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Old 01-05-2007, 12:55 PM
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Wet sanding HOK tangerine Kandy before clear?

I am spraying a house of color kandy. Its a cider red base that has a lot of metalic with a Tangerine Kandy that doesnt look like there is any metalic in it, just pearl. Since i dont have a paint booth ideal for this job i was wondering if i could spray 3 coats of the cider red base, than 5 coats of the Kandy and stop and let cure. Then wetsand with 1200 or 1500 to know any unwanted dirt or dust out. Also to get some orange peel out. Then apply 3-4 coats of clear and do the same. Wet sand and apply 3-4 more coat and finish with a final wet sand and buff....

would i be hurting anything if i wet sanded the Kandy? I figured it is pretty much a clear with pearl(powder) added. I think this would give me the ultimate finished product, especially since i am shooting is a garage.

Any i thinking in the right direction...

Thanks in advanced....
Troy

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Old 01-05-2007, 02:20 PM
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If sprayed right, you shouldn't have any orange peel, and I would be leery about sanding any candy colors as the layers of candy determines the final outcome. If you start sanding it may look fine in the garage but a little more sanding in one place, a little less in the other, and on a wide flat panel I would be afraid that it would show up as stripes. And if it did show after it was cleared either you would have to live with it, or write it off as an expensive learning experience and kick up some cash for more paint. If you set your garage up right, and have everything mixed right and all gauges set right you should not have dirt, and or orange peel in your base coat. But any dirt you do have can be taken off with a tack cloth or I wouldn't use anything less than 2000 to nib the dirt off. Use extra care in setting up the garage to spray. Get an airhose with the long snout and blow everything out. Not once, not twice, but three or four times. Go around the areas where the car or truck will be setting and crank up the pressure on the hose and see if you kick up any dust. Also make sure to blow your bench off and blow the ceilings off so nothing drops down from above. I did that when I shot mine and had no dirt in the paint. I did get some dust in the clear though from the overspray dust in the garage from shooting the basecoat. It came out when it was cut and buffed though.
If you have windows, get some furnace filters and put in them. Find a furnace blower and put it at the bottom of the garage door and seal the rest of the opening off real well with plywood, OSB, or something along those lines. And where the garage door is open at the top, seal it off or you will be recirculating what you are pulling out and will end up with dirt in the paint. This worked out real well for me. And to minimize overspray laying on everything, instead of covering it with plastic, use sharkskin (the plastic that you mask the car with) as the sharkskin will attract the overspray and not let it be recycled into the air if you happen to brush against something. Hopefully this will help you out a little.

Kevin
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Old 01-05-2007, 03:22 PM
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The base color would be fine to sand, But after you would need to spray more base. Leave the candy coats alone, what you spray is what you get. This is what makes candy more difficult to spray and repair, the number of layers sprays determines the darkness of the final color.being it is translucent, still allowing to see the base color through, and if you go and sand the candy coats, you will most likely mess it up. So you are going to want to spray the candy coats is good and even as you can. Put clear on and if you wish you can sand that flat and either polish or spray more clear on.
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Old 01-05-2007, 03:48 PM
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What they said.
Problem spraying kandy outside of striping is like you asking,
TRASH.
Problem is that once you get trash into the kandy coats,it starts to build around the trash creating a dark speck.Too late then.
"If" you catch the trash before the next round it's possiable to lightly nib it out after the coat flashs off if your using a intercoat/concentrait style kandy but with a true UK kandy,you can't nib it,if it flashs off dry enough to nib out it's a crap shoot if the next coat will adhere due to UK needing to be wet for the next coat.You try to nib it wet and you WILL make one big a.. mess.
BEST advice if your bent on a kandy job is to do like Kevin said,clean a day BEFORE you paint and WET the area down before shooting the kandy. This is how I do it and I've had no problems.

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Old 01-05-2007, 09:06 PM
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Thanks for all the replies.

The only reason i was thinking about wet sanding the kandy before clear was because of dust or dirt. Not too worried about orange peel. The base i shoot works great, meaning that it doesnt really attract anything. but it seems with clear it is really heavy and sticky stuff...

I was planning on blowing out the garage with a leaf blower and compressed air and then putting up plastic all around to block out the shelves, benches, ect... The blow out again and let everythign sit for a day. Then wipe the car and and dampen the floor. As for ventelation i might have to revise... I was planning on just putting 2 fans, one in each window. The windows are on 2 different walls. I dont have a furnice fan, but i will have to look into something though....

As for gun pressures, i have a sata 3000 digital and for the color i set at 8-9 psi for the base and candy. The clear i have at around 12-14. Does that sound right?? I guess i should lower the pressure when clearing?

