Hot Rod Forum banner

The "What Did You Work On Today" thread

3M views 36K replies 388 participants last post by  cerial 
#1 ·
4 hour work day for me at the shop. Used the time to do a valve body swap on a '01 Jetta 1.8t auto .... I successfully installed a transbrake on the car .... that however wasn't my intention.

Its in 2 gears at once in park, all other gears (R/N/D/2/1) are forward gears.... they all seam to be first gear.

I have it torn back down most of the way. Tuesday I'll actually get the VB back out and see whats up.... but part of me wants to take it out for a test drive the way it is just for the fun of it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: drive til its broke
#25,102 ·
I applied my epoxy with a 2" paint brush.:eek::evil:

Once upon a time, there was an old highway that my Pontiac and I enjoyed most of all. Always have said that if a car and a road can love one another, its them two. But to my dismay, in recent years a small pair of ancient bridges had fallen into disrepair as neglect piled up on them over time. They were finally closed, seems like a couple years ago now. I figured it was curtains for the favorite cruise loop and found a second choice that we stuck to since then, but theres no place to stomp it.

Well, I was out in the younger GP this AM. For kicks, I rode out to the old highway. The bridges are fixed. Oh, man! That makes me happy.:) Grape may get excited when we pass the city limit sign once again. Yee-haw!
 
#25,103 ·
Is your compressor going to let you spray the epoxy,,when mine was going bad I guess by passing the rings with small amount of oil,,but enough to make it look like Very Small pieces of sand i thought primer was bad or I didnt get it mixed proper but it was the compressor,,yep strip it back of,,

Just food for thought..
Yeah, I am just doing the inside and I will be adding a filter to the gun too.

Brian
 
  • Like
Reactions: 496CHEVY3100
#25,105 ·
Camaro is fixed. I got the thumbs up of approval from the dear daughter when she backed it out of the shop.

Went over and fired up dad's 57 since it hadn't been run in a while. Hard to start as usual after sitting. I said to myself, Self, ya really need to fix the choke on that Holley. Let it run for a couple of minutes, and it starts blubbering pretty bad, and I can smell gas. Throw the hood up, and the intake is literally swimming with gas. Gas is dripping from all over that carb. Shut it down, dry the intake off, and push it back inside. Guess I'll get that choke fixed now...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
#25,106 ·
I did not waste my day, I worked my ever loving ars off all day long and got the inside of the cab ready for primer! It's coated in osphro metal treatment, it's ready for primer, WHOOO HOOOOO!

It didn't end without a number of welds, it blows me away when I find something like this, glad I did! The mounting point for the steering column was broken. And when I went to weld it (torch) I saw that one area that didn't look cracked was, you see, you could see when it heated that there was a crack with the other side of the crack not heating red. So I welded it, just for fun I heated around the other hole and it had a crack that I hadn't seen too! Wild, glad I did that. Anyway, it's ready for primer prep, WHOOO HOOOO WHOOO HOOOOO!

Brian
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: 123pugsy
#25,107 ·
I did not waste my day, I worked my ever loving ars off all day long and got the inside of the cab ready for primer! It's coated in osphro metal treatment, it's ready for primer, WHOOO HOOOOO!

It didn't end without a number of welds, it blows me away when I find something like this, glad I did! The mounting point for the steering column was broken. And when I went to weld it (torch) I saw that one area that didn't look cracked was, you see, you could see when it heated that there was a crack with the other side of the crack not heating red. So I welded it, just for fun I heated around the other hole and it had a crack that I hadn't seen too! Wild, glad I did that. Anyway, it's ready for primer prep, WHOOO HOOOO WHOOO HOOOOO!

Brian
Understanding that any acid on the surface of the metal will stop the epoxy from curing and effect it's adhesion, how will you treat or remove the Ospho before you prime it?

