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Old 05-14-2011, 10:18 PM
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what are best surface rust removal methods

Ihave found out the hard way that primer is not really a metal surface protector. Now I have a bunch of small spots of rust. Help please

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Old 05-14-2011, 10:38 PM
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Err, primer should be the best surface protector! What did you use, Krylon or something?

But a little sandpaper takes surface rust off.
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mongo 40
Ihave found out the hard way that primer is not really a metal surface protector. Now I have a bunch of small spots of rust. Help please
it's probably just flash rust, but if it were my project I'd take all the primer off and hit the metal with my wire wheel on an angle grinder. I treat my metal with a zinc phosphate spray. It removes corrosion and leaves a light gray zinc coating on the metal that keeps it from flash rusting. It also etches the metal. As long as I have the zinc phosphate on it, I keep the metal bare. My roof and doors have been bare for several months now with no flash rust.

I'm not a professional body guy like some of the other posters here are.
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Old 05-15-2011, 04:18 AM
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primer is not a metal surface protector, remove the rust aggressively with a grinder, ensure its rusting from outside in rather than inside out. anyway use a grinder and acid etch prime, this will seal it, then repair grinder marks then re etch prime followed by 2k primer.
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:59 AM
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regular primer isn't a protector.....epoxy primer is.

what are you trying to do here? just seal the metal up or have you done bodywork to them also? starting to do bodywork?
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:34 AM
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sand that mess off with 80 grit and give a double coat of SPI epoxy primer.
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Old 05-18-2011, 09:16 PM
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My project is 66 restomod Mustang. The body is all primer just to make it one color, and some areas were taken down to bare steel. The vehicle has been outside for about a year, waiting to scrap up the funds to blow it apart and paint it.
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Old 05-19-2011, 09:51 AM
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Im in the same boat stripping down a car that had Bondo cracking. When I grind down the bondo I noticed small black spots in the metal. To be safe I grinded out the dark spot (rust?) used zinc phosphate spray that I had from a Por 15 kit I had a few years back, applied Epoxy Primer and then filled with Polyester filler again where needed.

I noticed on the spray kit it stated to was with water after applying the spray. If I do is it important to keep the water off of the pre-existing bondo that Im not stripping down?
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:04 AM
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surface rust

Metal Prep (phosphoric acid) is good at wiping off surface rust. Don't let the word "acid" scare you because you drink some phosphoric acid every time you chug-a-lug a coke. Phosphoric acid converts rust into ferric phosphate which is similar to Parkerizing.

Last edited by MouseFink; 05-19-2011 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 05-19-2011, 11:46 AM
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Here is a good link: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Rust

67 ElCamino. it is important to clean the acid after treatment, it is probably the reason your bondo is lifting.
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Old 05-19-2011, 02:42 PM
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primer.

Hi,i sanded my 48 Ford coupe back to bare metal almost 5 years ago,i sprayed 3 coats of Dupont DP-90 on it,its inside a metal garage, sometimes the car is damp in the mornings,there is NO RUST ISSUES on the car,its dirty,but otherwise looks like i just sprayed it.
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Old 05-19-2011, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MouseFink
Metal Prep (phosphoric acid) is good at wiping off surface rust. Don't let the word "acid" scare you because you drink some phosphoric acid every time you chug-a-lug a coke. Phosphoric acid converts rust into ferric phosphate which is similar to Parkerizing.
POR15 metal prep is zinc phosphate, not phosphoric acid. They are not the same thing.
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Old 05-20-2011, 05:54 AM
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Metal Prep

Por15 is not the only brand of metal prep sold. "Metal prep" is the generic name of a variety of phosphoric acid rust converters that convert rust into a black substance called ferric phosphate. I don't know anything about POR15 and have never used it as a rust converter.

The product I am referring to can be purchased in most auto parts stores or in stores that sell auto body and paint supplies.

Last edited by MouseFink; 05-20-2011 at 06:11 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 05-20-2011, 09:14 AM
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The metal prep in discussion was POR's metal prep. In the post you addressed, he was using a POR product, but he even said it was a zinc phosphate product in that post too. If you weren't referring to his post, then nevermind.

//edit: Nevermind, I see you were just making a general comment adding to the discussion. In that case yes you would be correct, most metal preps are phosphoric acid based.
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Old 05-20-2011, 05:03 PM
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Are we talking about POR 15's "metal ready" ? That's what I use per the instructions and it actually flash rusts a part fresh out of the sand blaster in 15 minutes like crazy! What gives, what am I missing?
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