Thanks again for all the help and advice...
Troy
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Old 01-05-2007, 09:15 PM
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Bee4Me: That looks great....
Here is a test piece i did on a spare hood... I didnt even clean the garage because this was just a test peice. This is the first kandy i shot so i wanted to test it...
This was immediatly after i shot it. It cured and ended up flowing out real nice, but there was little dust in the clear.

Thanks again for the advise...
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Old 01-06-2007, 03:48 AM
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That looks good. I really can't tell how large of an area that you shot, but cut and buff it to see how satisfied you are with the looks. One thing to remember is that a small area turns out better than an overall due to airborne materials ie. overspray. And any paint or clear will want to pull away from dirt due to silicones. Not all though. Some will be buried in the clear and some will stay on top. Thats just the way it is when shooting in a garage. I know that wehn the truck was shot we did not wet down the floor due to dragging the hose around. I didn't want any water droplets to accidently get on the paint.
Most of the places that I had dust settle into the clear buffed right out. I know where they are at but if not pointed out, no one else notices. But I can't stress enough....blow everything down multiple times before you grab the gun. And make sure you have plenty of tack cloths, wax & grease remover, and the jobber has special paper towels for use with the W&G remover. Get a box of those. Silicones will kill a paint job in a heartbeat. Tack the car off before shooting the base, and if it looks like a lot of overspray, let it set between coats and tack again.
One question I have is how are you doing your door jambs, fender edges, etc. Is everything dismantled? The only reason I ask is that I am curious. I have seen many candy jobs and you can tell exactly how the car was shot. I have never sprayed candy but have seen it on many occasions being sprayed. It looks great inside, but out in the sun the doors are outlined one shade darker then the rest of the car. Even some high dollar paint jobs at shows have turned out like this. To me I think candy paint is just about like concrete. Once you start, there is no stopping until the job is finished.
Looking forward to more pics Mustangous.

Last edited by Kevin45; 01-06-2007 at 03:54 AM.
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Old 01-06-2007, 06:51 AM
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I was going to paint the car apart. Hang all the parts and try to shoot all together. As for the test hood i painted i just painted a part of a hood, just to test it out and check out the color. I didnt even clean anything out because i was still in the middle of preping the car. when i do to paint the car i am going to do my best with cleaning the garage out, but i still have to look into the ventilation part. I probably need a better fan(s).

What are the pressures everyone are using at the gun for the base, clear, candys?

Thanks again and good talking to everyone...
Troy
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Old 01-06-2007, 03:13 PM
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You really want the car together for a kandy job or at "least" have the panels lined up to spray. Shooting a test panel is NOTHING compared to a complete.
I painted that dragster body in pieces but they were on stands inline and it's IMPERATIVE to WALK THE ENTIRE LENGTH as your spraying. ANY deviation in your coverage will show up big time.
This was the top section inline and no, I did not stop spraying between the pieces. The nose cap was in front and out of site in this pic.

This was the side set up which was a Yellow kandy graphic.

Click on my Project Journal link to the right of my name to see the whole process of this. Might give you some idea of what this takes.
Honestly, I think you need some more practice time before tackling a complete car IF you want it to turn out right.
Kandy paint is all about CONSISTENCY and attempting to panel paint a kandy job is a failure from the get go. I know,I've tried and you just can NOT get CONSISTENT color coverage. You'll "think" it looks good till you assemble and that is when you will want to go crawl in a hole someplace.
I understand your enthusiasm but large kandy work requires some skill and patience. I would seriously consider a base color or factory pac combo for this job as you can get your desired color REAL close to the Tangerine and not have all the trouble with trying to shoot it with kandy.
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Old 01-07-2007, 07:40 AM
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KBC08, right? Over BC or FBC09? You'd best NOT SAND THE TANGERINE COAT. It will lift and craze. It will lift the base under it. The KBC line is a slow drying and aggressive basecoat. Your test looks good because you went right out to finish. These colors, while giving as close to a true candy look are a whole new ballgame. While the slower solvent idea holds true for most basecoats giving a supurb finish to clear over, you want a medium or fast dry solvent to prevent the problems associated with doing these colors. There's some basic tech in their manual but I've done quite a few of these on bikes and such and am just trying to "save" one on a car that wants to lift right to the base on repairs. Long story, DON'T ASK PLEASE Believe me, they're a great way to do a kandy look but heed these tips on THAT particular kolor.
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Old 01-08-2007, 04:24 AM
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So how do you recommend painting the jambs to get everythign to flow nice? That is why i was going to paint everything dismantled... On the american Hot rod show i seen them paint a candy with everything apart, so i figured it was proabably ok.
Should i paint all the jambs first and then put the car back together and go at it?

Thanks for the advise... Those pictures look great..

Troy
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