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What is the best method to treat surface rust in doors

35K views 55 replies 14 participants last post by  dodge39 
#1 ·
Hello all,
Haven't been on here in a while. I have been researching about rust treatment, POR15 and silver bullet. I can't conclude what I should do. I need some advice based on my specific situation.

I want to clean up the backside (inside section) of the door skin. What I have done is cut the sheetmetal which would be the Inside piece in the car. This is the metal that the door panel upholstery would mount to.

So now I have easy access to the door skin from the inside. This is where all the water would drain down from the glass. There aren't any holes from the surface, just lots of scaling and surface rust.

What I have done is scrubbed and rubbed all the rusty metal with a Emory cloth. This got rid of alot of the loose rust (came off as dust, my sinusus hated me the next day). There is still some of the surface rust (dust) on the metal but it seems that no matter what I do I cant get rid of it.

I want to treat the metal somehow to protect it and prevent any further rust from starting. Keep in mind that in many spots I can't spray in a uniform manner. And some areas are so tight and ackward that I can't even get a brush.

What do you suggest I do about treating this surface rust? I can take some pictures tomorrow if that helps, but I don't think I could really capture this situation with a picture.

My concern about POR15 is the fact that is needs to be top coated ALSO all the prep work is a major concern. IN those tight spaces and ackward corners I wont be able to really clean the rust with an emory cloth or other prep method.

Rust bullet is another option but I can't find much data on it.

Eastwood has a chemical called Rust Converter. This seems like what I need, but I believe that even requires a top coat of paint.
They also have Rust Encapsulator which looks and cost similar to Rust Rullet but there is even less data on that.

What do you suggest I do. Please only provide facts and base your response on personal experience.

Thank you
 
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#27 ·
I almost forgot...Heres what I was talking about when we were talking about cutting the inner door so you can gain accessto the back side of the skin..It just so happens I was doing this today to make installing my power locks and windows..
So I started by marking a line through the middle of the door panel holes but first I drilled them out to 5/16 so I could put a few bolts in the holes ,it makes cutting easier and when it comes to temporily putting it back on to see how everything works before you start welding...when the time comes to weld it back on it'll be exactly where it was before you started cutting..it just makes EVERYTHING much easier...
Once the piece is cut and out you can still see the bolts all you do is slip the piece back in and give the nut a turn to hold it tight....You want to be carefull not to cut the hinge supports...That would be bad...I started cutting at the holes then put some bolts in right awayso the piece would stay in place when all the cutting was done and not fall on the floor or most likely my foot..
 

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#28 ·
deadbodyman said:
Ahh,it's just something I whipped up,just remember where you saw it first if all of a sudden they're everywhere...mabee I'll post it in the homemade tool site...I see someone liked my rol-loc grinder trick over there (works great with the stripping cookies too,BTW)....I post them for everybody...And listen to Long John (why cant I ever think of something like that) John only made a very impressive (and complicated)slip roller.AND an E wheel....All I did was grind a grove in a pair tile nippers.....
Hey, I have a really cool slip roll and English Wheel but not because I am clever. Just blessed with good friends. I do appreciate the kind words though. :)

John L
 
#31 ·
deadbodyman said:
I almost forgot...Heres what I was talking about when we were talking about cutting the inner door so you can gain accessto the back side of the skin..It just so happens I was doing this today to make installing my power locks and windows..
So I started by marking a line through the middle of the door panel holes but first I drilled them out to 5/16 so I could put a few bolts in the holes ,it makes cutting easier and when it comes to temporily putting it back on to see how everything works before you start welding...when the time comes to weld it back on it'll be exactly where it was before you started cutting..it just makes EVERYTHING much easier...
Once the piece is cut and out you can still see the bolts all you do is slip the piece back in and give the nut a turn to hold it tight....You want to be carefull not to cut the hinge supports...That would be bad...I started cutting at the holes then put some bolts in right awayso the piece would stay in place when all the cutting was done and not fall on the floor or most likely my foot..
I stated in my original post and in other post of this thread that I have cut the sheetmetal that holds the door panel to the door. That is easy, however there are still a bunch of areas that I am not able to clean. Your door is much simpler than my door for some reason???
 
#32 ·
Riot Racing said:
I stated in my original post and in other post of this thread that I have cut the sheetmetal that holds the door panel to the door. That is easy, however there are still a bunch of areas that I am not able to clean. Your door is much simpler than my door for some reason???

Take the skin off and clean both pieces as previous mentioned.

Epoxy prime both halves before reassembly.
 
#33 ·
deadbodyman said:
But the BEST way would be to seperate the two pieces clean them and epoxy the two pieces then put them back together...It's a lot more work than most are willing to do or pay for so it rarely gets done...I did make a skin seperating tool that allows you to unfold the lips of a skin without distorting the outer skin...Its a pretty simple tool to make, if anyones interested...
They sell that tool at Harbor Freight. I used it to remove the skin from a trunk lid, works well. After blasting and epoxy primer I sprayed eastwood heavy duty anti rust then I just hammered the edges back over.
 
