Originally Posted by John long
Let me ask a question? Would a heavy coat of polyester primer work as well as a skim coat? What would be the advantages or disadvantages of each?
I never used the slick sand but with featherfill, it will take away the waves and turn dings into waves. I just don't rely on it for dings. A part of learning for me was to run my hand on every piece of work and when a few imperfections could slide into round 2 of primering I have always felt how they felt before and after. Doing that will teach you what primer will cover and what it won't. I got the piece of filler nicely blended together with the old filler but I ended up sanding a little more on the back of the quarter and felt the entire back area and the area I worked needs one tight skim. I mean a tight skim where you'll mix it and go , "how and the hell is so little filler gonna coat that big area? So when I go to the store to get some more zero rust I will get some dolphin glaze as well. Upol gold filler + dolphin glaze= the price of the better 3m filler I like using. So If you're good at mixing accurate skim coats you will get your money's worth.
As far as what to prime, I probably should have primed the trunk area before zero rusting. It wasn't stripped so instead of the work being in stripping it, the work was in prepping it nice, and it slipped my mind that zero rust prepping is a cross between prepping for prime AND paint. It has to be prepped one notch cleaner than a prime prep.