what about these 350 parts? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Hotrodding Basics
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2013, 02:08 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austria
Posts: 85
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
what about these 350 parts?

hey guys,

i have an L98 block here that i'm building with AFR 195s and a MiniRam as a topend. my engine builder has a slightly used set of Chevy Performance nodular crank, Manley I-beam rods and Diamond 23 forged, slightly domed pistons that he just found on his attic and are supposedly 10 years old, out of a wrecked car he built the motor for back then.
I was looking into this to replace the L98 rotating assembly. I was thinking this would be good to about 450-500hp and 7krpm? drivetrain is gonna be a T56 and 3.73 or 4.10 out back in a 3rdgen F.

one problem with the pistons, i can't find any info on them since they are that old and i can't find anything with that part number, it just says DRP 23 and p/n seems to be 23471. the one piston i have for measurements is 501g and rings seem to be 1/16, 1/16, 3/16. i measured them at the skirt at 4.020 and compression height seems to be 1.26, so i'm guessing that would be for a 6" rod?

they are slightley domed but i don't know how i would go about finding out their cc since my engine is currently stock bore 4.000 and i'd like to know before making a decision about buying them and overboring the block.
anyone has advice for me there?

Thanks in advance!
Best regards from Austria

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2013, 06:00 AM
BigMo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tennessee, near Smokey Mtns.
Posts: 166
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
350 Parts......

I have an old Diamond catalog I think, will see if that number is listed. Sounds alot like a smallblock Im putting together for someone here local. Except using a Scat crank, H-beams, SpeedPro forged flats, roller cam, block fully prepped, and the best part.....AFR 195's w comp. porting
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2013, 06:32 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austria
Posts: 85
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hey BigMo, that'd be great if you could try to dig up that number. As said it's supposedly a piston out of their 23 street/strip line which they are still offering today, just no luck with that PN. oh and there's also no overbore indicated as a stamp.

sounds similar indeed. what do you regard to as the block fully prepped? my 195s are like from 10 years ago but barely used. they had a CNC porting job done back then so i'm keeping my fingers crossed they won't be too bad either, plus they had bigger valves installed at some point.
what intake and cam are you gonna be using, or what numbers are you hoping for?

any input on how i can go about determining piston cc without a block to install it to for cc-ing?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2013, 07:35 AM
BigMo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Tennessee, near Smokey Mtns.
Posts: 166
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts
350 stuff........

Hey there.....block has been line honed, zero decked using a Blok-Tru fixture, bored and honed w deck plates, oil passages enlarged at the filter pad, oil return holes enlarged at the front of the block, gallery plugs threaded and plugs installed, main cap studs, drain back holes in lifter gallery threaded and vents installed, interior painted w glyptal......thats about it i think.....

cc pistons w/o a bore to put them in......hmmmmm.....piece of pvc with some grease to seal the bore to the piston, set at 1 inch down, use some solvent or similar for measurement. You can calculate what its supposed to be with a flat piston, subtract that from the piston w dome measurement and there you go......may not be absolutely perfect but will give a ballpark number
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2013, 11:54 AM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 7,702
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 309
Thanked 741 Times in 712 Posts
AFR 195s are a good starting spot. You can build something to fit most needs with them.They make good power,what are you thinking.?
I wouldnt build an engine around used pistons,generally speaking
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 03-06-2013, 12:47 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: The Motor City
Posts: 246
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts
chevy parts

Vinnie beat me to the punch...again! I wouldn't build an engine around a used crank and pistons, especially one that you have little information on. Summit sells rotating assembly kits fairly reasonable...and you'll know exactly what you have. Honestly, an entire SCAT crank, rods, pistons and rings for around $850.00. ...Summit has there own kit with crank, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, timing chain and gears, and complete gasket set for $600.00. I personally would rather spend a little extra money to have new and know exactly what you are putting in your engine. Besides, if there are issues, Summit will back their product. But...thats just my personal opinion
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2013, 02:05 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austria
Posts: 85
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BigMo, thanks for the block prep info, gives me something to think about concerning my build foundation.

