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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2012, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
But the BEST way would be to seperate the two pieces clean them and epoxy the two pieces then put them back together...It's a lot more work than most are willing to do or pay for so it rarely gets done...I did make a skin seperating tool that allows you to unfold the lips of a skin without distorting the outer skin...Its a pretty simple tool to make, if anyones interested...

I was thinking of doing this with my doors.
I did my decklid this way. Easy way to get the repairs done. The disassemly and reassembly time was worth it in the end.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2012, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
But the BEST way would be to seperate the two pieces clean them and epoxy the two pieces then put them back together...It's a lot more work than most are willing to do or pay for so it rarely gets done...I did make a skin seperating tool that allows you to unfold the lips of a skin without distorting the outer skin...Its a pretty simple tool to make, if anyones interested...
Oh HELL YES I want to see this tool! I have seen some that are sold but want to see how you made it. Please, please, pretty please?

Brian
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2012, 03:45 PM
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Funny thing today.I was cutting up my doors today to make way for the one piece glass,eliminating the vent window and getting the electric regulators set up and noticed how nasty my own doors are and how would I do them,thinking of this thread...Theres just no way I will use the Ospho without at least cutting out the inner shell as far as possible to get the grinder wheels in and clean it up first .No way....I wont be seperating the skin because I want this on the road ASAP but something has to be done so I'll be cutting the inner door out cleaning it up and after its epoxied I'll weld it back on...I figure 6-8 hrs per door to do it...and later on if I want ,I can seperate the skin and not have to do all this so the job should go very fast...I'll post some pics of the whole process when I get started ,which should be in the next couple days....
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Old 06-17-2012, 04:06 PM
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I got the idea when I needed to seperate the mustang deck skin because the outer skin was fine but the bottom of the inner skin was pretty rotted. so I made these and used them,they worked great once I drilled out the spot weld here and there..I've used them on a few other cars also but I didnt know you could just buy a pair or I would have...What they are is a pair of tile nibblers which I sharpend the left side so it would slip between the skin lip, then since the angle is so step it starts lifting the skin right away.On the right side I ground the edge flat then ground a deep groove so it would hold the door edge while lifting the skin holding the tool firmly in place.You work a little at a time until you've gone all the way around ...sorry about the poor quality its the best I could get...
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2012, 05:16 PM
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Dead... you should patent that bad boy.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2012, 08:12 PM
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I don't see why I can't come up with great ideas like that. A buddy of mine was rear ended in his 41 Packard in Daytona Beach at the Turkey Run. He was pulling a tear drop trailer at the time and the impact was so hard it broke the tongue on the trailer a put it right through the deck lid. I had to remove the skin, turn the inner deck lid right side out again and wheel a new lower half of the deck lid skin. Man could I have used that. It never occurred to me to make a tool like that. Way to go Mike. One more reason I love reading this forum.

John L.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2012, 08:15 PM
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What is W&G that you referred to? Wax and grease remover?
I will give the ospho a try and scuff it with a red pad.

Deadbodyman - when you look at your doors and the rust, don't only look at the rust on the inside portion of the skin or the sinside portion of the doorpanel metal. I have rust where the door lock mechanisum goes, where the handle mounts, EVERYWHERE. I cant cut everything out and clean it, it's just not possible.

AND, I have cut pieces out to clean them and put them back in the past. This can be dangerous as you have more chances to warp the sheetmetal when you are welding things back to together. Even when you are careful ***** Happens!

I guess I will just scuff as much as possible with Ospho then spray with epoxy. I will report back and post pictures.

I am taking pictures of everyhting as a move forward, I am just too lazy to host them and upload them.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-17-2012, 08:38 PM
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If you can't get it apart the next best thing is to clean it well and epoxy prime it then spray a "Cavity wax" into the seams. It is the best thing you can use to get in those places where you can't paint.

Brian
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2012, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Racing
What is W&G that you referred to? Wax and grease remover?
I will give the ospho a try and scuff it with a red pad.

