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Old 04-10-2009, 04:02 PM
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what degree thermostat in k1500

hey guys what degree thermostat is in k1500, chevy 350 vortec 1997/98

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Old 04-10-2009, 04:07 PM
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you can put what you like in it not sure whats recomended for yours .I like the cooler thermostats.It depends on what you want.i run 160 in my 408.but here read this it might help you decide.http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_tempe...on_a_350_Chevy . cole

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Old 04-10-2009, 04:30 PM
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Don't know what's in it, but use caution changing the 'stat on a computer-controlled system. The computer might not like it much.
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Don't know what's in it, but use caution changing the 'stat on a computer-controlled system. The computer might not like it much.
True very true.techinspector1. cole
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:37 PM
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195!
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:40 PM
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It probably came with a 195, and that is a good healthy stat. Low temp stats (in my opinion) have way too many negative side effects for the tiny HP gains you might see.
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Old 04-10-2009, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by curtis73
It probably came with a 195, and that is a good healthy stat. Low temp stats (in my opinion) have way too many negative side effects for the tiny HP gains you might see.
hey curtis what side effects are you talking about.maybe i need to change mine. cole
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Old 04-11-2009, 12:03 PM
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cool guys thanks, so the 195 should be good and i wont change it, just needed to know to do the CP upgrade.
thanks again, u guys have really helped me and i truly appritiate it!!!!
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
hey curtis what side effects are you talking about.maybe i need to change mine. cole
Increased fuel consumption, increased cylinder wall wear, increased ring wear, increased carbon build up, increased emissions, faster cat plugging, and a few others top the "minor problem" list.

The big issue is the reduced engine oil temps can drastically reduce its ability to evaporate off impurities like water, blowby acids, and all the extra fuel that will be squeezing past the rings.

I'd rather prevent all of the above and give up 3 hp by upping the temps. Engines like to be hot. Drivers like them to be cool. It has been a long-time misconception that reducing the thermostat temps will give you a cooler car, but the truth is, if you're effectively exchanging heat and not boiling the water, then the only thing higher temps do is reduce power by a tiny percentage. Once you get hot enough that it starts nucleate boiling, its all downhill from there
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Don't know what's in it, but use caution changing the 'stat on a computer-controlled system. The computer might not like it much.
Oh how this is true.

Computer controlled vehicles require a high temperature reading to go in, or stay in closed loop. You will notice that the temperature gauge reads 'normal', or with 'graduation marks'. The actual engine running temperatures will frighten you if you could actually see the temperature on a numbered scale gauge.

Most modern vehicles, including his, will require a 195 degree thermostat. This allows the engine to reach optimum operating temperature quickly. Thus allowing for a more clean burn in the cylinders, and cleaner exhaust. Heat builds horsepower, and this is how any engine will perform better at it's designed operating temperature. This is even true in performance engines. The leaner you can run, the more heat that is built up, the better the Air/Fuel atomization is.

The newer vehicles equipped with cooling fans, will not turn the fans on until at least 228 degrees, and the fans will shut off around 210 degrees. By the 'old school' standards this is way too hot, but not so in these days and times.

You also may have noticed that the engines will last longer, and when torn down there is not much of a ridge at the top of the cylinders. This is because the higher temperatures allow for less metal to metal wear.

So think about this, if you tune your engine just to the lean side it will build heat, and horsepower, and you will have less breakdowns from the cylinders and rings.
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Old 04-11-2009, 05:46 PM
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never new that, dagnabit learn stuff from u guys daily!!!!!!
thanks
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:04 PM
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Just for everyone info.

The 1996-99 Vortec 305/350 engines Closed Loop Enable Coolant temperatures are set to 56.25C or 133F. In other words the engines coolant temp must reach 133F in order for teh PCM to enter closed loop and start reading teh O2 sensor outputs.

I have ran a 160 therm since I bought my 97 Vortec 350 truck in1998. Its got over 400,000 kms on it, over 5000 1/4 mile passes and many many controlled acceleration tests.

I do replace the 160 therm sometimes in the Wintertime,as the cabin heats up quicker with hotter coolant circulating through the heater core.

If you are running more agressive timing curves, cooler coolant temps can help stave off detonation. the stock L31 PCM tune doesnt need a cooler therm.
I am interested to pull this engine down once it ceases to function anymore. Knock on wood.

peace
PAuly
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Old 04-13-2009, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteman
195!
Yea I'd go 195 with the Vortec.
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:33 PM
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I have seen first hand the nightmares that can be caused by an incorrect t-stat in newer applications. The Vortec requires a 195*F stat. If you were to drop down to a 160, you may not immediatly notice any issues, other than slightly rich exaughst, and poorer than usual mileage. However, over time, the over fueling will get worse, and it can causes serious internal damage. Pulled down a couple with buggered needles on the roller lifters roller axles due to fuel dilution of the oil over time.
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Old 04-13-2009, 08:37 PM
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Mine called for 195 to 205 But I use 160 in the summer because I do lot of towing a trailer during the summer with AC and It get up to 200 with 160... You can get by with 180 no problem.
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