and you sand in whatever direction you want smooth. A flat panel. a flat block. A rounded panel, a soft block that conforms easily that wont take too much off in the center that wont bend. The very soft 3M 5530 block, I have found to be useless and I can't find their medium density version 5529 any longer but have been using a Motor Guard block. Many of the Dura-Blocks are too rigid for CC sanding on anything with a curve. I've made up a bunch from sheet neoprene. I need to take some photos later today and will update this a bit later with what I'm using.

Remember, I'm an amateur and on a steep learnimg curve and these are my observations. Others will have different solutions that work for them, saying I'm all wrong.....

Dave


Update: My sanding blocks - they don't include my 10 and 16 inch boards:

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Old 11-14-2007, 05:49 PM
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I sanded a panel with 1200 grit and another with 1500 grit. Continued sanding 2000,3000 and Abralon 4000. When finished looked at each panel real well. The 1200 grit panel was noticebly flatter . They were both slick but the 1500 grit showed more ripples where I didnt get clear flat. If I sanded with 1000 grit would it be flatter than the 1200 grit ? I guess that will be next test. I know you have to careful about breaking thru clear. These panels had 4 good wet of coats of clear on them. It is black and I am trying to get that flat,slick look. In the past 1500 grit on up seems to do fine on a light colored dailey driver.
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