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Quote:
I'd get a 300-500 g body and spend the 1100.oo for a 9" and still not be anywhere near the by in. on a rotted mess of a 1st gen.. 3rd gen f boadys are not all that heavy after you take all the b/s out.. and are still cheap.. even b bodys are 33oo-3400 lb once you remove all the junk a drag car doesn't need.. the 1st gen are great drag cars, but the down fall now is the cost to get one.. the fox body fords,, are cheaper.. (I'm a g.m. guy) and if you don't want a rustang, a farmont/tbird/ltdII/etc fit the bill.. |
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i meant either or----if you can't find a cheap 1st gen, then you can probably find a cheap 2nd gen and it already has the 8.5" 10 bolt which really doesn't need any work---maybe a change of gears though.
RE: the g,b, and 3rd gen f bodies: i didn't know you could get a ford 9" for $1000? Now what you could do is find a 8.5, 8.6 10 bolt or 12 bolt from a salvage yard and just adapt it to the car----weld on the new mounts to match the old rear. It may be wider than stock----in that case use fender flares or wheels with negative offset. |
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Sorry- can't seem to help it - my smart(donkey) side comes out again
The best bracket car would be one that is fully consistent, run after run after run Therefore I'd submit that a 1969 Chevrolet Brookwood Wagon with the small 6 and an automatic, with air cond, power windows, locks etc would be incapable of any wheelspin whatever and should run a consistent 37 second pass, time after time after time...... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Yeah, i know ![]() Ok I'll go to my room now
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i would agree, but let's assume the potential racer would want to either quickly or eventually race in bracket 1 (formerly known as pro and super pro---i think we should revert to those categories......)
In that case i think either a trans-camaro, nova (and clones) or chevelle/monte carlo would be the best move overall in terms of initial costs. |
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