what is the criteria for sleeving a cylinder??? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 12-24-2006, 12:07 PM
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what is the criteria for sleeving a cylinder???

this is the 49 flat head....after pulling the heads i found some bad news....my guess is since the intake valve was open water found its way in and froze.....so whaht is the criteria for sleeving a cylinder? thks bob

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Old 12-24-2006, 01:43 PM
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Certainly is a despicable development...but this is how we go about this..stripp the engine down to the block and then off to the machine shop..we then have it boiled out and cleaned and so a magnaflux on it to see just how bad this thing is..

If it passes and the customer really wants to know wwe then sonic check to verify our findings..

If the blockis fixable then we have the sleeve or sleeves as it may be installed..then reassemble the engine..

Major criteria for sleeving an engine is that it be os a rarity or value that makes sense..we seldom sleeve a SBC or SBF as there are lots of those blocks available..

Sam
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Old 12-24-2006, 01:56 PM
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And don't be afraid of a sleeve or sleeved block. When done right there is now power, durability nor strength drawbacks. I had two cylinders sleeved in a 455 Olds with no reservation about putting the gogo peddle through the floor.
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Old 12-24-2006, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
Major criteria for sleeving an engine is that it be os a rarity or value that makes sense..we seldom sleeve a SBC or SBF as there are lots of those blocks available..

Sam
are there lots of flathead blocks still available that are in any better shape?
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Old 12-24-2006, 08:33 PM
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Flat motors are prone to crack valve seats when they over heat. This can be fixed with with hard seats. Sleeves are just as good as the machinist that does them. Bore it out, shrink them in, and you have a good block again.
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Old 12-25-2006, 09:59 AM
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Check with your machine shop, some FH's (Chrysler comes to mind) can take a huge overbore, i/e .10+
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Old 12-25-2006, 11:03 AM
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It is rumored that someone was/is going to make some replacement flathead blocks as they are fairly popular..Just when and where to get one I have not heard yet..

Sam
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Old 12-25-2006, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
It is rumored that someone was/is going to make some replacement flathead blocks as they are fairly popular..Just when and where to get one I have not heard yet..

Sam
Motor City Flathead ( now Motor City Speed Equipment ) will be making them. they were in the prosess of R&D and cad designes when they went out of buisnuess, new owners bought them, and say there going to make them, they don't sell anything just yet, the site is up with lots of info, but there gearing up for sales. costs a lot to have blocks cast, about $200k up front to make a prototype, it's not cheap.
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Old 12-26-2006, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
Motor City Flathead ( now Motor City Speed Equipment ) will be making them. they were in the prosess of R&D and cad designes when they went out of buisnuess, new owners bought them, and say there going to make them, they don't sell anything just yet, the site is up with lots of info, but there gearing up for sales. costs a lot to have blocks cast, about $200k up front to make a prototype, it's not cheap.

thanks guys i will put it in on an engine stand in a couple of days and start coming up with a plan.
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Old 12-26-2006, 08:16 AM
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Generally if it's only one cylinder messed up I sleeve it -- even SBC and SBF. They might be plentiful, but you still have to go out and get another block and strip/check it too. I'd even sleeve two cylinders if everything else is good. Beyond that costs are such that a common block can usually be replaced for less. It all depends on what condition the other salvaged block is in. Junkyard blocks might need a sleeve or two.

Older engines can be bored a lot more than newer ones, and may not require a sleeve to be cleaned up as long as replacement pistons are available in the size needed. New blocks generally don't take much over a 0.060" overbore, and many manufacturers don't recommend over 0.030" for blocks made after the early to mid 80s. Pre 63 blocks can typically be bored up to 0.125" over though. Not all can be bored that much, but they will generally take at least 0.080".

Casting techniques took a big turn around 1963-65, and again in the 78-82 time period. I don't know when other manufacturers changed their engines in the late 70s/early 80s, but AMC changed their six cylinder casting in January 1980 to be a good bit lighter than previous models. The entire engien weighted about 40 pounds less than previous models, but some of that weight was from the crank (12# IIRC, and from replacing a cast iron intake with aluminum (another 8-10#). A few pounds were taken off with toehr things here and there (7/16" instead of 1/2" head bolts saved a few ounces), but that leaves 15-20# from the block casting.
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