What is the correct way to sand this arch? 1941 chevy firewall.. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2013, 08:04 PM
jsm1847's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: TX
Posts: 154
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 6 Times in 2 Posts
What is the correct way to sand this arch? 1941 chevy firewall..

Hey guys,
So I'm finally blocking my firewall after a dang year..
There is the pesky arch thingy that I want to sand in. I do have a small flexible foam pad and working it that way, but what is the best way?
I am also having issues with a small work space and a block. Do I NEED to take all residual paint off for the best possible way?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	photo.JPG
Views:	117
Size:	1.27 MB
ID:	76291  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:02 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: cranston RI
Age: 46
Posts: 496
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 62 Times in 52 Posts
Not sure exactly what area that you are reffering to (arch) but what I find to work good in those tight areas is those small 3M squeeges, just wrap sticky paper around them and use as a block that way. Another thing that does work good is a bondo spreader with sticky paper wrapped around it to get into those tight corners. Hope this helps.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:20 PM
jsm1847's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: TX
Posts: 154
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 6 Times in 2 Posts
Thanks for the reply. Sorry for not being clear, I'm referring to where the distributor sits.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:37 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: cranston RI
Age: 46
Posts: 496
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 6
Thanked 62 Times in 52 Posts
Yeah I am seeing it now, what you are going to need is something that is half mooned shaped. Such as the hand held end of a 3M sanding block " ( " this type of shape. Even with something like that it can still be tough. I would try the little sqeegee first.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2013, 10:53 PM
jsm1847's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: TX
Posts: 154
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 6 Times in 2 Posts
Oh yeah I've got one. I didn't even think to reverse it! Thanks!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 05:46 AM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 32
Posts: 1,014
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 374
Thanked 259 Times in 219 Posts
A 2-3" da sander works wonders in those tight spots and saves your fingers. They range in price and quality from $25 at HF to $250 for name brands. Best money I ever spent. Just like any other DA, keep it flat and keep it moving

Kelly
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 07:57 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: hesperia ca
Age: 57
Posts: 63
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 11
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
46 chevy truck

So glad to see someone else is building one. When I brought mine home it had to of had 80 lbs of bondo or filler products covering it. Took a brazing tip and a putty knife with a big tarp and proceeded in removing all that wonderful product. Did it outside. Only bad shaped area was the front fenders or damaged area. I striped all the layers of paint on most of the sheet metal. In the engine compartment filled most of the holes with metal plugs, smoothed and sanded and sanded by hand. looks great after tons of hours but rewarding. Did you remove the inside panel to work it? cut a rubber hose for protection on fire wall to keep the sharp edges from my hands
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 07:59 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,229
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,350
Thanked 1,184 Times in 1,044 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsm1847 View Post
Hey guys,
So I'm finally blocking my firewall after a dang year..
There is the pesky arch thingy that I want to sand in. I do have a small flexible foam pad and working it that way, but what is the best way?
I am also having issues with a small work space and a block. Do I NEED to take all residual paint off for the best possible way?
It looks like there is no filler work or anything like that in the "arch" you are referring to, so "blocking" or anything of the sort is un-needed. Get that cheapie DA Kelly mentioned and strip it off to bare metal. A coat of primer and sand it by hand with a foam pad at most, that is all you need.

And for goodness sakes, remove that dip stick and the throttle cable. They only take a couple of minutes to remove and will save you a bunch of time sanding. The dipstick is simply pushed into a hole with a few rubber seals around it. The only thing that holds it in is the bolt that goes thru that bracket you see in the photo that holds the tranny on, that's all that holds it. Pull it up out of the tranny and stuff a rag into the hole while you work on the fire wall, once done you can re-insert it in the trans and run the bolt thru the bracket when the engine is re-installed. For that matter you may want to remove the whole tranny as it is MUCH easier to install the engine and trans as a unit than fight with those bolts. I don't remember how those throttle cables come off but I have to assume it has a lock nut that you simply remove and pull the cable out thru that hole.


Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 10:25 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Portland,Or
Posts: 838
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 43 Times in 37 Posts
I found these abrasive impregnated nylon bristle rotary brushes at ACE Hardware.

They also make cup shaped ones. There is alsoa version with six spokes, or flaps, that would work on wood, or other soft materials, but are not too effective on metal.
They chuck in a drill, and do a pretty good job of removing paint, rust, ETC, down to bare metal.
Grey is a coarse grit, blue is a fine grit, and they also make an orange, medium grit.

They work really good in drip rails, windshield openings, in gutters, and other hard to sand areas.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2013, 05:22 PM
496CHEVY3100's Avatar
Appalachian American
 

Last journal entry: ,
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Appalachia GA
Posts: 832
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 377
Thanked 285 Times in 251 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
A 2-3" da sander works wonders in those tight spots and saves your fingers. They range in price and quality from $25 at HF to $250 for name brands. Best money I ever spent. Just like any other DA, keep it flat and keep it moving

Kelly
\\

Best invention since the wheel ,,also foam buffing pads 2ln and 3 in for final buff works great also
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1941 chevy zellaree Introduce Yourself 2 05-02-2011 03:07 PM
1941 chevy coupe suzy6574 Introduce Yourself 1 07-27-2007 01:24 PM
1941-46 chevy 1/2 ton pu rsachen Introduce Yourself 2 01-24-2006 09:45 PM
1941 Ak Chevy 1/2 Ton Spank Introduce Yourself 3 11-21-2005 09:35 PM
1941 chevy frame help pat-tracy@marshallne Suspension - Brakes - Steering 3 07-31-2004 10:59 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.