Deadbodyman - when you look at your doors and the rust, don't only look at the rust on the inside portion of the skin or the sinside portion of the doorpanel metal. I have rust where the door lock mechanisum goes, where the handle mounts, EVERYWHERE. I cant cut everything out and clean it, it's just not possible.

AND, I have cut pieces out to clean them and put them back in the past. This can be dangerous as you have more chances to warp the sheetmetal when you are welding things back to together. Even when you are careful ***** Happens!

I guess I will just scuff as much as possible with Ospho then spray with epoxy. I will report back and post pictures.

I am taking pictures of everyhting as a move forward, I am just too lazy to host them and upload them.
I think your misunderstanding what were saying to cut out.What you want to cut and remove is the inner door where the interior panel snaps on..if you cut that inner panel and remove it you'll have complete access to the insideof the door and get the all the rust with a wire wheel,except for the lips,then you can get the Ospho applied properly and it'll soak right into the lips since its got a consistancy of water...when its done you just weld the inner door back on..
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2012, 07:28 AM
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By the way Mike, EXCELLENT tool design! I have never seen one like it commercially. The one I saw was like an air chisel that curled under the lip and peeled it up as you went. I really like yours and WILL be making me one. There is a tool company (I think it may be Steck) that takes ideas like that for consideration and will pay for it. You aren't going to get rich but what the hell, you get some tool you have been thinking about or you buy a gallon of primer for your car or something, anything is better than nothing. You should drop them an email and see if they do that.


Brian
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2012, 05:20 PM
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Ahh,it's just something I whipped up,just remember where you saw it first if all of a sudden they're everywhere...mabee I'll post it in the homemade tool site...I see someone liked my rol-loc grinder trick over there (works great with the stripping cookies too,BTW)....I post them for everybody...And listen to Long John (why cant I ever think of something like that) John only made a very impressive (and complicated)slip roller.AND an E wheel....All I did was grind a grove in a pair tile nippers.....
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2012, 05:34 PM
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I almost forgot...Heres what I was talking about when we were talking about cutting the inner door so you can gain accessto the back side of the skin..It just so happens I was doing this today to make installing my power locks and windows..
So I started by marking a line through the middle of the door panel holes but first I drilled them out to 5/16 so I could put a few bolts in the holes ,it makes cutting easier and when it comes to temporily putting it back on to see how everything works before you start welding...when the time comes to weld it back on it'll be exactly where it was before you started cutting..it just makes EVERYTHING much easier...
Once the piece is cut and out you can still see the bolts all you do is slip the piece back in and give the nut a turn to hold it tight....You want to be carefull not to cut the hinge supports...That would be bad...I started cutting at the holes then put some bolts in right awayso the piece would stay in place when all the cutting was done and not fall on the floor or most likely my foot..
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2012, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Ahh,it's just something I whipped up,just remember where you saw it first if all of a sudden they're everywhere...mabee I'll post it in the homemade tool site...I see someone liked my rol-loc grinder trick over there (works great with the stripping cookies too,BTW)....I post them for everybody...And listen to Long John (why cant I ever think of something like that) John only made a very impressive (and complicated)slip roller.AND an E wheel....All I did was grind a grove in a pair tile nippers.....
Hey, I have a really cool slip roll and English Wheel but not because I am clever. Just blessed with good friends. I do appreciate the kind words though.

John L
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2012, 05:29 AM
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Hey, I have a really cool slip roll and English Wheel but not because I am clever. Just blessed with good friends. I do appreciate the kind words though.

John L
Well ,now you have a skinning tool from your good friends.....and I'll have a slip roller when I get some free time.....mabee 2015
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 06-19-2012, 06:32 AM
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You know, on a serious note. It is amazing the available information and ideas that are presented here. The good friends part is pretty cool too.....how long has the cavity wax been around and does it have a track record?

John L
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