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Old 07-29-2006, 03:34 PM
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wetsanding/polishing AE??

From a newbie perspective...

Can you wetsand/polish Acrylic Enamel single stage without a clear coat?

I had some test shots that I tried wetsanding 1000grit on, and as expected it scuffed all the gloss off. Then I tried some polish I had lying around and it just soaked in and made it look oily. Really no gloss at all.

Ok so my understanding is that you have to go up to atleast 1500 grit before the scratches will be small enough to cover, but I thought it would come out somewhat glossy. Maybe im using the wrong kind of polish?

Or maybe you can't wetsand single stage without clear?

ALSO,
Would wetsanding be able to take out overspray/dry spots from the final coat of enamel to make it smoothe on those areas and then polish to gloss? What about paint runs, are those fairly normal to remove with wetsanding?


P.S. How long do I need to wait before wetsanding a new paintjob?


Thanks fellas.

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Old 07-29-2006, 03:41 PM
cab cab is offline
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Let me start by saying I've only done this ONCE. I wetsanded and buffed my Maaco single stage job several years ago with good success. I used 1500 paper, followed by 2000 paper. I then used Maguirs #2 fine cut cleaner on a foam pad (with a good buffer), followed by either Maguire's # 7 or #9 (can't remember which) on a "finer" foam pad. Once buffed I waxed the car and was done. The fun part was when the foam pads would "catch" on a door handle or something and rip right off the buffer!

I do remember that 1500 wasn't quite aggressive enough to get all that Maaco peel out of the paint, (whould have started with 1000 or 1200 in my case) but it was still a dramatic improvement.
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Old 07-29-2006, 03:55 PM
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Cab,
Thanks for your reply.

Can you tell me, did it pretty much go in the order that the 1500 and 2000 sandpaper left the paint scuffed with no gloss, then the cutter brough out some gloss and the polish made it really shine or what was the general order of how it "looked"
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Old 07-29-2006, 04:29 PM
cab cab is offline
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That's correct. When I hit it with the 1500 grit I thought - "OK, I've either just begun to get a great finish or I just ruined this paint job". 1500 and even 2000 leave it looking pretty scuffed up. The #2 compound actually starts bringing the gloss black almost immediately, etc. They even have REALLY fine grades of paper like 3000 grit now, a if you can find it a lot of folks recommend it as it takes vey little compund to start bringing the gloss back once you have it sanded that fine. be very carefull around corners and edges (you might even consider taping them off and doign them by hand as you will almost surly burn through on at least one or two spots - I did).
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Old 07-29-2006, 07:50 PM
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Ok I guess that makes sense. I knew I was skipping way too far ahead anyways but I was looking to see what it might look like. I guess you have to take every small step to get any sort of decent result here.


On another note, does anyone know how long I need to wait before I can wetsand a new paintjob? Should wetsanding take out paint runs ok?
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Old 07-30-2006, 04:57 PM
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anyone else have input from experience? thanks
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Old 07-30-2006, 06:37 PM
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Alot of people will say to wait a long time before cutting and buffing AE. I find it works best for me at about 3 days after the paint application (with hardner of course). You can go pretty course with AE but 1200 is about as course as I go now. I can remember color sanding Centauri with 600 in the early 80's.
So you'll hit it with 1200 getting rid of all the dirt and peel. Runs will need special attention we start with a coarser grit wrapped around a paint stick. Some use a razor blade. At this stage there will be no gloss. Then compound and buff to bring the shine back. We don't do alot of AE anymore but every couple months I have to show a customer how to do it. So I'll do a fender or something to show the process. There's lots of cutting and buffing techniques so not everyone will have the same answer.

Larry


Larry
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Old 07-30-2006, 09:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbell101
Alot of people will say to wait a long time before cutting and buffing AE. I find it works best for me at about 3 days after the paint application (with hardner of course). You can go pretty course with AE but 1200 is about as course as I go now. I can remember color sanding Centauri with 600 in the early 80's.
So you'll hit it with 1200 getting rid of all the dirt and peel. Runs will need special attention we start with a coarser grit wrapped around a paint stick. Some use a razor blade. At this stage there will be no gloss. Then compound and buff to bring the shine back. We don't do alot of AE anymore but every couple months I have to show a customer how to do it. So I'll do a fender or something to show the process. There's lots of cutting and buffing techniques so not everyone will have the same answer.

Larry


Larry
Larry,
Thanks a lot for your response! You pretty much answered my questions. I don't mind waiting a week or two if I have to before wetsanding.

I plan on being very careful with it though, I really don't want to burn through the paint and have to fix it. I'm thinking of hitting the runs carefully by hand with my fingers, or maybe I will try that paint stick idea (although i think i trust my fingers more). Then again the razor blade thing sounds very effetive too but I'm not sure i trust myself to not screw up and scratch something deep.

Would wetsanding be pretty effective of getting rid of minor/mild overspray rough spots? I would think that overspray should come off easier than anything else since its on top of the paint. Maybe even a good rubbing compound would do that?
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Old 07-30-2006, 09:58 PM
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If it's a metalic you'll need to clearcoat it as the sanding and buffing will disturb the metalics, if it's a solid color there's really no problem sanding and buffing once you learn the process. Make sure you've got three-four coats of paint on the car, two coats will be really risky and might not leave enough paint on the car after buffing for good durability.
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