John
 
#25,108 ·
Worked on the Z-28 with my daughter today. We finished up the brake pad replacement and brake fluid flush. We replaced the serpentine belt and flushed out the power steering, but it's still not right. It still requires a lot of effort to steer while stationary, but works well once rolling. The thread in the steering forum has more info...
I didn't find your other thread. Tight ball joints, and any part of the steering system, tie rods, idler arm, etc can cause hard turning at stop and then less once moving.
 
#25,109 ·
We got it fixed. Turns out that the pump had failed in some type of "stealth mode" I guess. Quiet, no whining, no growling, no rumbling, and evidently no pressure, either. A reman pump and new lines has it working like new again.
I didn't find your other thread. Tight ball joints, and any part of the steering system, tie rods, idler arm, etc can cause hard turning at stop and then less once moving.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
#25,110 ·
Understanding that any acid on the surface of the metal will stop the epoxy from curing and effect it's adhesion, how will you treat or remove the Ospho before you prime it?

John
I am not going to sweat it much, this is all behind the dash and floor. I didn't touch the dash or rear inner panel. It's just in the hidden areas, if it's not perfect I don't care. I will neutralize it with water, sand it and scrub it with scuff pads use wax and grease remover and epoxy prime it, and then forget about it. :D

Brian
 
#25,112 ·
I will neutralize it with water, sand it and scrub it with scuff pads use wax and grease remover and epoxy prime it, and then forget about it. :D

Brian
Mix a little Dawn dish soap with water in a pail and wipe it down with that first, then rinse thoroughly. The Dawn is supposed to break down the phosphoric acid better than just water.
 
#25,113 ·
I have to tell you, I used this on the hidden areas already and primed them without an issue, I did a scratch test, not an issue. I didn't even neutralize it! After reading Deadbodymans thread on it, I just went with how he did it and am finding good results.

Brian
 
  • Like
Reactions: John long
#25,115 ·
I didn't find your other thread. Tight ball joints, and any part of the steering system, tie rods, idler arm, etc can cause hard turning at stop and then less once moving.
what yearZ28 do you have ..i have a 77 Z28 and a 87 and a 97 Z28,,ALL have on the window sticker High Effort power sterring,,i guess to cut down on over steer,,also my 88 silverado has high efort sterrind,,it is harder than any of my others, check the codes on the data sheet,,you can change the spring and plunger where the high pressure line screws in pump parts are avalible across the counter at chevy,,the spring changes tge effort the plunger cganges the volume.
 
#25,116 ·
An excellent video. Worth the time.


Yeah, thanks, I planned on rinsing it off like he did. Funny thing is I didn't do that much on the inside of the cowl and I did a scratch test and it didn't come off! And the fact that there was absolutely NOTHING over the bare metal under the dash from the factory, I am ahead of the game there.



Brian
 
#25,117 ·
what yearZ28 do you have ..i have a 77 Z28 and a 87 and a 97 Z28,,ALL have on the window sticker High Effort power sterring,,i guess to cut down on over steer,,also my 88 silverado has high efort sterrind,,it is harder than any of my others, check the codes on the data sheet,,you can change the spring and plunger where the high pressure line screws in pump parts are avalible across the counter at chevy,,the spring changes tge effort the plunger cganges the volume.

It's a '95 Z-28. That's good information to know about the plunger and spring in the relief valve. I pulled the relief valve out of the old pump before I turned it in and could not see anything obvious wrong. The plunger moved smoothly, and I could see a smaller plunger inside that one, with another spring and a check ball. There is a little screen in there too, and it was clear. This thing went beyond "high effort" while it was sitting on anything rougher than the slick concrete on the garage and not rolling. It was overly stiff, and at one time I was used to driving a manual steering Vega with a small block in it. You didn't turn that one unless you were rolling... I have not driven the Z since I replaced the pump, but my daughter says that the steering effort is easier now than before the pump quit. Seems as though it no longer has the "high effort" option. I liked how it steered before, but I'm not pulling it apart to swap out the plunger and spring... Right now I'm just happy that I got it through the annual safety inspection. Thanks for the info on the parts, though. :thumbup:
 
#25,120 ·
Top