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Old 06-16-2009, 07:25 PM
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what is best method for removing rust from the entire car

i was getting a sandblaster but then found out its pretty much a no go for my exterior so im just gonna use a standard sander i want to clean up all the body and all of the interior metal. for the interior i was told to use one of those wire brushed drill tops . but what about the small areas? im working on my 74 nova. what can i use to get rust out of those small areas? but then again a sandblaster would work great for my bumpers right? i dont want to have to manually sand this thing forever lol. what chemicals and grinding tools are out there for my situation? ive heard very pleasent things about por15

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Old 06-16-2009, 11:14 PM
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I ain't so sure about the wire wheel thing. I tried that once and fuggedaboutit, a piece of sandpaper in hand was better. You try any strippers? NOT that kind! I done my ride with stripper, 60 and 80 grit, scotch brite type scuff pads (3" velcro), block, sander, and, the wire wheel that would take a month of Sundays. I tried three of them, cup, flat stiff wire and not. Let me tell you, and not. Good old fashioned elbow grease seems to be the ticket. No shortcuts, and be wary of the chemical thing other than stripper. Or, you will learn how to re-sand what you already sanded before you do get to do anything else.
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Old 06-17-2009, 05:15 AM
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the best way is to have it acid dipped
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Old 06-17-2009, 07:24 AM
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Unless you are near a place to do a dip, you best method is a combination of processes.

Personally I have have just sandblasted the whole car in the past. Today I would use 80 grit Norton hook loop paper for the flat areas to remove the painted surfaces. This is based on the comments of several shops that tried all different methods and they all have found the sanding to be the most economical in time and money. The shops were specific in specifying the Norton hook and loop 80 grit paper in their larger sanders. I have not had the opportunity to try this method, yet.

For any pitted rust areas, as opposed to surface rust, I would only media blast with sand or black beauty. This can be safely and effectively done at 40 lb pressure with a pressure tank blaster (not siphon). It is important to minimize the amount of media in the air stream, do not blast with the media valve wide open. I have safely stripped 4 whole cars with sandblasting and I was unable to warp a panel with my set up. Yes, even tried to warp a panel at one point.

A third option for smaller parts is electro chemical or chemical removal. Look up electrolytic rust removal and molasses rust removal. These are very environmentally friendly and effective, but they take time.
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Old 06-17-2009, 11:04 AM
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..........moto-tool... for small places...........
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Old 06-17-2009, 03:58 PM
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A sandblaster works great for most of the body and is by far the best bet for those tight hard to reach places, these can be blasted with no worry about warping. DON'T attempt to blast unsupported flat panels however, doors, hood, truck lid or the roof can be destroyed by sand. I would not even think about doing a major rust repair without using a sandblaster since it is the easiest method and will completely remove the rust right down to the bottoms of the pits, the large open panels that can not be blasted are the easiest to do by other means anyway.



Another thing is you should use one of the safe blasting media and never use silica sand (play sand for example) because this stuff can cut your life short and it does not take a lot to do it! Even using a good respirator still means exposing others, your family, neighbors even your pets could suffer harm from this stuff-just think of it as breathing crushed glass.
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Old 08-01-2009, 07:41 PM
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i use muriated acid in a spray bottle for the rust pits just spray it on itll turn green then wire brush it a little and repeat till its gone it works awesome you can actually be really lazy and just spray some more on about every 20 minutes without wire brushing the rust and itll disappear just the same but youll use more acid
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Old 08-01-2009, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarrettandroski
i use muriated acid in a spray bottle for the rust pits just spray it on itll turn green then wire brush it a little and repeat till its gone it works awesome you can actually be really lazy and just spray some more on about every 20 minutes without wire brushing the rust and itll disappear just the same but youll use more acid


Since this has already been discussed at length here I would suggest you do a search regarding Muriatic acid (also known as HYDROCHLORIC acid!) on sheetmetal before you spray any more of that stuff on your car, the rust is not the only thing that is going to disapear! You may think it works really great now but you are starting a chemical reaction that will eventually destroy your metal! Think about it, if it works so well why is it not used for rust removal? Muriatic acid has been around for hundreds of years and it's properties are well known so if it was safe to use for this purpose it would be commonly done but it is not, why not? Once the metal is contaminated with that stuff it is extremely hard to remove and it is not, as some seem to think, easy to neutralize and it WILL come back to haunt you. DON"T spray anymore of it on your metal and make up some baking soda/water solution to rinse down the areas you have already done and hope for the best.
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Old 08-02-2009, 02:14 AM
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Personally I would have the car soda blasted, it can remove mild surface rust and remove all of the paint with no prob, They can also blast the insides of the car with no prob.
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Old 08-02-2009, 06:24 AM
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i can warp a panel with 20lbs of pressure . don't believe me bring me your car.
muriatic acid is for cleaning pools not sheet metal. NEVER put it on sheet metal or any metal.
sand all your flats and use a small blaster on jambs and such but use starblast or some other blast media. sand is not good for sheet metal. it promotes flash rush.
your getting some bad info here , you need to do a search and get it right.
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Old 08-02-2009, 07:51 AM
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Soda blasting has my vote as well. A lot of body shops use it since its environmentaly friendly.
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:32 AM
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most shops will not paint a car that has been soda blasted because of the risk of poor adhesion. plus you still have to develop an anchor pattern. do you do soada blasting for a living ?
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Old 08-02-2009, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
A sandblaster works great for most of the body and is by far the best bet for those tight hard to reach places, these can be blasted with no worry about warping. DON'T attempt to blast unsupported flat panels however, doors, hood, truck lid or the roof can be destroyed by sand. I would not even think about doing a major rust repair without using a sandblaster since it is the easiest method and will completely remove the rust right down to the bottoms of the pits, the large open panels that can not be blasted are the easiest to do by other means anyway.



Another thing is you should use one of the safe blasting media and never use silica sand (play sand for example) because this stuff can cut your life short and it does not take a lot to do it! Even using a good respirator still means exposing others, your family, neighbors even your pets could suffer harm from this stuff-just think of it as breathing crushed glass.


[EDIT] I just noticed I said "a sandblaster works great for MOST of the body" That should have been for SOME of the body, such as door jambs and tight areas, but certainly not most of the body.
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:02 AM
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i blast entire bodies inside and out . but you have to be careful and know what your doing. blasting a vette will give you the puckers
for diy i would sand all i could and use a small spot blaster for jambs and such.
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Old 08-02-2009, 12:31 PM
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This has been hashed over too many times, it usually ends with p.o.ed members, I'm closing it down before it goes into more of a pissing match. There's a ton of discussion and a wiki, read them please.
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