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Old 09-10-2011, 11:07 AM
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What Cam?

I was looking to get a cam for my 305 sbc preferably a Lunati Voodoo cam and I wanted to know if anyone had any advice on what kind of cam to get. I don't want to hear the book definition of contacting the manufacturer and giving them all the info on your vehicle because that's just not what I want to hear. The engine is completely stock besides the headers on it.

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Old 09-10-2011, 11:17 AM
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Lun-60100lk
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:20 AM
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I've looked at this one before. But I also want one that has a good idle to it but nothing ungodly choppy.
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Old 09-10-2011, 11:50 AM
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You`ve already been suggested the only cam you can use in a stock 305. First off, a 305 is not a 350. 45 cubic inch difference is alot. A 305 has a tiny bore of 3.736 and a stroke the same as the 350 at 3.480. It can`t breathe real well with such a small bore. The ports have to be kept small for high velocity so it`ll have some low end torque to get the vehicle moving without installed 4.56 gears. The cam choice in a stock 305 is very critical, because if the cam is just slightly too big it kills off all the low end power making it a turd that you will not like to drive. When the cam size goes up, the compression, head flow, exhaust flow all has to go up with it so it all works together as a team to make max power. When you try to install one part to do the work of the team it don`t work.
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Old 09-10-2011, 07:37 PM
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So if I get this one what kind of gains would I expect to see?
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Old 09-10-2011, 09:02 PM
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A 305 sucks. The 305 in my truck was 145hp stock 4bbl . the yard had a set of 906 vortec heads 1.94 valves, and series 2 v6 gm beehives with retainers. Part of a 300 deal. Suxxit headers fit nice, melling .420/.442 cam , oem HEI, topped with Vortec Perfrmr intake and Qjet with ruggles mod. Self ported everything. 300 for a 3.73 gear swap with 28" tires on a 8.5 rear diff. Stock stall 1800rpm, and dual dynomax ST 2.25 pipe dumps before rw.

A 305 is not the engine for a big vehicle, go 350. The short block was fresh on my truck, so in went the parts for convience. When the economy returns , they will be on 350.
.
The stock truck run was 18.8 sec , now it will do a high 15.9s . For clowning it can spin the tires hard, cruise 2800rpm in lockup at 65mph cruise control and a/c on.
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Last edited by spinn; 09-10-2011 at 09:09 PM.
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Old 09-10-2011, 10:07 PM
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I'd like to keep the 305 mainly because everybody and their brother has a 350. I'm not looking to race anyone or have it built like a brick **** house. I'm just looking for it to have a nice sounding idle and to be able to spin the tires on dry pavement. Which it can't do at the moment.
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Old 09-11-2011, 02:04 AM
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Since everybody and there mother has a 350. Go 327. Get a Vortec 350 block, a one to two piece seal adapter and throw a 307 crank in, instant 327.
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Old 09-11-2011, 05:04 AM
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Check out the 270/470 comp. Magnum
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:42 AM
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Everyone and their brother also has electricity and running water in the house. And for a good reason.

makes no sense to build anything under 350 cids.
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Old 09-11-2011, 08:46 AM
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My dad threw away the 327 block he had just sitting in our garage a couple years ago and never told me that he did that. Otherwise I'd be all over a 327, but I have a limited budget and the comp magnum is kind of out of my price range. Like I said before I'm not looking to build the engine I just want to make it a little bit better and for it to sound good.
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Old 09-11-2011, 06:48 PM
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Ok how about an Elgin e922m it's a 288/298 443/465 cam and lifters $89.95 or call them at 800 233 0199 and tell them what you want they will help you. Even though 305s suck they can still be fun.
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Old 09-11-2011, 07:36 PM
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I'll be sure to call them tomorrow.
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:10 AM
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What do you have against asking the cam manufacturers for a recommendation- you should at least see what they have to offer. Doesn't mean you have to buy what they say, but at least you'd have something to go by besides the forum's interpretation of what you need.

If you don't have headers, you aren't gonna get any real idle out of whatever cam you put in it- unless you over cam it. If you over cam it you will hate even looking at it let alone driving it. It will be a stone dog, gas mileage will suck and you will get passed by a VW w/a miss.

A large part of a build is breathing. Besides the aforementioned headers, you need a true dual exhaust w/an H pipe connecting the two sides aft of the collectors and before the mufflers. Mount the muffs as far aft as is practical.

If this is a carbed engine, it needs to be a 4-bbl. If it's TBI or EFI in general you have to take the ECM into consideration. Hopefully it has a good Q-jet. That alone will help boost the bottom end response.

The timing curve will need to be modified to match the rest, and even now- the way it sits- setting the distributor up w/a correct curve will likely give you as much power gain as anything else you do.

Depending on the engine's origin, it may well have 1.72" x 1.5" valves- this will keep the port velocity high but will choke the engine before a cam of any real size can get up to the RPM range where it can start making good power. This is another reason cam selection for a 305 is so critical.

You might want to advise the board of what the engine is in, whether emissions are an issue, what the rear gears are, what tranny, etc.
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Old 09-12-2011, 07:11 AM
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$90 + $7 shipping from summit racing.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-K1102/

You can get more off idle throttle response (to spin tires) if you run more initial timing then reduce the amount of mechanical advance to account for more initial.

1) 15 to 20 degrees mechanical at idle (without vacuum advance connected)
2) plus 10 more from the vacuum advance (get an adjustable advance canister) connected to a manifold source. so it should idle between 25 and 30 degrees of timing.
3) then limit total mechanical advance to 38. (without vacuum advance)

should get around 48 total with the vacuum advance connected and revving up in park to 4000 rpms.
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