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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2012, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Racing
My thread got Hijacked by old man banter!
Deadbodyman is a clever guy and is always willing to give advice and help others out.
I'm not so cleaver, if anything I like to show people if an idiot like me can do something ,anyone can...
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2012, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Mustang Al.
Hi 327.
I have taken your advice and have some more home made tools to post on Home Made Tools website. After signing up i thought i would post some pics but do you think i could find where to start. There are only 4 headings there Home,
Forum, Builders and About. I have looked under all headings and found nowhere there to indicate "Post New Tools" or similar. I have missed something obvious there and posted a question there without a reply so.............any ideas.....
Al.
I know what you mean, the Tools forum is more "seeker" friendly than "submitter" friendly. What I did was to submit the tool on the Forum (click on Forum at the top of the page).

After doing that, Jon posted back that it would be indexed in the Homemade Engine Tools category. There might be another way to do this, but this will work. I hope this helps, don't give up!

Last edited by cobalt327; 06-22-2012 at 04:01 PM.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2012, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
I know what you mean, the Tools forum is more "seeker" friendly than "submitter" friendly. What I did was to submit the tool on the Forum (click on Forum at the top of the page).

After doing that, Jon posted back that it would be indexed in the Homemade Engine Tools category. There might be another way to do this, but this will work. I hope this helps, don't give up!
Hi CB 327
Thanks for your tip. It worked. I just posted the hydraulic jack stands i made a while ago.
I looked at that Homemade Tools page last night but failed to see + POST NEW THREAD It was straight forward once i saw that. It sits
at the top left of the page as you know. I guess i will need thicker glasses afterall.
Cheers
Al.
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Old 06-22-2012, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 67Mustang Al.
Hi CB 327
Thanks for your tip. It worked. I just posted the hydraulic jack stands i made a while ago.
I looked at that Homemade Tools page last night but failed to see + POST NEW THREAD It was straight forward once i saw that. It sits
at the top left of the page as you know. I guess i will need thicker glasses afterall.
Cheers
Al.
That's a clever idea for the jackable jack stands!
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Old 06-22-2012, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
That's a clever idea for the jackable jack stands!
HI CB
Thanks. My head has too many scars on the top from low hanging bolts , exhausts etc. You name it, i,ve hit it, as we all have who slide on creepers. Thats where the idea "HIT me
Al.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-16-2012, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Racing View Post
What is W&G that you referred to? Wax and grease remover?
I will give the ospho a try and scuff it with a red pad.

Deadbodyman - when you look at your doors and the rust, don't only look at the rust on the inside portion of the skin or the sinside portion of the doorpanel metal. I have rust where the door lock mechanisum goes, where the handle mounts, EVERYWHERE. I cant cut everything out and clean it, it's just not possible.

AND, I have cut pieces out to clean them and put them back in the past. This can be dangerous as you have more chances to warp the sheetmetal when you are welding things back to together. Even when you are careful ***** Happens!

I guess I will just scuff as much as possible with Ospho then spray with epoxy. I will report back and post pictures.

I am taking pictures of everyhting as a move forward, I am just too lazy to host them and upload them.
Ospho works best when you use a wire wheel to scrub the rust off keeping it wet and wheel the rust off sometimes you need to let it dry and do it a second time to get all the rust off the red pad is for when thats done,basicly surface rust....Have you tried it yet???? I wanna know what you think...
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2012, 11:59 AM
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I have a question about working with Ospho. I purchased this Ospho two years ago and it has been in the sealed gallon jug it came in (what's left of it). I used the Ospho on my inner doors and experienced a new issue.
I let the Ospho soak for 15mins before hitting it with a wire wheel. When i came out there were lots of white spots or small areas that turned white which almost looked like Aluminum corrosion (aluminum oxide).

I believe this was occuring on the bare metals areas only but I can't be certain.

ANyways, I cleaned everything as much as I wanted to and sprayed a layer of rust preventative primer on the innter door. I'm gonna use my epoxy primer for the outer door areas.

Deadbodyman: I agree with you. Hitting the rusted metal with a wire wheel and the wet Ospho works great. reapplying is often necessary. The problem with this method is you get Ospho spalttered everywhere and if you aren't wearing long sleeve protection and pants you will start to burn and itch
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-18-2012, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Racing View Post
I have a question about working with Ospho. I purchased this Ospho two years ago and it has been in the sealed gallon jug it came in (what's left of it). I used the Ospho on my inner doors and experienced a new issue.
I let the Ospho soak for 15mins before hitting it with a wire wheel. When i came out there were lots of white spots or small areas that turned white which almost looked like Aluminum corrosion (aluminum oxide).

I believe this was occuring on the bare metals areas only but I can't be certain.

ANyways, I cleaned everything as much as I wanted to and sprayed a layer of rust preventative primer on the innter door. I'm gonna use my epoxy primer for the outer door areas.

Deadbodyman: I agree with you. Hitting the rusted metal with a wire wheel and the wet Ospho works great. reapplying is often necessary. The problem with this method is you get Ospho spalttered everywhere and if you aren't wearing long sleeve protection and pants you will start to burn and itch
LOL,wait till you wash you clothes they'll look like they got hit with a shotgun blast...I think you might have gotten some condesation "moisture" in the jug.
I've used it outside and it started raining before it was completely dry and there was white spots where the rain drops hit.I just redid it the next day,no prodlems..If I'm not mistaken you can add water to dilute it for things like prepping galvinized for paint or primer..
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Old 07-18-2012, 03:11 AM
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I removed my inner door skin earlier in this post to install pwr locks and windows.when I tried to use my die grinders to wheel off the rust they wouldnt fit in there due to the curve in the lower skin...I just bought a 3" extended reach cut off wheel at harbor freight to get in there,the wire wheels need some customizing to fit it when I get back on the door I'll post how it all worked and how I did it.I think it'll help some of you..
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2012, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
LOL,wait till you wash you clothes they'll look like they got hit with a shotgun blast...I think you might have gotten some condesation "moisture" in the jug.
I've used it outside and it started raining before it was completely dry and there was white spots where the rain drops hit.I just redid it the next day,no prodlems..If I'm not mistaken you can add water to dilute it for things like prepping galvinized for paint or primer..
I figured that moisutre got in. I never ran into this when i first bought the Ospho.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 07-30-2012, 03:22 AM
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Por15 has a metal prep,I buy it in 4ltr containers,bout $50 but works real well.All I do is fold up a vinyl tarp around door and let it soak for 2 days at a temp of around 20 deg.Once component is removed a quick water blast and instant dry Heatgun/Heater before etch prime and epoxy.Have not had any further rust break through.Hope to help out.Cheers
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