#39 ·
Actually, I think the Chinese are getting this stuff from the patent attorneys..the Chinese arnt steeling the patents the patent attornnys probably are.
I went through all of this a while back when I wanted to get a patent for a self connecting trailer .I got the idea from watching my neighbor try to guide his wife to line up the ball with the trailer after 4-5 trys he got all pissedoff ,hoped in the truck and promptly put the trailer hitch through the tailgate...I made all the proper drwings and actually built one .I contacted a company that does everything for you they even build them but in the end they get 98% of everything...I didnt think that was such a good deal so I didnt go for it...I'm now wondering if mabee I should, 2% of something is better than nothing.
 
#40 ·
You can probably buy these hooked screwdrivers somewhere in China but i had these chewed out screwdrivers so i sharpened the ends into a ball point on the bench grinder then heated the ends and quenched in oil. I hate taking tension springs off as they normally fly off or you end up with pinched fingers from pliers. I call them the "hookalls." They are good for yanking out oil seals too.
Al.
 

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#41 ·
I had a friend who tried to market a product called a Threshlock. It locked a door by bringing up a bar across the bottom of a door preventing anyone from kicking it in. Anyway the cost of marketing it, applying for patent, AND INSURANCE almost bankrupt him. The product was too expensive and didn't fly. I am one of those guys who just wants to work hard, get paid on Friday and be able to leave it behind until Monday. It is way to late in my life to think about getting rich.

On the other hand I am rich. Just don't have money. :)

John L
 
#45 ·
Posting tools on Home Made Tools .net

cobalt327 said:
Db and 67Mustang Al. and all you other genius inventer types, it would be cool to see those tools added to Home Made Tools (link also at the top of the page).
Hi 327.
I have taken your advice and have some more home made tools to post on Home Made Tools website. After signing up i thought i would post some pics but do you think i could find where to start. There are only 4 headings there Home,
Forum, Builders and About. I have looked under all headings and found nowhere there to indicate "Post New Tools" or similar. I have missed something obvious there and posted a question there without a reply so.............any ideas.....
Al.
 

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#47 · (Edited)
67Mustang Al. said:
Hi 327.
I have taken your advice and have some more home made tools to post on Home Made Tools website. After signing up i thought i would post some pics but do you think i could find where to start. There are only 4 headings there Home,
Forum, Builders and About. I have looked under all headings and found nowhere there to indicate "Post New Tools" or similar. I have missed something obvious there and posted a question there without a reply so.............any ideas.....
Al.
I know what you mean, the Tools forum is more "seeker" friendly than "submitter" friendly. What I did was to submit the tool on the Forum (click on Forum at the top of the page).

After doing that, Jon posted back that it would be indexed in the Homemade Engine Tools category. There might be another way to do this, but this will work. I hope this helps, don't give up!
 
#48 ·
cobalt327 said:
I know what you mean, the Tools forum is more "seeker" friendly than "submitter" friendly. What I did was to submit the tool on the Forum (click on Forum at the top of the page).

After doing that, Jon posted back that it would be indexed in the Homemade Engine Tools category. There might be another way to do this, but this will work. I hope this helps, don't give up!
Hi CB 327
Thanks for your tip. It worked. I just posted the hydraulic jack stands i made a while ago.
I looked at that Homemade Tools page last night but failed to see + POST NEW THREAD It was straight forward once i saw that. It sits
at the top left of the page as you know. I guess i will need thicker glasses afterall. :thumbup:
Cheers
Al.
 
#49 ·
67Mustang Al. said:
Hi CB 327
Thanks for your tip. It worked. I just posted the hydraulic jack stands i made a while ago.
I looked at that Homemade Tools page last night but failed to see + POST NEW THREAD It was straight forward once i saw that. It sits
at the top left of the page as you know. I guess i will need thicker glasses afterall. :thumbup:
Cheers
Al.
That's a clever idea for the jackable jack stands!
 
#52 ·
I have a question about working with Ospho. I purchased this Ospho two years ago and it has been in the sealed gallon jug it came in (what's left of it). I used the Ospho on my inner doors and experienced a new issue.
I let the Ospho soak for 15mins before hitting it with a wire wheel. When i came out there were lots of white spots or small areas that turned white which almost looked like Aluminum corrosion (aluminum oxide).

I believe this was occuring on the bare metals areas only but I can't be certain.

ANyways, I cleaned everything as much as I wanted to and sprayed a layer of rust preventative primer on the innter door. I'm gonna use my epoxy primer for the outer door areas.

Deadbodyman: I agree with you. Hitting the rusted metal with a wire wheel and the wet Ospho works great. reapplying is often necessary. The problem with this method is you get Ospho spalttered everywhere and if you aren't wearing long sleeve protection and pants you will start to burn and itch
 
#53 ·
LOL,wait till you wash you clothes they'll look like they got hit with a shotgun blast...I think you might have gotten some condesation "moisture" in the jug.
I've used it outside and it started raining before it was completely dry and there was white spots where the rain drops hit.I just redid it the next day,no prodlems..If I'm not mistaken you can add water to dilute it for things like prepping galvinized for paint or primer..
 
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