speaking of build foundation, one of the reason i was considering my engine builder's offer for his used parts is the fact that by the time a new rotating assembly gets here (read: Austria) it's about 30-50% more expensive than the summit price, with shipping and customs. the used parts are actually quite a steal for a local deal, i think.
he's a guy to trust, with a pretty good reputation in the local US-car scene. i was about to pick up a used stock LT1 rotating assy from him but then he ended up not even having that LT1 stuff but instead some nice go-fast parts that'd prolly fit nicely for "just" double the price i was guestimating for the stock LT1 stuff

so long story short, i'm trying to put together a relatively hot small block on a budget. the block is used, the heads are used, the intake is used, .. so why not go on with the used-but-good philosophy if i can find local deals. i really understand that for some people this is not an option though, but to each their own right? i really get your point but as said for me any stuff being local really is a huge advantage.

for cc'ing, i just bought some play-doh to mess with. i'm gonna try making a negative mold of the piston top and then cc that like you would for a piston dish/reliefs or a combustion chamber.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2013, 02:17 PM
vinniekq2's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: BC,Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 7,702
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 309
Thanked 741 Times in 712 Posts
figure out the CR with your heads and make sure the gasoline you have there works,then pick your cam.Buy the cam new,unless its a roller.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2013, 02:26 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austria
Posts: 85
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
thanks for your advice. builder said he usually goes for a DCR of about 8.75 which seems a lil high to me, i'm gonna shoot for something like 8.25-8.5. standard gasoline here is "super 95" which has 95 RON (research octane number), i think it corresponds to about 91-92 AKI (RON+MON/2). maybe he was talking higher grade like super 98 tho, which is more expensive at the pump by quite a bit.
anyways i'm gonna go back and make that calculation after i measured this piston here.. sux to have no info about the piston cc and no block with the right bore to put it in for cc-ing

i was thinking that measuring rod length and piston compression height should get me a ballpark number for the piston-down-the-hole figure with stock deck height. then with piston top volume i can finally go about calculating CR

ah yeah btw the cam i had in mind with the LT1 rotating assembly was a - used - roller XR276 (this one to be exact) that i already have now, but with the higher CR and capability for revvin with that other rotating assembly, i might change..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2013, 02:57 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: The Motor City
Posts: 246
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 10
Thanked 30 Times in 30 Posts
350 parts

Sorry bro, didn't notice the Austria part. I guess I'm used to the U.S. where the parts for engines like that are laying around in everyones garage...never considered the difficulty of getting them in another country. My mistake. I'd be happy to assist with whatever you have available to you to get a great build on a budget. Vinnie is a good one for build advice and can steer you in the right direction. Anyway I can help let me know.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2013, 03:07 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austria
Posts: 85
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
hehe, no offense taken thanks in advance, i appreciate any and all input!

btw this is the crankshaft (identified by p/n on it), just needs a micropolish and should be good to go:
Chevrolet Performance Cast Nodular Iron Crankshafts 14088526
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 03-07-2013, 05:12 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austria
Posts: 85
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
so i did some piston cc'ing... seems the dome is about 9cc and the valve reliefs about 6cc, so -4cc piston dish volume; gives me a 11.13:1 with a Felpro 1094 HG and 0.025 deck clearance. quench would be 0.040, no heads or deck milling assuming deck clearance would be the usual 0.025 .. should be nice! what do you think?

the united engine/KB calculator tells me that should come out at a 8.75:1 DCR, too. anyone of you have another recommendation for a DCR calculator i could try? i have IVC cam timing for 0.006 only and this calculator wants the 0.050 IVC +15 degrees..

thanks in advance!

edit:
prolly these rods but there's no p/n on them so more of a guess there. and i haven't measured their true length but i just based it off the pistons compression height. need to go back tomorrow to measure: Manley Sportmaster Steel Connecting Rods

Last edited by janus; 03-07-2013 at 05:22 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2013, 08:24 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austria
Posts: 85
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ttt, anyone got some more input on this?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2013, 04:11 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Austria
Posts: 85
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigMo View Post
drain back holes in lifter gallery threaded and vents installed
what's that procedure, i never heard of that? why and how..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2013, 06:44 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Corinth, MS
Posts: 596
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 26 Times in 25 Posts
Here is a link to an article that has a link to a calculator towards the end of a nice read. Good luck!
ssmonty
Dynamic CR
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Hotrodding Basics posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
350 parts suggestions cutthroatkid Hotrodding Basics 2 11-01-2009 08:09 AM
TH 350 hard parts jeepers creepers Transmission - Rearend 7 04-08-2009 10:27 AM
sbc 350 parts gabledawg Engine 3 03-05-2003 06:15 PM
305 parts in a 350 85 regal Engine 0 12-13-2002 09:41 PM
305\350 PARTS Smokeytires Engine 2 09-07-2002 06:21 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.